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Like many OFWGs of a certain age, I can’t see both the sight and the target at the same time. Therefore, if I want to hit anything further than about 20 yards, I needed a scope on my commie-gun. I paid retail for both the rifle and the kit, and put a couple hours into the actual install (and about six into making the video). The mount is pretty solid, though we’ll see how it handles having a scope that big mounted on a cantilever like that. As always YMMV.

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  1. First, I wouldn’t call a gun from 1891 a commie-gun, though apparently this one was made during commie-time, and loosely speaking there was/is some communism before and after official “communism”.
    There’s 7.62 Soviet and 7.62 Russian.

    Second, thanks for the video! I did enjoy it.

  2. I think you will find that you will need to fully bed the scope rail on the rifle receiver. The “one scope rail fits round AND hex receivers” means that one gives up some contact area to the receiver if you use it on a round receiver. Even using Loctite on the screws will not save you vs the heavy recoil of the round. Everyone I have every spoken to who used this rail said it rattled loose in 100 rounds or less. I finally had to bed the rail with PC-7 (yes, epoxy) for it to stop rattling loose

    The bolt handle is also weak. Ive never cycled a bolt on a MN that was smooth, eventually the screw will loosen up and the handle gets sloppy. TIG welding the handle on and cleaning up the rear filet so the bolts bearing edge was nice and smooth was my final solution.

    • +1 and +1

      Both of these will happen. You may also want to get a cheek rest pad or adjustable cheek rest because a scoped Mosin will put your neck in an awkward position(for me) and may cause some neck pain later.

      If you decide to do another one you should check the local gunsmiths in your area to see what they’d charge to do it professionally. One of my locals will do a weld on mount and downturn your bolt for around $120.

      YES, I know it’s more than the rifle cost but if the rifle started out accurate you can end up with a real gem for hunting for quite a bit less than a Savage.

      • I suggest cross hatching the underside of the scope rail as well as the receiver. I know some will recoil with the idea of willfully putting hatching in a MN- but if you want that rail to stay put the PC-7 needs something to “bite”.

  3. Good video, thanks Tim.

    Another option that doesn’t involve drilling in to your receiver and is easily reversed back to stock is Jmecks scope mounts. I have one of the see-thru mounts and have been very happy with it.

  4. UPDATE: – Just got off the phone with ATI, I had to reorder the screws as I stripped the damn things trying to tighten them up. I think once I get them in, I will try using JB Weld to help keep the mount in place. I got a prompt email response from Walter:

    You will need 2 of the part number (33.0023.01) 10-32 x ½” Slotted PH $3.99 each. If you would like to order this item you can call 1-800-925-2522 x 303 and they can help you with the order. When the automated operator starts to talk just dial 303 and it will connect you.

    There you go, homies.

  5. ????? Why not just buy a ruger mur’ican or some other entry-level hunter probably get a better shooter with fewer $ kinda like trying to make pig skin into a purse when it already makes perfectly fine pork rindeds

  6. That’s a bummer to hear that it worked loose on you after only 40 rounds. I really liked the way this mount and the RSI mount looked on the rifle, but this ATI one seems to be the only one that’s consistently available. Did the JB Weld and/or epoxy help hold everything together well enough to keep the zero on the scope after a full day on the range?

  7. Great video,really showed the installation of the scope kit….regardless of your opinion of the rifle,,the video is about the install…very well done

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