SecureIt Agile Model 52 Gun Cabinet
Dan Z. for TTAG
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By Tom Kubiniec

The two basic security concerns when it comes to guns in the home seem to be opposing forces: secure your firearms so others cannot get them and have them available quickly in the event of a crisis.

Ironically, both goals can easily be achieved with one effort. That’s because some of the locations with the most tactical advantage in your home are also the best places to store guns because thieves simply don’t look there.

The truth is the only type of safe that cannot be broken into is one that cannot be found.

A big, opulent gun safe is the last place anyone should keep valuables or firearms for personal defense. In fact, modern gun safes offer little in the way of security, take too long to open, are too big to hide, and are usually the first place a thief goes to look for valuables.

In contrast, decentralizing your gun storage is tactically more effective to protect your family and more difficult for gun thieves to gain access to your firearm collection.

The Statistics: United States Department of Justice Report 

Consider the numbers surrounding home invasion and burglary: 65 percent of all home break-ins occur during the day between 10am and 3pm. Most criminals are in and out of a home in under 10 minutes. However, 30 percent of burglaries occur when someone is home and 38 percent of assaults and 60 percent of rapes occur during these home invasions.

While the actual risk of a violent home event in America is low, each person should still take steps to ensure the safety of their family. Especially considering thieves can buy a set of $20 bump keys, which allows them to easily unlock nine out of 10 doors in the U.S.

That’s why it’s important for each person to decide not to be a victim. After that, the next questions are how and where are the best places to secure guns? This is critical to your family’s safety and defensive capabilities.

If you have firearms locked in your home, store them in a manner that gives you an advantage in the event of a crisis. After all what good is a gun in a crisis if you cannot get to it?

Where do thieves go when they break into a home?

SecureIt Agile gun cabinet
Dan Z. for TTAG

Real-world crime data shows that when a thief breaks into your home they are most likely going to the master bedroom, home office, living room, and the dining room, in that order. If they think there is a safe in the house, they will likely go to the basement after going to the living room.

A big, heavy gun safe is not a deterrent, but an invitation to a thief as they know something valuable is inside. Once found, if a thief came prepared, they will have the safe opened in mere minutes.

Where to store firearms for the best tactical advantage in the event of a crisis.

Master Bedroom – While the data suggest this is the worst room to store valuables, it is also a room where you spend a great deal of time sleeping. Store one to two firearms in a lightweight safe under your bed. No more than necessary.

Kitchen Pantry – This is a great location for a small gun cabinet as thieves are not typically interested in the kitchen. This is also a room where people spend a lot of time during the day. In the event of a home invasion, if you are in the kitchen, you will have quick access to a firearm. Also, most homes have an exit near, or from, the kitchen. This allows you to arm yourself and then evacuate the home. Your goal always should be to avoid confrontation.

Closet Near the Front Door – This is a great location for securing firearms. Thieves ignore these closets. If someone you do not recognize knocks on the door, you refuse to open and they start trying to kick it in, you’ll have very fast access to a gun.

Guest Bedroom – If your home has a guest room with a closet, this is a good location for additional gun storage. Thieves will typically ignore guest rooms.

Bottom line: have a plan

We’re taught that in case of a fire you should have a place outside the home for everyone to meet. This way you can account for everyone. In a robbery or home invasion where you cannot exit the home, designate a room where family members can go in the event of an emergency. A guest room or secondary bedroom with a locking door is a great choice. You should have a small, lightweight safe or larger gun cabinet secured in this room.

No matter where you are in the house, especially in the event of a home invasion, always be within a few seconds of accessing your firearms. They must not be out in the open and they must be secured and hidden from small children, and from being used against you.


Tom Kubiniec is President and CEO of SecureIt Tactical which specializes in civilian gun storage and education for gun owners across the nation with the goal to improve lives through safety and better preparation. The company is also the largest supplier of weapons storage units to the U.S. military.

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  1. Home carry in a comfy holster such as the N82 Tactical. Put it in the safe next to the bed when sleeping.
    Always available this way.

    • A decent topic, yet, it’s an unnecessary topic; for a person serious about self-defense using a *hand-firearm*. When any firearm is not on your person

      **** it is not secure ****

      — end of story —

      A safe for one or more firearms, only makes it more convenient, for anyone to transport the entire safe; along with its contents to a location of their choice.

        • Exactly. A properly secured safe weighing hundreds of pounds isn’t going anywhere and a thief isn’t going to spend 20–30 mins trying to get into it. The article had some good advice and some poor advice.

        • 400lbs is trivial for two men to carry out and crack it later. If its a gym rat, 400lbs will not deter them at all. Keep in mind, they don’t care if they rip up the floor and put holes in the wall in the process.

        • 400 really awkward pounds will never be, for anyone smaller than the Rock, considered a trivial weight. I would wager your life 2 average street punk thieves couldn’t move it out of a house without injuring each other.

      • *** Please make note ***

        I did say “serious about self-defense”. That said, other than a collector or hunter, why would the average ‘John/Jane Q. Public’ put/lock their self-defense firearm(s), assuming one back-up, in a safe? I truly do not feel sorry for anyone living in a state with laws that will make you a criminal, if you do not ‘have’ and/or place your tools in a safe.

        I am also not attempting to change anyone’s method of doing a certain something. Lastly, how many of us average citizens, fit the profile of having a concrete floor, or having a landlord that allows the tenant to augment the rented space in that fashion, never-mind purchasing a safe that’s worth bolting to that concrete floor?

        Keep your tools secure on your person. Its really not that hard to get used to having your tools on you ‘all’ the time. I would rather forget and leave both my car keys and my cell, before I leave my self-defense tool(s) unsecured.

        • Where as this might be a valid point for someone with one or two firearms, when someone has 20-30 things change a bit. Your not going to carry 4 long guns on your person. People that live in mobile homes are not likely to buy $2K safes and bolt them to a floor. But not everyone lives in mobile homes.

        • My safe is 6ft tall, 5 ft wide and weighs almost 1000lbs and is bolted to the floor. I guess thieves could spend some time trying to get into it but it’s more secure than hiding stuff around the house. I don’t live in an area where “safe crackers” would be looking for safes to crack. I am guessing if someone breaks in the will take what they can in a few minutes and get out. Maybe they come back later for the safe. Who knows. But I’ll feel better having my stuff locked up in a quality safe (no Chines Home Depot specials) then scattered about in my house.

      • TTAG probably says use a safe because of all the Karens in the world. Its a wink & nod that you aren’t actually supposed to use the safe.

  2. I know this might spark a lot of trash talk, but I will never use an electronic safe. My standing gun safe is a heavy duty “Made In America” model with a manual tumbler. One of my friends once had a real problem on his hands when the battery recently died on his keypad, and he didn’t know where the backup key was because he had never used it since he installed the safe. It was a cheapie 4-gun model that he put in his bedroom closet, so he had to literally destroy it with power tools to open it up.

    • “I will never use an electronic safe.”

      Smart man. I hate those things. Rotary combination locks never run out of battery power and are faster than electronic locks if you use a Sunday combination.

    • I was hesitant on buying one, but 7 years ago i got a Cannon from Costco, smokin deal free delivery. No probs with the keypad yet. I use the box it came in and cut out a door to hide the safe and have it blend in with the other storage crap in the garage. I also have 3 pistol boxes, bolted down, well hidden throughout the house, converted ammo can, Sentry safe (bio, keypad and key), Fort Knox (in the master bedroom). Opposite end of the spectrum, I know 2 people that have their safes in the living room because it’s beautiful and they have an indoor camera on it 24/7.

      • Sounds like you are describing my house, Fort Knox, everything is bolted down. If you lose your key or let the batteries run down, remember, an intimate object is only as smart as its owner. Sometimes smarter, keeping guns from irresponsible people is their only job. Good job.

    • On mine (I think most) the battery is replaceable without opening the safe, one problem down, There is no backup key, there went another problem. I can reset the combination to whatever I can remember, another one gone. You guys should go back to the non-electronic phones, too! Pictured safe is a cute little one.

    • Sargent and Greenleaf electronic locks do not lose the combination when the battery dies. Change the battery and you are back in business. Also, S&G recently confirmed their electronic locks are EMP event safe. Noted they have always been; just had not been confirmed and advertised as such.

    • That has been used in enough movies and TV shows that some might, especially people that hide their own drugs and stuff there in their homes. Not saying it is a bad idea, just that it is not one that hasn’t been publicized.

      • I mentioned on another forum about not hiding drugs in a toilet cistern because I had heard from cops and paramedics it is always the first place they look.

        There were a lot of abusive comments about how I gave away their hiding space. For heck’s sake, it was police and paramedics I know who told me about it in the first place, so they either already know or it is one of the first places they check.

        • Backup keys are good to hide inside cheap electronics, like your computer mouse. Just wrap it in vinyl tape first. Thumb drives and stuff can also be hidden inside mice, passwords too. USB extensions, inside the power box to your headphones, etc, are great places for tiny objects.

          While this is more related to international travel it also applies to keeping sensitive items inside your home safe. You want to go a minimum of three deep for sensitive items. Put something inside your electric shaver which is inside your toiletries bag, which is inside your luggage. You could even go so far as to superglue a hollowed out capacitor into something, which is four deep. Likewise, a dead hard drive is a good container, inside a laptop, which is inside a laptop bag, which is inside a backpack. Physical keys can be cloned into plastic and hidden much easier. Hiding guns long term can be put inside the washer and dryer framework.

          The people talking about putting the safe inside a cardboard box, and behind a bunch of useless junk are on the right train of thought. Its in plain sight but also very hidden among low value junk and no thief wants to toss piles of old cloths to reach.

          The best hiding places are objects that were never intended to be opened or serviced. Like a faux water heater tank.

  3. From the article, “A big, heavy gun safe is not a deterrent, but an invitation to a thief as they know something valuable is inside. Once found, if a thief came prepared, they will have the safe opened in mere minutes.”

    That might be true if you have a cheap piece of crap safe with the hinges on the outside that can be easily defeated and ground off with even cheaper interior bold. I have a liberty safe with 16 ‘harden’ door bold on ALL 4 sides of the doors NO exposed hinges and bolted to a concrete floor. Maybe if they brought some dynamite or C-4 they might get in my safe. Good luck with that…!!!

    • When my mom bought her safe we looked for one with exposed hinges specically. The safe has the hardened locking bars on all four sides. Attacking the hinges is just a waste of time.

    • Same here. The safe in dynabolted to a rebared concrete floor. I check the safe for lateral movement a decade after installation by grabbing the upper inside edge of the door opening and pulling back with all my strength and weight. It did not move 1 millimeter.

    • Any safe can be defeated with enough time, know-how and equipment.

      Most thieves don’t have those three things. If they do, it’s probably because you broke op-sec and talked to people about your expensive gun collection or let people into the house with stuff around.

    • Hinges are not part of the security of quality safes, so grinding them off accomplishes nothing. The hinges are there to hold the door up when it’s open, not to hold the door closed. Most of the best safes made have external hinges.

    • Only crackheads and the neighbor’s kid will attack a safe door. With a little time and distant neighbors, anyone with any smarts will use a $20 Harbor Freight grinder to cut a hole in the side/back/top. Friend owns a successful locksmith business. Always says…locks only keep out the honest and the stupid among us. Better than having a strong safe is having a strong safe that no one can find. Hide your strong safe behind a false wall so intruder won’t find it to even attempt entry. A diversion safe is always a good idea. Install a cheap gun CABINET…the thin metal type ie StackOn…in an easily found location. You want it found. Place several cheap non-functional guns in it to be easily stolen. Maybe lead the barrel so they will explode if fired. Then, the gun is considered demilled and non-hazardous. Thief finds the obvious cabinet and quits looking for the strong safe that is hidden.

      • “….anyone with any smarts will use a $20 Harbor Freight grinder to cut a hole in the side/back/top.”
        Hahaha, good luck with that.
        Both of my safes have large “WARNING” stickers, informing would be thieves that there are EXPLOSIVE reloading materials inside. These stickers are readily available online for a few dollars.
        Only one ACTUALLY has these materials inside, best of luck guessing which one. 😄
        Don’t forget to smile for the cameras that are monitoring that area of my home too.

    • External hinges are a security and convenience feature. They allow you swing the door open wide and safe space inside.

      If it is a quality safe the hinges will be on the outside and they don’t have anything to do with defeating bolts. The hinges merely hold the door up when open. So a thief will spend hours grinding off hinges to find out that he can’t can’t just magically life the door off like in the bathroom at his house.

      “The pro that hit my grandparents house many years ago had a specialized pry bar that he jammed between the door frame and the lock, then twisted, ripping the lock right out of the door. Police said he was in in less than 30 seconds.”

      Must have been a cheap safe. Good safe locks have re-lockers to defeat this.

  4. An old gutted pop machine in yer garage would do the trick. So I’ve been told😃😎😋😏

    • Any trouble with temperature fluctuation in the garage contributing to rust issue? I’m in a dry western climate so it probably wouldn’t matter too much, but I still wonder.

      • Not with my crappy gats…theoretically speaking. Ballistol is awsome. QUESTION: any recommended single point AR15 sling TTAG cognoscenti???

      • “Damp Rid” calcium carbonate dehumidifier. Check monthly, pour the collected water down the toilet, and refill with more crystals.

  5. I’m not a security expert. I’ve only worked a few thousand burglaries. So this is just my opinion. The professional burglar is a rare bird. Most just want in and out as quickly as possible with whatever they can grab. I live alone and keep several weapons easily available. All the really good stuff is in a quality safe. The average shithead around here may chip the paint, but he’s not getting in. Yeah, I know I may contribute a couple of handguns to the street, but it’s not like they can’t get them anyway. As for burglary/rape; rape is usually the primary motive. Theft is incidental.

  6. So many problems with this article. A lightweight safe under your bed is simply carried away in a pillowcase (happened to a friend). Make sure to chain it down.
    Most burglaries occur between 10-3 because they don’t expect people to be at home. Most home invasions are “robberies,” because they expect (i.e. WANT) people to be at home. Big difference.
    A big heavy safe takes time to get into, and most burglars don’t want to spend time.
    Handguns are the real target- they are easy to hide and sell. A gun store/gunsmith client of mine was burglarized in the middle of the night. They took 35 handguns and not one single long gun- there were hundreds present and out in the open.
    Closet near the front door- do you really want to be 3 feet away from the front door fumbling with a combination lock when the door gets kicked in?
    “Modern gun safes offer little in the way of security” Well, maybe cheap ones.

    Better ideas: a hidden safe. You can mount a cheap lockbox in between wall studs and cover it with a mirror or picture frame.
    How about an alarm, eh?
    Put a deadbolt on the door to the room with your gun safe in it- half-assed “safe room.” Don’t get hung up on having a solid door- it only has to hold as long as it takes to open the gun safe where Mr. 12ga is waiting.
    Keep a couple of lockboxes with staged guns in different places. I like one in the garage in case you come home and surprise a burglar (happened to a friend).
    Security cameras- why go to the front door to look through the peephole when you can see who’s there from you phone?

  7. Gadsen Flag is one hundred per cent correct. I was a cop for 23 years, security another 10, and still write and teach the subject. Here is the bottom line- most gun safes are secure against the pos that breaks into your home. A professional team, well, they have targeted you! IF you have a gun in the corner or on top of a cabinet, etc, they will find it. There have been scores of homeowners confronted with their own gun because they had it handy. The bad buys will find it. The only measure of safety in the home is to have a gun on our. A .38 in the back pocket is the answer. If you are surprised by someone who has got past the locks it is too late to dash for the gun- they will have it and use it against you.
    On the other hand if you hit the bed at night, then get a shotgun or rifle out of the safe, lock the safe, and put the piece beside the bed. Lock it up in the morning. This ritual may safe your life. My bedside gun is the gun that that I carry all day.

    This article has pretty poor advice that I hope you take up the logic ladder. Keeping a gun at ready and hidden is like having a gun in the car instead of on the belt, virtually worthless.
    Not the same as keeping a .22 ready to stop a coyote running into the henhouse= lots less pressure on that one

  8. Alarms with monitoring go a long way. A creaming siren and police at the door in minutes means there is no time to open safes. Where i live the response times are excellent, we’ve set it off a few times and cops came quickly. Dogs make good deterrents and large breeds like to play with body parts ripped from criminals.

    If you have a safe or strong metal box like a stack-on put it inside a closet and lag bolt it on at lease two sides to the framing inside the walls. Flush it against the drywall and leave no gaps. Make sure the door opens in a direction that makes it hard or impossible to pry it open. Even the stack-ons are surprisingly hard to open and if they are bent up and damaged they get even harder, forcing the perp to resort to cutting and that is slow.

    Of course being op-sec about the safe (s) and content is probably the best idea. Crooks like a sure thing and won’t waste time on pot luck.

  9. Hmmm. The safe is to keep things from being fiddled with…..wouldn’t stop a professional.

    Most burglars are just lazy pieces of shit. Anything that resembles work is off limits. They dont want to be there long enough to cut into a safe.

    Someone with murderous or other evil intent is a different story. They are the ones you need to have a gun ready and in close proximity. Their goal may well be to catch you home and have you open the safe.

    Best to have a gun on you or at least very near you. YMMV.

    • Unless these pros are state actors or have $10,000 coring rig, several hours, and an oceans 11 crew, they aren’t getting into a UL-30×6 tool resistant safe.

  10. My self defense guns are not normally locked away inside the house. But then it is not a place with children or idiots in it. Were children or idiots to be visiting, I’d take appropriate steps.

    Most of my guns are not what I consider my self defense guns. Not that they cannot be used that way, any gun can be and every sort of gun has been. So most of my guns are locked up in several steel gun lockers in the same walk-in closet as my ammo stash. Not gun safes, just the assemble yourself sort of gun locker. The walk-in closet door has a locking doorknob too.

    Now then, guns intended for self defense, well, those are around, and handy, as they should be. Just not in plain sight.

    That is all.

    • Enuf,

      “Now then, guns intended for self defense, well, those are around, and handy, as they should be. Just not in plain sight.”

      Yup. No children or dumb people in my home. My home defense guns are easily accessible IF you know where they are. The one one on my right hip is the easiest to get to. 🙂

  11. 1) on your person
    2) in your home
    3) in the home of someone you trust
    4) somewhere else off site that you trust

  12. The safe in my house is easily found, bolted fast to the beams with thick bolts, and empty. It is a decoy. Go ahead, spend your time trying to defeat it or rip it off the wall.

    My guns are well hidden, but I can get to them quickly. HOWEVER, I always have one one me (except in the shower or in bed). Even when on the treadmill or Total Gym, even while doing Tai Chi. Even when on insomniac zombie patrol at 2 AM, I am armed.

    Anyone breaking into my house while I am home, is going to have a no good, very bad day.

  13. Well, hate to break it to you but thieves are more organized than you think. I wouldn’t guess at the numbers but in large cities, a lot of burglaries are done by gangs. They have info on your home from wherever. (you’d be surprised how many burglers/fences are either home security installers or used to be 🙂 )
    Smaller orgs will focus around a fence who sets up the score and then offers it to his proteges/associates. Again; inside information.

    Sure in smaller communities there’s more guys who are amateurs just breaking into places but even there they’ve got an idea who’s got what because they live nearby or go to school with the kids or even visited the house.

    Paranoia is your friend. Don’t tell anyone where your stuff is esp. if you own firearms. Keep them hidden (that I agree with) rather than rely on a lock (but locks are good for other reasons). And don’t drag them out in front of people that you don’t know. (and of course that still has risks)

    Oddball places works for amateurs. Pros will already know or been told about other places. Good luck.

  14. I gave up on the gun rack in the back window of the pickup idea about 40 years ago.

    For the last 25 years at least, my vehicles do not have so much as an NRA window sticker or any sort of bumper sticker.

    I do have a “VooDoo Tactical” cap, but it was on sale cheap from Midwest with free shipping on a order of other stuff, so I tossed it in there.

    That’s about it.

    • Agreed. My vehicle has never had any gun-related decals of any sort. Not out of fear of political opposition, but caution against any would-be thieves following me home and casing my residence for burglary.

  15. Personally,
    I have a fairly cheap, 14 gun electronic lock safe in the Master Bedroom closet. It is bolted down, but weighs about 250, so I don’t think it’s going anywhere. It’s there to keep the toys away from the grandkids…

    I have cameras on all exterior surfaces, with motion detection. As for at home, I carry. Always. When I sleep, my weapon is in a mattress holster, easily reachable.

    I would be much more worried about my reloading setup. Thousands in a spare room.

  16. A carry in my pocket gives me a very warm comfy feeling. Also gives me time, if needed, to get another gun from secure locations. Electronic safes are fine with me; I change batteries like I due on smoke detectors. Additionally, backup keys are strategically placed in case there is a need.

  17. I think the author missed a point, what you need to do is a) withstand a casual attempt by an idiot and b) make your home more difficult than your neighbors to hit by a more serious threat. Start with good lighting inside and out, cameras at least on all entrances and a couple inside recording 24/7, then add some dogs, an alarm, locked doors and some safes bolted to the floor. Yes, plural, split your collection up so any one safe lost is catastrophic. Personally my safes are too slow to access for self defense, they are for storage. I have what I need within reach, loaded and ready to roll.

  18. The purpose of a security container is not to prevent entry but to delay entry beyond the period where a responder can arrive. So, if you have an alarm system that has a 10 minute response time and it takes 11 minutes to gain entry to your safe then it is effective. The security containers used to store Secret and above classified information are rated for 30 minutes. No one is going beat that system without inside help.

  19. If you have dopers or big mouth idiots in the immediate family you are screwed already.

    Good points.

    My house is 115 years old. When doing work in the attic I ran across a secret drawer of some type. It neatly slid out of the wall and had spaces neatly arranged. Nothing in it.
    My wife said I guess poor people have always lived here. It isn’t common but neither rare for remodelers to find coins, money, and guns hidden in walls, etc. And of course much more rare the dead body!
    The real problem would be if a home invader came in and spotted the safe- and left and relocked the door. Then came back with a gun to your wifes head.
    You can always come up with a nightmare scenario. Be reasonably safe, quite, and keep a gun on the hip or the back pocket at home.

    You would not know there is a gun in my house just walking through and there are plenty!
    Recently a grand kid came in and surprised me. He is five. He said hey pop you have a gun in your back pocket.

    I don’t usually let them know-

    I said its a water gun.

    He said oh then squirt Lucy. (The pet)

    Well good discussion.

    Not the best article on TTAG

  20. One if my favorite protections is the fact that I live 1 1/4 miles down a dead-end street, there is only one way out. That is a very long drive if you are planning to commit a crime, gives time (and reason) to rethink your plan. Somebody intrudes, the cops can wait for him at the highway. Haven’t had a problem yet, and we’re 25 years in.

  21. Glad I live in a small town. The one and only home invasion we have ever had that I can recall was an attack on a pot grower to steal his harvest. We have burglaries, sure, but a couple of large dogs are enough to dissuade any of the homeless tweekers who might be inclined to try. There is no way I am installing (hackable) cameras inside my home (though I do want a video door bell, just haven’t found one yet that is reliable) and I don’t have an alarm system. Pretty sure that not too many folks in my neighborhood do either.

  22. 4 Best Places to Store Firearms for Safety and Home Defense:

    1) On your left hip
    2) On you right hip
    3) On your left ankle
    4) On your right ankle

    Next question.

    • What about the lady who got all the way into the jail and THEN had her gun found…..during a cavity search.

      Talk about concealed!!

      Oh and uh…..eewwwww.

  23. they don’t bother with “bump keys”. they use a crowbar or flatbar to pry a door open. faster, easier and quieter than kicking it open and can be used as a weapon.

    burglars always go to 2 places: a big safe, and the bedroom. a big empty safe makes a great time waster. so does a bedroom full of stuff to dig through. then they have less (or no) time to find where the goodies are actually hidden.

    always make it so they have to break something to get in. if they can shim open a window, when they leave they go out the front or back door which they leave unlocked. and you will tell the cops you know the door was locked, they must have come in through the window; and the cops will TELL you no you didn’t you left your door unlocked, this isn’t a burglary it’s “stealing” since they came in through an unlocked door. making it not as serious a crime, keeping their crime stats down, putting less resources (if any) on the case, less likelihood they have to prosecute someone, or even mess with it.

    speaking of which, the less the value of the items stolen, the less the cops want to mess with it. that same door that got fingerprinted when $6000 of valuables were stolen, now gets a comment like “we can’t get fingerprints off that surface” and a shrug when only $300 of valuables are stolen. but they can. they are so good they can tell the difference between latex or cloth gloves being used.

    • The pro that hit my grandparents house many years ago had a specialized pry bar that he jammed between the door frame and the lock, then twisted, ripping the lock right out of the door. Police said he was in in less than 30 seconds.

  24. 1) In a FAS1 Safe anchored to the floor next to the bed.
    2) In a FAS1 Safe bolted to the bed frame next to your pillow.
    3) In a FAS1 Safe bolted under the bed frame horizontally.
    4) In a FAS1 Safe bolted to a wall stud next to your bed.

  25. In either direction seems like any gun owner is screw. You cant buy a gun safe because its easy for thief’s to spot. And if you buy a small safe its easy for a thief to destroy with a huge hammer or tools. If you place an alarm it wont matter because the thief has calculated destination A from B. Unless its one of those expensive monthly pay alarms. And if you try hiding it, the thief knows were your new hiding spot is at. Because the previous day he place a hidden camera in your home. It SUCK’S

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