Sitting in the brush, snuggled tight with the ticks, I was failing to entice a tom when a single boar came running forward out of the cedar. Maybe he was hungry, or maybe he identified as a Rio, but a draw, a single shot and a short blood trail later, I had meat on the ground.
I was hunting for a turkey with a shotgun. I shot a pig with a pistol. That pistol was the new Smith & Wesson M&P M2.0 in 10mm.
The S&W M&P is no newcomer. Even the M2.0 version is well proven and has been on the market for years. The pistols are extremely popular in the US, both in the law enforcement and commercial markets.
The 10mm chambering in this pistol is what’s new.
When I first got this gun to review, I was interested, but didn’t think I would be impressed. I was wrong.
Smith & Wesson absolutely nailed the grip and overall user interface of this gun.
Stippled texturing wraps around the entire grip. This is a simple and welcome execution, lacking any particular style, other than that borne of utility. As it’s early springtime here in Texas, I got to shoot this gun in weather ranging from freezing to the mid 80’s. Regardless of the temperature, the length of the string, or whether I had gloves on or not, the shape and texturing of the grip provided a solid surface for control of the gun.
The 10mm M2.0 comes with four different backstraps. The medium-large and large sizes come with additional material on top of the grip to further increase the length of pull, and the medium and small versions leave it off. Installation of any backstrap is simple, accomplished by a twist and pull of the grip removal tool inserted into the base of the grip.
For me, the large backstrap put my hand in the right position, giving just enough length of pull to put the “power crease” of my index finger on the trigger.
That trigger is my only knock against the M&P M2.0 and the 10mm version is the same as it is in any chambering. That is, the factory trigger isn’t great. Breaking at just over five and a half pounds, it’s not particularly heavy. The problem with the trigger is that it’s squishy, with stops and starts until it hits the wall. After that, the break is pretty clean, but it’s kinda ugly getting there. Unlike some other models, trigger overtravel in this particular model is non-adjustable.
There are several aftermarket triggers suitable for the M&P M2.0 series, including one from Apex and a new trigger from Timney. I haven’t shot the Timney version, but I hear good things.
The reversible magazine release is easily reached with a sweep of my shooting hand thumb. Empty magazines absolutely launch from the pistol with any solid pressure on the reversible release button.
The 10mm ships with two well-made 15-round Smith & Wesson branded metal magazines. These are very well done, with angled baseplates and half-moon cutouts at the base of the grip for stripping a stuck magazine.
Fifteen rounds of 10mm is no joke, especially if you’re using the heavier loads. If you’ve had an experience where one, or even several living things are shot with 15 rounds of 10mm and refuse to give up the ghost, you’ve made some very significant mistakes. The good news is there’s a solid chance you won’t make any more of them.
The Smith & Wesson M&P M2.0 includes a classic 3-dot setup. For the M2.0 10mm, Smith & Wesson includes tall sights suitable for co-witnessing an optic.
The M&P M2.0 10mm includes no fewer than seven different optic mounting plates. Using the supplied plates, the user is able to mount the Trijicon RMR, C-More STS, Leupold Delta Point and Delta Point Pro, Docter, Insight MRDS, Nikon Spur, J-Point and the Crimson Trace 1500.
Like all of the full size M&P 2.0 pistols, the slide of the 10mm includes a 1913 rail for mounting lights or lasers, as well as reasonable scalloped texturing in the front and rear of the slide.
Disassembly requires the trigger to be pulled prior to the slide being released from the frame, or you can remove the same frame tool used to change back straps to lower the sear deactivation lever inside the magazine well.
I’ve never seen pulling the trigger to disassemble a pistol as a serious safety concern, as anyone who can’t safely unload a firearm prior to disassembly shouldn’t have a gun in the first place.
Unfortunately, with ammunition availability as it is, I was only able to put 300 commercial rounds through the 10mm M&P. These were 180gr round nosed and flat point FMJs from either Freedom Munitions or Armscor, both running about 1,000fps. The pistol proved completely reliable.
Using the lighter commercial rounds, the S&W M&P M2.0 10mm proved not just reliable, but very easy to shoot. The snappy recoil so many people are
bothered impressed by when it comes to the 10mm cartridge just isn’t there, at least not in this particular pistol. And why would it? These loads are nothing more than .40 S&W +P loads offered by commercial manufacturers.
If you carry a 10mm gun, you might as well shoot 10mm loads.
Reusing the spent cases, I loaded 200gr Hornady FMJ’s behind 7.1gr of CFE Pistol powder for a book listed velocity of just over 1,123fps. I used the same powder and instead loaded it under 220gr Rim Rock flat nosed lead hardcast bullets for a book listed velocity of 983fps. (If anyone knows how Buffalo Bore gets the same bullet moving over 150fps faster, please enlighten me in the comments). These full power loads made up the additional 200 rounds I fired through the gun. Again, no issues with reliability at all.
There’s certainly a difference between felt recoil in the 180 grain rounds and the 220 grain bullets moving at essentially the same speed. Mix those different weight rounds inside the same magazine and you’ll have absolutely no difficulty telling which is which.
At a hair over 29oz, the M&P M2.0 10mm isn’t a heavyweight pistol, but manages the recoil of the stout loads like a more massive firearm. I had several shooters, two of which were relative novices, run full magazines of the 220gr loads in the M&P M2.0 10mm and none of them had any problem managing the pistol. I attribute this to a relatively low bore axis and the overall solid grip geometry.
In terms of precision, the M&P 2.0 10mm scores well enough, but it’s nothing exceptional. I wasn’t surprised to find the hardcast heavyweight rounds scored the best, printing an average of 2.2″ 5-round groups off bags at 25 yards. The 200 grain Hornady round was ballistically great, but printed a full 1″ wider groups. The Armscor round averaged 2.5″, again, as 5-shots of four shot strings at 25 yards.
With that kind of accuracy, taking a pig at 30 yards was no issue, and I’d have no qualms about stepping it out a wee bit further on white-tailed deer.
In today’s market, the $665 MSRP is a great value, and that’s borne out by the fact the guns are selling right about that price (about $650 retail), when you can find one.
It’s particularly nice to see Smith & Wesson put the 10mm back into their premier duty gun. After all, the cartridge itself was first fielded by the FBI in a Smith & Wesson semi-auto.
S&W did great with this gun. I’ve always been a solid “meh” on the M&P semi-autos, but not this one. The M&P M2.0 optics ready slide in 10mm has everything I’d want in a 10mm. It fits the hand well, soaks up recoil for fast follow-up shots with the heaviest loads, includes multiple sight and optics options, and is reliable and precise enough to get the job done.
How much do I like this gun? I sold my Delta Elite and bought this T&E model instead.
Specifications: Smith & Wesson M&P M2.0 10mm Optics Ready Pistol
Caliber: 10mm Auto
Safety: No Thumb Safety
Barrel twist: 1:10˝ – 5 RH
Barrel length: 4.6″ (11.7 cm)
Weight: 29.3 oz.
MSRP: $665 (about $650 retail)
Ratings (out of five stars):
Style and Appearance * * *
Modern utilitarian. The Armornite finish is smooth and even throughout.
Customization * * * *
The M&P 2.0 has been out for a while and it’s well served in the aftermarket. However, with a wide range of included backstraps, suppressor sights, and optics mounts, the only option you might want is a new trigger. The ambi slide lock/release and reversible magazine release is also a nice touch.
Reliability * * * * *
Perfect reliability with mild commercial rounds and top pressure reloads.
Precision * * *
The commercial rounds scored well, and the heavy hardcast scored even better.
Overall * * * *
Smith & Wesson has put out a heck of higher capacity 10mm pistol, and at a surprisingly low cost for what you get. It’s certainly my favorite of the polymer framed 10s. Points off for good, but not exceptional accuracy and the typical M&P trigger.
How does Buffalo Bore work its magic? I’ve wondered that for years.
I like a .44 magnum revolving better. Dont have to look for spent shell casings either.
I too prefer a few of a lot over a lot of a few, if you know what I mean.
Yup. 45colt for me but my 5.5″ 629-2 with nonfluted cylinder and target sights was the first handgunm I ever bought. I tease my buddy about selling it to him.
good for you. the ten has more rounds and faster target acquisition, and faster reload.
Have one in 357sig. Love the thing.
Yay. You and me make the 2 people left on Earth that like the 357Sig.
(raises hand) Make that three.
4 right here in the back.
I like the round bout would honestly rather have a rimless 38 Super in a lot of ways; more mag capacity but more importantly less work to reload since it’s a straight walled case.
That said if I could ever dig up an SW357 parts kit or a barrel I’d be giddy about it.
I have the .40 S&W version (C.O.R.E.) of this with the 4.25″ barrel. I found a 5″ 357 sig threaded barrel for it, but considering the “situation” with no end in sight, I’m not so sure about adding a new caliber that I don’t need.
It’s very neat if you want to launch low grain solid copper rounds through low end 3a armor with some level of reliability with availability far better than 9×25 dillon. Otherwise high end 40 is immediately competitive for cheaper and 357 magnum can be loaded hotter if the revolver is good for it so while I loved playing with the caliber years ago I cant justify spending for it with other options around.
You ain’t pushing 1200fps with a 180 your shooting a 40
The velocities from ball ammo in just about any manufacturer is laughable
Even some HPs like Federal Hydrashok is below 1K so do your research
Underwood is solid as is Buffalo Bore and I really like Steinel hardcast.
Some DoubleTap is decent too.
I’m not sure what you mean. There are quite a few 40SW loads that will push 180 grain bullet at 1,000 ft per second.
That’s exactly what I mean. A 10 should be at 1200. A 40 is at 1K
I’m tired of being shortchanged
Magtech and S&B I think are 1100-1200
Ah.. got it. Thanks
You should look that up on YouTube. They’ve done the work and it’s slow
Will have to check that out. Only have a Glock 40 I can borrow at the moment and been needing to replace the chrono for the better part of a year so YouTube for the stuff I will have to wait on for firsthand data.
Sig Sauer claims 1250 fps from their 10mm.
Adub SIG ammo is pretty good and the velocities are correct and most of the spreads are tight in the HP. I’ve yet to see ball ammo from them I dunno.
JWT, Fort Scott has a 10mm that is pretty effective on hogs; 125 gr at 1600 fps. I enjoy night walks with a Banshee 10mm and Glock 20 on the hip and have tried several mfgs. Standard 180 ball ammo works, of course. If you’re interested in trying something a little different you may want to find a box of the Fort Scott. Heck, they might send you a few if contacted. Thanks for the review on the S&W. I may need to give my LGS a call today.
About the only way to get a gunm partridge to preform up to its standards is to handlude and even then the books are slimming it. Also I’ve noticed the new emu hasn’t the umph of the old emu either.
I think he means putting more powder in casing to make “bangs” more satisfactory. Is 55000 lbs/pressure still the standard for the Highest loadings?
Matt does Corbon still load in the good to slightly hot range or not so much for 10mm?
I agree. I purchased a 4.6″ M&P 10mm, but it won’t function with 200 gr Underwood hard cast. I put a 24lb spring in the gun, but now the mag auto-ejects every 2 or 3 rounds so my research & development continue. Word on the street is that a 20 or 22lb spring might make the gun function with heavy hard cast bullets. The 10mm was designed to push a 200 grain bullet at 1200 fps. This is SUPPOSED to be a powerful cartridge. That is why I bought this gun. I am disappointed that S&W only designed the gun to function with less than full power 10mm ammo, and I am disappointed that the reviewer didn’t test the gun with the ammo that many of your readers are interested in. P.S. When I called S&W to ask what I needed to do to make this gun run Jerome told me that it was not designed around the full power 10mm ammo. In fact Jerome accused Underwood Ammo of selling “+P, over SAAMI spec” ammo, which Underwood says is simply not true…So the bottom line is they designed a 10mm to shoot 40S&W level ammo. I’m disappointed that the reviewer didn’t find this out. I bought this gun to shoot heavy hard cast bullets, but what I got was a research & development project.
Thanks for the heads up on Steinel Ammo.
If they make a version with a longslide, 5 1/4″ threaded barrel, and a manual safety, I’ll be first in line with money in hand. Untill then I’ll continue on with my Tanfoglio based 45Super as my pig and whitetail slayer. Also, mainstream 10mm factory loads are watered down crap… handloading is a necessity.
It’s pretty hard to find any major manufacturer releasing 10mm pistols that are threaded. Apparently the concept that doesn’t have to be subsonic to be quieter escapes them.
Hey Jdub, I know you’ve said in the past that supressors make an effective muzzle brake… is that because of the weight hanging off of the front of the barrel, or does it actually attenuate muzzle rise ? By the way, thanks for taking the time for these reviews… hope that you get compensated for ammo expenses.
It’s just the mass hanging off the end. The commercial ammo is provided by TTAG but the reload components are on me. I lose money on a whole lot of reviews, including this one.
Well it’s money well lost, jwt. Always look forward to your hunting articles and reviews. Good stuff. Thanks. And speaking of such, any word from Tom in Oregon? Hope he’s well.
No word from Tom and that leaves me a bit concerned.
He’s been awol for some time now. Wonder if Dan or someone could find out? Given his contributions and character (and recent heart issues) it would at least be a nice gesture to look into his well being, even if it might sorta be none of our business…
I would like to see more firearms chambered in 10mm in general. I’m in the market for one but nearly all I see around here is Glock. Sometimes I’ll see a Rock Island 1911 or a S&W610.
I don’t have any S&W semi’s mainly because I don’t care for their triggers.
There is 10mm ammo to be had here just not much.
Between a 10 and a 44 probably Glock 40 vs Ruger Blackhawk and not a bad selection of 10mm up here (or 44) but need to use gunbroker to find anything that isn’t a 9, 380, or 22 so you are doing way better in the available firearms department.
I’ve thought long and hard about a 10 mm. With magnum revolvers in the battery now it’s hard to justify the extra caliber. Especially today. Still. Good caliber. M&P is a good pistol. Trigger does get a little getting used to.
Over the years I have experienced the trigger locking up on one M & P Shield .45, and another that stopped working refused to reset.
I decided years later to try a full size M & P 2.0 .45. New in the box gun.
At 180 rounds, all standard pressure, mostly 230 grain FMJ, the magazine catch sheared and the magazine would not stay in the gun.
I dont usually listen to internet babble. However, after these problems,did some searching. Tons of problems with the Shield trigger.
For recreation and hunting sure. But never ever will I bet my life on that gun or similar Smiths.
vc, that’s interesting. I have a friend that took over firearms at the academy after retiring from FDLE. He replaced the Berettas with M&Ps years ago. These pistols are shot almost daily. All day. If Mark had trouble with them he would have DXd by now, but I’m going to ask him about this when we next speak. I’ve had no trouble with mine, but it doesn’t get shot much.
vc, I spoke to Mark. He said he ran the M&P for twelve years. He said what few problems he had were almost always traced back to a recruit trying to put a square peg in a round hole. Anyway, that’s the great thing about Capitalism; choice.
“How much do I like this gun? I sold my Delta Elite and bought this T&E model instead.”
Statements like that break my heart…
S/B I bought this gun to keep my Delta Elite company.
I’ve had to reinstate a one in-one out rule for new guns.
Maybe they’ll make a G29 equivalent. I’d love something like that, I don’t want a Block but I also don’t want to get the SA interpretation because SA (although it admittedly looks impressive.)
I have the Springfield XDm 5.25 in 10mm. It is an excellent pistol with a glass trigger. I’m not versed on what happened with Springfield and gun owners in general. I pretty much don’t care. This is a fine gun and I also have the Springfield Saint pistol in 300Blk. And except for the very first shot with it (light primer strike) I’ve never had an issue since.
I am a former citizen of Illinois, they (and Rock River) were donating money to anti gun Democrats who ran the Illinois Machine (Madigan wound up indicted) and didn’t oppose the dealer licensing scheme in Illinois.
I own an XD in .45 and it’s certainly a nice gun. Well built, good mags and a good trigger. If they do a full on management change I’ll start buying from them again.
In the interim I may 460 Rowland this one instead (and may prefer that to 10mm just because it would also save me having to load for another round although I guess I could probably use .40 S&W dies like one does for .38 Special dies and .357 mag couldn’t I?
That said a 5″ XD Tactical is not in the same realm as a compact G29 sized pistol now is it?
Underwood has (or at least had) some good 460 Rowland options but it is more fun to reload and on that topic same shell plate and die set for RCBS and presumably others re 40/10 would need different dies for 9×25 dillon but still same shell plate obviously.
I’m not familiar with glock mdl numbers unless I look them up or the description is in the article. My XDm is certainly not a compact! I do carry it IWB though. You do know that it’s there unlike my full size S&W in 9mm which I forget is on me sometimes. The S&W is the older version with the crap trigger that doesn’t bother me anymore because practice practice practice.
Are you thinking of the Sigmas? I own a couple SD9s and Sigmas, they’re not bad guns.
The Glock 29 is basically a slightly larger grip Glock 26 (the 12+1 9mm.) I’m going to call it a “2 finger gun” because you’re probably not getting that ring finger on the grip without an extension!
Are you talking to me about Sigmas and SD9’s? Now I’m lost…
politics, seriously enough already
Overwritten, insufferable…oh, now I see.
Six words is not overwritten. Now, the insufferable part……
For move velocity try 800X, and AA9.
Considering how weak some 10mm loads are shipped how does .40 fare in hunting or as a woods side arm?
Better than 9mm and short of moose or a really pissed off black bear that is more than enough for the Northeast……..well barring sasquatch but not worrying about that one.
You should be worried! He was last spotted in your neck of the woods!
Keeps the Windigo in Canada and the weird ass gnomes over in the Berkshires while occasionally fucking with stoners. Honestly with all the weird stuff we have to deal with I don’t have a problem with that one.
True that, I don’t think I’ve ever seen pics where he was the combative one although I would love video of him fucking with stoners! 😂
DISASSEMBLY DOES NOT REQUIRE PULLING THE TRIGGER. Twenty years ago S&W decided to improve on the Glock to take back some of the law enforcement market with a “better Glock.” One of the huge weaknesses of the Glock was the need to pull the trigger to disassemble. So S&W created a decock lever inside to be accessed when the slide is locked back, and be released with the tool in the grip (see your third photo). Remember that half of all new police recruits have never discharged a firearm. The Glock disassembly was taught (1) remove magazine (2) rack slide (3) pull trigger (4) pull takedown tabs and remove slide. Many recruits made the simple and predictable error of reversing steps 2 and three. So S&W wisely engineered this weakness out of the M&P. You just put it back. Your misinformation could result in accidental (or negligent) discharges.
Whose misinformation? Either you know how to safely disassemble your firearm or you don’t. I’m not sure you can cast blame on the manufacturer for others not being able to follow iinstructions.
“Disassembly requires the trigger to be pulled prior to the slide being released from the frame.”
That statement is misinformation.
This is from the S&W M&P Owner’s Manual:
• To access the frame tool, rotate it 1/4 turn (either direction)
and pull it out of the frame.
• Use the frame tool provided (or a similar device) to lower the
sear deactivation lever down into the magazine well.
You are correct. I completely forgot about the frame removal tool. I seriously doubt anyone actually uses this, but I’ll amend the text.
Again, if you can’t be trusted to unload a firearm prior to disassembly, you shouldn’t have a gun in the first place.
Well, lots of police officers wreck cars, but we don’t fire them and tell them they should not be allowed to drive a car in the first place. Similarly we don’t fire every officer that has an unintended firearm discharge. Rather we minimize “accidents” by training and mandating safe practices. You don’t neglect to wear your seatbelt. You don’t pull the trigger on your firearm to disassemble it. I have no problem with you taking safety shortcuts. But as a firearm writer you are now in a position to influence others.
Again…still… if you can’t safely unload a firearm, you shouldn’t have a firearm. I can’t make it simpler than that.
I guess I’ll stop wearing my body armor because if I can’t avoid getting shot I shouldn’t be on the street in the first place.
Holy false equivalence batman go shill your Glock hate elsewhere where you have your opinions affirmed.
Lew, go reread the aforementioned S&W owners manual… in BIG RED letters on the preceding page they admonish you to make certain that the pistol is COMPLETELY unloaded. It is otherwise quite possible for the slide to be dismounted with a live round chambered , even using the magic green/ yellow lever. The only effective absolute safety is the one between your ears.
And if you’re thinking no one’s that stupid, at our range we recently had an ND at the firing line when a shooter brought his S&W revolver in with a loaded cylinder and locked with the integral lock. Yeah, they’re out there !
𝐈 𝐦𝐚𝐤𝐞 𝐦𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧 $𝟏𝟐,𝟎𝟎𝟎 𝐚 𝐦𝐨𝐧𝐭𝐡 𝐨𝐧𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐞. 𝐈𝐭’𝐬 𝐞𝐧𝐨𝐮𝐠𝐡 𝐭𝐨 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐭𝐚𝐛𝐥𝐲 𝐫𝐞𝐩𝐥𝐚𝐜𝐞 𝐦𝐲 𝐨𝐥𝐝 𝐣𝐨𝐛𝐬 𝐢𝐧𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐞, 𝐞𝐬𝐩𝐞𝐜𝐢𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐲 𝐜𝐨𝐧𝐬𝐢𝐝𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐈 𝐨𝐧𝐥𝐲 𝐰𝐨𝐫𝐤 𝐚𝐛𝐨𝐮𝐭 𝟏𝟏 𝐭𝐨 𝟏𝟐 𝐡𝐨𝐮𝐫𝐬 𝐚 𝐰𝐞𝐞𝐤 𝐟𝐫𝐨𝐦 𝐡𝐨𝐦𝐞. 𝐈 𝐰𝐚𝐬 𝐚𝐦𝐚𝐳𝐞𝐝 𝐡𝐨𝐰 𝐞𝐚𝐬𝐲 𝐢𝐭 𝐰𝐚𝐬 𝐚𝐟𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐈 𝐭𝐫𝐢𝐞𝐝 𝐢𝐭…𝐆𝐎𝐎𝐃 𝐋𝐔𝐂𝐊….
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Has anyone had any luck in holster selection for the M&P 10mm with the 4.6” barrel? I am specifically looking for an OWB in leather (preferred) or kydex – thanks!
Anything that will fit the same gun in 45 ACP will fit the 10mm. Same for mag pouches. Just be sure their will be room for the tall front sight.
Thank you Jeff Bryan…I have actually tried that with a couple brands in that same situation, and the underlying manufacturer said it would not fit. This surprises me…since the gun has almost been out two years and it’s within the popular M&P line. So many sites have nothing available after going through their “search by make/model/caliber” menu. Oh well…guess I’ll have to check up every now and then. Thanks though!!
you asked about how Buffalo Bore gets their 220gr loads going 1050. I use Accurate #9 to get 1250fps with a 200gr cast bullet out of an eaa witness Stock 1 and Glock 20 safely. this is my primary sidearm here in Alaska for hiking & hunting. Absolutely have to work up from several grains below, but 13.8gr of AA#9 has proven safe in 3 different 10mm’s I’ve loaded for. That said, for this hot of a load, I only fire new brass. Then they get relegated to target loads, 180gr around 1000fps. The Glock loose chamber means that these are pretty well trash after 1 firing, but I’m not shooting hundreds of these at the range.
About 11gr Alliant Blue Dot will get you there too, but I found it tended to spike pressure quickly with small charge increases. AA#9 was more linear
obviously, these loads are beyond “book.” though there are numerous reports of them working for others online.