From Real Avid:
Real Avid, the Leader in DIY for Guns, introduces a simple to use, highly accurate system to ensure proper scope reticle alignment to a rifle’s bore axis. Called the Level-Right PRO, this system provides the essential reticle alignment needed for predictable point-of-impact when exceeding a rifle’s zeroed distance.
As experienced hunters and long-range competition shooters know, a scope’s reticle must be perfectly aligned with the rifle barrel bore’s axis to prevent left- or right-drift of the bullet’s point-of-impact when shooting past the zeroed distance. Scopes that are not properly aligned with the barrel will exhibit point-of-impact drift that increases with the shooting distance. In the past, cumbersome procedures and multiple bubble levels were required to achieve reticle alignment. Now, the revolutionary Level-Right PRO makes the process simple enough that anyone can install their scope the right way at their home workbench.
Howard Tripp, Chief Innovation Officer at Real Avid said “Guns continue becoming more accurate, and technology keeps improving optics performance. We looked at the way that scopes get mounted. We talked to many shooters and we realized there had to be a better way. Until now, there have only been complicated old school methods that aren’t capable of the kind of precision modern shooters demand. We eliminated fumbling with small levels and went right to the heart of the problem and created a Master Grade tool that quickly levels the reticle, not the turret. Our Gun DIY® customers want to do the job themselves, and they want the best tool for that job.”
Rather than attempt to level the rifle’s barreled action and the scope independently using small bubble levels and indexing scope alignment off the turret (an imprecise method), the Level-Right PRO indexes with the radii of the barrel and the scope objective bell simultaneously to level the entire barreled action and scope assembly. To then align the scope reticle to the barrel axis, the Level-Right PRO utilizes a Reticle Light and a leveled Precision Alignment Grid placed behind the rifle.
The light projects the reticle onto the grid, allowing the installer to simply rotate the scope until the projected reticle aligns with the grid’s vertical and horizontal planes. Once aligned, simply lock down the scope rings and the installation is complete and accurate.
“We wanted to create a simple to use, but highly accurate way for users to level their reticle. Level-Right PRO delivers on that objective”, said Dave Steiner, President of Real Avid. “Level-Right PRO allows installers to level the gun and scope in one simple step. Once leveled, they are able to easily adjust and validate true reticle alignment on both vertical and horizontal planes regardless of turret alignment. Lastly, the operation can be performed on the workbench or kitchen table.”
The Level-Right PRO includes:
- Level-Right Pro
- Precision Alignment Grid
- Rechargeable Reticle Light
- Standard barrel and Picatinny rail attachment mounts
- MSRP: $69.99
And how does this system ensure that your rifle is plumb (exactly vertical) in the first place?
I have yet to see a system which provides a way to make sure that your rifle is exactly plumb before before leveling the scope reticle.
And I have another concern: what if the shooter holds the rifle slightly tilted when he/she shoots? Then having the scope leveled to the rifle will result in errors because the shooter has tilted the rifle.
With respect to leveling the rifle before attempting to level a scope, I suppose that you could clamp the rifle by its barrel in a vice and hold a torpedo level vertically against the buttstock. You would then have to eyeball the level in the exact vertical center line of the buttstock while rotating the rifle to get it perfectly plumb. (Then really clamp the vice on the barrel to lock it in the plumb position.)
Now that I have thought about this possible solution to ensuring that my rifle is plumb, I will have to try it and see if my scope reticles are level. And to do that, I will simply align my vertical reticle with the plumb corner of a neighbor’s home (which I will verify is plumb before embarking on this odyssey).
Seems to me that having solid points of contact on the barrel and the scope, with the bubble level on top, would let you do exactly that. If your scope rings are properly attached, the Level-Right dingus should share the same vertical orientation as the rifle. (Unless I’m missing something…?)
This seems to be as simple as wheelers system bar using the cap on top of the top turret adjustment. However ive learned over the many years to use a leveled laser horizontal line on the wall or white cardboard in front of the action an scope to do the same thing. Be it handgun or long gun it works.
This system is still using bubble levels for both parts. As with my way I still use precision bubble levels to level the action, then course or gross set the scope using the bubble and then check it with a projected horizontal laser line. My system also works using a precision level and marking a fine line on a wall adjacent to the bench being used to level the action.
All be it this new way of projecting the light rearward thru the scope and projecting the reticle on to the card seems very logical and simple, providing there in paralex or prisim deviation, and if there is it would probly be of no concern at such a short distance of projection.
I have a cheaper solution. Once you’ve clamped the rifle vertical (using torpedo level ir digital angle gauge), you can hang a plumb bob (a string and a weight will do) downrange and align the vertical reticle line to it. This also lets you check that you don’t vary side-to-side as you run the vertical adjustment to the extremes. You need a big enough room that you can get a clear sight picture, or you can put the plumb bob on a target hanger at your favorite range.
I can see it will work with bolt action rifles, but I don’t see how this would be of use to align a scope on an AR that has a handguard, unless I was fortunate enough for my set-back to have the rings only on the upper receiver rail and I could remove the handguard to access the barrel.