I love GLOCKs. In theory. The idea of a generic-looking polymer pistol that takes a licking and keeps on kicking [butt] appeals to me on the sub-atomic level. In practice, not so much. Truth be told, I can’t shoot them for shit. Like Goldilocks trying to get comfortable on Papa Bear’s bed, I’m always fussing with a GLOCK’s handle, trying to get a proper grip. I don’t have this problem with a whole range of other polymer-framed striker-fired pistols, from the Belgian FNX to America’s Smith & Wesson M&P. So why not just give-up on GLOCK and move on? Glad you asked . . .
I’m lucky enough to live in a rural part of the Lone Star State that I tirelessly traverse in my Toyota Tundra. (Not literally, in either sense.) From time to time, my Texas-built truck also serves as my hunting blind. I can’t tell you how many pigs and deer I’ve shot after jumping out of my truck just off the beaten (and publicly owned) path. No really. I can’t. The firearm I use for these often spontaneous hunting excursions is known as my truck pistol.
The Wilson Combat Beretta 92G was my truck pistol for a while. Frankly, I never really got to loving the upgraded 92; the trigger gave me trouble and the gun lacked that certain je sais quoi. Specifically, 9mm isn’t enough cartridge for humane body shots into big pigs. So I donated the 92G to an Army friend who’s set to auction it off for a veterans’ charity and drafted-in my Smith & Wesson Model 29.
The Model 29’s .44 magnum chambering makes it enough gun for anything on four legs in the lower 48, with the possible pants-wetting possibility of a close encounter with an ursine inhabitant. I’ve taken deer, pigs and antelope with the Smith out past 100 yards. Yes but –
Texas is still concealed carry. If I want put the Smith on my hip and hit the town, it’s a shirt-stretching violation of the old adage “concealed means concealed.” Which opened the door (so to speak) for the GLOCK 20. Thanks to my lanky frame, I can cover the full-size pistol with a button-down shirt hanging over a high-rise OWB holster. I can also shoot seven rounds of 10mm from the GLOCK way faster than I can fire six rounds of .44 goodness from the Smith.
Yes there is that. And high speed reloading.
TTAG has plenty of reviews of this gun. My goal was: put the GLOCK 20 through its paces as a LOOK THERE’S A PIG! truck pistol. That meant testing the GLOCK 20 standing and kneeling, shooting at steel at 50 yards and in, without bags, at a fair pace. RF donated 50 rounds of American Eagle 180gr FMJ and 25 rounds of Doubletap’s 180gr Nosler JHPs to the cause. It’s nowhere near the round count I’d consider sufficient for a full review, but enough ammo to get a feel for the gun’s console companion compatibility.
At first I was well pleased. Again, the full-framed 10mm fit my hand well, affording me a full and fulsome grip. At 10 yards shooting at 6″ plates, firing a hit-a-second was no great challenge. Dumping 15 rounds into a center mass target wasn’t much of a problem either. But I reckon I couldn’t shoot the GLOCK 20 at its Miculek maximum and still place lead in a 6″ zone at 10 yards.
Anyway, the 10mm bullet struck the steel with resounding force. There was no question when I was on target. Or what would happen to a perforated porker, or a two-legged imminent threat of death or grievous bodily harm.
As I increased my speed, I had to drive the muzzle back on target, instead of letting it fall into place. As you’d expect, the G20 require a firm grip, and it really likes a strong support hand. Shoot Gaston’s gun one-handed and it’s snappier than a pissed-off Yorkshire terrier. The trigger pull feels longer than a J.S. Mill paragraph.
Moving back to 50 yards was a humbling experience. Shooting from a knee without a rest, I hit a 6″ plate a total of one in ten rounds. Not great. When I moved up to 35 yards and the hits became reassuringly reliable. The recoil is there, by God, but it’s manageable, with and without gloves. By the time I had moved-up to 25 yards, ringing steel became more-or-less inevitable. From the kneel I had no misses at that range and speed. But then it happened. The impossible.
Round 52 fired and the G20 didn’t return to battery. The slide locked back with the round sitting flush in the magazine, not pushing forward at all. “Tap” did nothing. Removing the magazine yielded similar non-results. I reloaded and racked, putting the round in the chamber. The GLOCK 20 fired just fine. The next twenty-three rounds (all Doubletaps) fired without a single hiccup.
I did a quick check for accuracy. I ended up with 6″ groups, unsupported, slow fire. Note: I’m not a great shooter standing. I grew-up hunting; I didn’t stand to shoot anything until I joined the army. Even in combat, when I wanted to hit something, I took a knee. So a 6″ group standing at 25 yards isn’t horrible for me. It’s . . . mediocre.
On the positive side, the GLOCK 20’s better than any other stock GLOCK I’ve ever shot. The powerful 10mm round is very much worthy of consideration for impromptu handgun hunting and armed self-defense. But I’m not happy with the G20’s malfunction, and my shooting accuracy was just OK. The GLOCK 20 may be my next truck pistol – but not until I’ve exhausted a few other contenders. Suggestions?
May want to correct the “from the Belgian FNX to Springfield’s Smith & Wesson M&P”. Smith & Wesson will not like being labeled a Springfield property, even if just by missed editing.
Oops. Text amended.
S&W is HQ’d in Springfield, Massachusetts, where the Springfield Armory was, for which Springfield Armory, Inc. is named. Yeah, too confusing.
It’s an awesome museum. I recommend anyone who has the stomach to pass through moonbat territory check it out.
What’s moonbat territory?
Disregard — Googled it.
The FNX is US made, not Belgian.
Also of note; the FNX is a traditional DA/SA hammer fired pistol. The FNS is striker-fired (and totally awesome).
The first pistol I bought was an XD because I too had horrible accuracy with the Glock. But on the other hand, Springfield doesn’t make a 10 mm. How about a Coonan .357 mag? Or go old school with a .44 auto mag.
1911 in 10mm. The size, weight and slide mass make it a great shooting 10mm.
Or if you really want the 10mm, a Bren Ten? CZ-esque design and Don Johnson-esque cool.
That might be a good idea if they didn’t cost a fortune and were notorious for tearing themselves apart.
Find a 20C that should cure your muzzle issues on rapid shots and the fire out of the barrel isn’t that obnoxious.
Love my G20SF. The slimmer frame gives most people who don’t have gorilla hands better control. Lone Wolf 6.6″ barrel bumps velocity and has excellent accuracy (plus standard rifling so it’s better suited to hard cast lead hunting bullets). Upgraded recoil spring from LW also reduced the standard deviation in bullet velocity (regardless of barrel installed) by half. The threaded barrel options — could be LW or really any of the GLOCK aftermarket companies that also make quality replacement barrels — also give the ability to install a compensator or a suppressor, should that tickle one’s fancy. If I had a “truck pistol” for this purpose and it was in the center console or glove compartment or whatever, I’d strongly consider a G20SF with extended, threaded barrel + a suppressor. See that hog, grab the pistol, jump out immediately w/out having to put on ear pro, take the shot.
ACTUALLY!!! What am I talking about? Not a G20SF! A G40 MOS!!! JWT, that’s your ticket. G40MOS, optic of your choice, extended & threaded bbl…
For the record, I’m far from a Glock fan. But when it came time to decide on a bear defense handgun to carry in the woods when picking huckleberries — #1 favorite food of black and grizzly bears in these parts — the G20SF was simply the best option for me. Nothing else in 10mm has the capacity in round count combined with the capacity to handle the hottest loads on the market. The polymer frame also seems to absorb more of the recoil than a steel frame (e.g. 1911 in 10mm), so it shoots lighter even though the gun is lighter, and I’m able to keep it on target during rapid firing much better. Gotta love 10mm and, like it or not, the G20 is the most utilitarian, most reliable (I see you had a hitch in your testing, but for the record mine has never choked whether shooting .40 S&W through it w/out any modifications whatsoever or shooting the hottest 10mm on the market up to 220 grain hc), highest-capacity, most adaptable (so much aftermarket support) pistol in the cartridge…
Sf is short frame, for the palm swell and web reduction on the back strap. The frame’s grip width is exactly the same
The G35, G41, or G40 could all be good contenders. The Gen 4 medium grips fit me pretty well. Add a Lone Wolf stainless barrel and you’ll gain accuracy and quality (probably a bit of velocity as well). Energy wise, there isn’t much difference between most 10mm from a 4.6″ barrel vs. .40 “+P” from a 5.3-6″ barrel such as the hot loads from Underwood or Buffalo Bore. Alternatively, you could shoot .40 Smith through a 10mm barrel.
Adding a gun light and a stainless or tungsten recoil spring helps tame recoil. I did exactly that with one of my Glock 23s, which also runs reliably with the .40 – 9mm conversion barrel.
There’s also a 10mm 1911 such as an RIA, as others have suggested. I still think 10mm Glocks are cool.
Looks like I need to try the G40, and maybe a different trigger and a light up front. I like my hunting guns to have a light on them all the time anyway.
The only other good reason to stay with the G20, MechTech upper!
“Console companion compatibility”? That’s a lot of alliteration for an arms aficionado to articulate!
If you’re planning on CC’ing it at times, I haven’t got a suggestion for that. A Desert Eagle in .357 works wonders on deer, and hogs though. 😉
You mean you actually get out of your truck?
Maybe I missed it in the article, but you live in Texas, apparently out of town with property, you know that you regularly run into critters that need to be dispatched, why a pistol? Why not a rifle?
Forgive my ignorance, but in TX, is it legal to carry a loaded rifle inside a moving car?
Up in my present haunts, such behavior is grounds for an iron-rich diet. Alas, I am not in a free state.
Yes, it is.
How about an N-PAP pistol with sig brace? They are quite handy, a pistol, and have plenty of firepower.
Good question! This seems like a better job for a rifle.
I’m with hobbez, why not a rifle? I wonder how many hogs you’ve wounded and watched run away.. If a 223 and similar rifles have trouble with one shot kills on hogs why shoot at them with an inherently weak/inaccurate platform?
The laws are kinda iffy on when shooting from a vehicle is ok and when it’s not. So I’m pleading the 5th here.
But to answer those question about why not a rifle, there are many. First, I always have a rifle in the truck. But to get it out is slow. And sometimes I don’t have that kind of time. Also, a key criteria for my truck pistol is that I have to be able to conceal carry it into town as well. Hence the Model 29 issue.
Get some more range time. It’s very easy to flinch when you don’t have the instant break of a single action revolver trigger. No doubt revolvers have an advantage at longer ranges but you should be able to shoot the glock well with some practice.
SIG now makes a very nice 10mm…perhaps too nice to qualify as a truck gun.
To be honest, I’ve been mixed on the Sigs. I didn’t know they made a 10mm. I’ll look it up and give it a shot. Thanks.
Oh, forgot to answer your question: EAA Witness 10mm and Colt Delta Elite 10mm.
Witness Elite Match ftw.
TTAG should do a review of the witness elite match, the best gun nobody knows about.
I’ve tried hard to get a Witness Stock III in 10mm but it isn’t a gun EAA sends out on loan. A Witness Hunter would also be cool for JWT’s purposes. I could get a loaner of one of the ‘base’ models, but my heart was kinda set on that Stock III. It’s just so damn gorgeous.
BUT…we’re now into pistols that are way, way more expensive than a G20 as may not be as long-term reliable/durable with full-house 10mm loads. Plus the Glock holds 1 more round. And IMHO shoots hot 10mm softer. And there’s a bigger aftermarket for barrels, springs, triggers, sights, optics, holsters, etc…
Oh and RE William’s post, the Colt Delta Elite doesn’t have a ramped barrel and apparently cannot handle full power 10mm loads. Since the Glock is lighter, stronger, higher capacity, much less money, etc, a different 10mm choice is a hard sell when it comes to utility…
Jeremy S, since I can’t respond directly to you I’ll respond to myself:
The stock II or elite match or limited match are worth buying for the collection/review… it’s a write-off right? Ahaha. The elite match isn’t crazily expensive because it’s just SAO and has that same custom-slide-to-frame fit that us tanfoglio owners love …..
Probably the sweetest shooting guns in existence to be honest. And extremely reliable. I am a glock guy and I think my Elite match is more reliable than my glocks!
Don’t get the base model witness… they probably won’t let you get the higher ones for free because they are Hand fitted from a “custom shop,” but try to work something out. I bet the review would get them a lot of sales because those things are freaking insane. Like if a CZ porked a Les Baer and had an offspring that was better than both.
I’m a reloader and the benefit of a 10mm is when you really push it. The Delta Elite has a problem with that. However, Wilson Combat can fix that for you. They did for a friend of mine, and it really sings. But dang, that’s getting really pricey. I may do it anyway. I have a Colt Combat Elite I adore.
Ok, since you asked:
If you had asked what pistol you could use to humanely take game at 100yds, I would have pointed you to a big revolver, but you already tried that. If you want that sort firepower in a smaller size, how about a .460 Rowland? It delivers roughly .44 mag ish performance on a service pistol. They make slides for XD and 1911 (and Glock but you said you don’t like the grip angle). That’s what I came up with FWIW.
If the recoil doesn’t bother you then keep it. if you want better accuracy with hard cast loads you will want to switch to a Storm Lake or Lonewolf barrel. I have never seen one lock up the slide like that. Could you tell if the bullet was bound on the lip of the feed ramp? It could have been loaded too long on its OAL (overall case length) causing it to hang up as it did.
I love my Glock 29 in 10mm.
There are so many ads on this site that it took me 3 tries to load the page. The sad thing is that I’m on a new mac using Chrome. Get it together TTAG. I can appreciate generating revenue from ads but it’s too much when it’s at the cost of your readers.
Adblock Plus will solve your issues. and its free.
RF shitcanning his deal with the ad company (they violate the agreement not to do autoplay video every single day, so he can nuke those assholes for breach of contract anytime he wants) would work better.
Free ad block software, though it seems to work, must be doing SOMETHING you probably wouldn’t like (like being a piece of spyware, perhaps), or they’d not give it away for free.
The software is supported via donations.
https://adblockplus.org/en/about
Plenty of independent programmers have crawled through the code and found nothing malicious. There has been at least one Chrome extension that did contain spyware that I recall. HoverZoom IIRC.
Either way, I shouldn’t have to manipulate my browser just to read an article.
The makers get money from donations and commonly whitelisted ad sources, particularly Google. There’s no spyware or malware in Adblock Plus whatsoever; it’s a script plugin, not an executable program.
Kyle: There’s a lot of things we shouldn’t have to do, but if there’s a way around them, may as well shrug and do it.
I’ll stand corrected re AdBlock. I do use it where I can, and I am relieved.
The rest I’ll continue to stand by. Shitcan the ad provider!
@ Kyle –
“Either way, I shouldn’t have to manipulate my browser just to read an article.”
The very best things in life often require a bit of work…
🙂
Steve, you understand TTAG is a business, right? And you are getting it for free. So, where does the money come from? More and more news and entertainment sites are using ads, and much more intrusive than the ad-marketing partner TTAG uses.
There have been so many posts suggesting Ad-Blocker, etc, that I cant count.
Kyle, c’mon dude. It ain’t rocket science to “manipulate” your browser, its along the lines of turning the keys in your car, flipping the safety on/off on gun, etc.
At some point, the casual observer has to wonder what is YOUR problem…just saying.
AR15 pistol in 458 socom, and a XX-Large shirt
I thought of that, too. I was thinking 300 blk since he didn’t mention trouble with elephants.
Loves me some .458SOCOM SBR. Stll can’t wear it on my hip concealed.
You may know what, and just don’t want to say, but “je _ne_ sais quoi”…
But he does know what and he did say. “Specifically, 9mm isn’t enough cartridge…”
Exactly, and no one got that joke. Le tear.
I’d recommend a S&W 1006 or1076 accuracy with my 1006 is very good, and it hasn’t jammed since the early 90s , the down sides are it’s heavier than a Glock, and holds 9 in the magazine.
Pretty sure the Glock manual (the book you get that nobody reads) says not to use hard cast projectiles because it can cause issues. Just my $.02
Yeah. What about this^? Isn’t anybody paying attention?
I don’t have the maual, but is that true for all Glocks? Including the G20 and G40? If so, it would completely negate it as a hunting pistol. Hard cast round are the only proven round I know of for game. Expansion is ok. Penetration is king for hunting. In the word’s of Mr. Linebaugh, “the pistol round is a long range punch press.”
Jon,
That statement is for all pistols with polygonal rifling. Cast bullets just don’t perform well with polygonal rifling. To my knowledge, all Glocks are polygonal rifled. I am sure you can get aftermarket barrels for them I guess.
Also. I am sure you can use cast bullets in a Glock for a few rounds but those who have experience with such advise there is accelerated fouling and you’ll have a lengthy time cleaning your pistol. Hard cast may be ok as the bullet is very hard (~20-30 Brinell).
Gen4 or SF makes the big bore glocks a lot nicer. I don’t know why anyone would pick the chunkier gripped models.
Hands come in a variety of sizes…
Yes they do but is there anyone out there that prefers the older gen grip on the 45/10 guns? Switch to SF/gen4 and it will be hard to go back.
I have a suggestion. Can we quit with the vulgar language in posts? We know what bovine excitement is. We know all about the old familiar suggestion. It’s like hearing cuss words coming from the preacher. After a sermon or two, you start looking for a new church. Clean it up folks.
“I have three things to say today. First, while you were sleeping last night, 30,000 kids died of starvation or diseases caused by malnutrition. Second, most of you don’t give a shit. What’s worse is that you’re more upset about the fact that I said ‘shit’ than the fact that 30,000 kids died last night.” — Preacher Tony Campolo
I’d go to his church, because he’s wise enough to pick his battles.
What’s next? Grammar or spelling corrections? I have a suggestion, go correct your own children. Oh wait, I think I see some kids on your lawn…..
“What’s next? Grammar or spelling corrections?”
I hope so, because I’m pretty sure our bluenose friend was trying to say bovine “excrement”.
Maybe bovines excite him
Maybe bovine excrement excites him.
Oh Jesus Fucking Christ. Are we really going bitch about the fact that someone said shit and it’s causing you to have a stick up your ass? If you can’t take a little harsh language then maybe you should go find a liberal website where you can talk about being offended by big boy words.
I don’t think stupid people should have guns either.
I am still of the opinion that profanity is an ignorant mind trying to express itself forcefully.
It takes all types to make the world go round, but IMHO the phrase “Trash Talk” refers to the speaker rather what the speaker is saying.
That language would get you fired from my workplace, kicked out of my house, or get you frogmarched out the door if around young children.
I’m on the side of less trash talk. You can get trash talk anywhere on the innertubz.
Profanity has its place, but best when used rarely. I’m guilty as the next, so I will work on my own self.
I much prefer wit, like Raphs, JWTs, johnwaynetaylors, Tom in Oregon, A81, Dyspeptic and many others.
That keeps me coming back.
A “clean, well lit room” (~ Hemingway,) is what RF wrote once, about the goal for the feel here at TTAG.
Just my 4.02
The slide locked back with the round sitting flush in the magazine, not pushing forward at all. “Tap” did nothing. Removing the magazine yielded similar non-results. I reloaded and racked, putting the round in the chamber.
I suspect accidental activation of slide stop by user.
Look closer, you can see it is not resting on the slide stop.
Sure looks like it.
The angle of the stop in the “malfunction” pic is considerably higher, than the 1st pic with the weapon in battery.
I suspect your suspicions are suspect.
Run it through ballistics, it’s the same gun. Book ’em Danno.
I think it’s ++P due to the double-taps overseating those cheap lead projectile rounds in the bottom of the mag.
I had a hard time reading past that part where you gave away your Beretta [even to a worthy cause and a future good home] : 0
But, oh well. Did u clean the darn thing 3x before shooting, then 3 more times before “shooting.”
Glocks ain’t my bag baby, but they’s are definitely like anything ‘Taurus’. They just seem to sweat this Cosmoline-like cr_p for a month or two. and the feed ramp’ll look ‘clean’ but then you run a q-tip up and down it and it leaves fuzz where it is still slightly sticky.
“So a 6″ group standing at 25 yards isn’t horrible for me. It’s . . . mediocre.”
Bigger rounds should have tighter groups, in the middle. ; P
Yeah, it is hard to imagine how rich I would need to be to give away a Wilson combat for free.
Or buy a WC 92 in the first place. Lol.
Well, would it be really rubbing it in if I told you that I was ok giving away this one because I have another one I like more?
Suggestions?
Why not the FNX you mentioned? 15rds of 45ACP goodness can’t be too bad for feral vermin of the 2 and 4 legged variety. I haven’t gotten a chance to use mine on any pigs at the ranch but it seems like a good lead flat point or semi wadcutter would turn the lights off just fine for pigs and deer.
That or I guess wait for the release of the Sig 220 in 10mm. I for one am quite excited about that one.
I don’t trust .45 ACP for promptly stopping hogs. Can it kill them? Sure … eventually. I watched a video of a hunter who had supposedly shot a hog with a rifle of some sort. He approached the last known location and found the hog still standing. The hog saw him and began advancing on him. He had a full-size handgun chambered in .45 ACP. He had to shoot that hog (already suffering a wound from a rifle) something like 7 times at less than 20 feet to finally kill it. And the shot that stopped it appeared to be a central nervous system hit because it immediately fell on its side and started twitching. Had the hog been at full strength (not suffering from a rifle wound), I believe it may have seriously messed up that hunter if all he had was that hand gun.
I think .357 Magnum / 10mm — with LONG barrels — are the minimum calibers for shooting large hogs … and I like .44 Magnum (with LONG barrels) a lot better.
That story sounds like equal parts of failure in bullet selection and just simple biology of a wounded animal.
Bullet selection because hollow points from any standard pistol round (except for maybe hornady XTP or similar) will expand way too much in a game animal and this under penetrate. Equally a 45acp fmj is um… Less than ideal because while it will penetrate its round nose won’t get you much tissue disruption. That’s why I caveated the above with “lead flat point or semi wadcutter” either of those loaded to reasonable pressure would put a hog down just about as quick as anything else you would be carrying short of a rifle.
There’s also the biology of a wounded animal, it has been shot once so has probably lost a considerable amount of blood and if it wasn’t a good double lung or direct heart shot, some of that has coagulated somewhat delaying impending death. wild animals have incredible anaerobic muscle performance so that translates into a lot of steam for running even with a mortal rifle wound. Couple that with the chemical fight or flight response and simple perforation of blood bearing vital organs is no longer going to do the trick, at least not as quickly. So what the guy in your story learned was that it very often takes a direct hit to the CNS to take the animal down at that point.
Nailed it. The .45ACP can hunt, but only with the right bullet. I’ve shot big pigs with a HP round, only to watch them run away forever. I’ve had the same shot with a hart cast SWC and watched it slam through bone and put them down. And to be clear, those shots are usually taken within 30 yards.
“I think .357 Magnum / 10mm — with LONG barrels — are the minimum calibers for shooting large hogs … and I like .44 Magnum (with LONG barrels) a lot better.”
To me, a lever action (preferably in stainless) in .357 or .44 mag is the quintessential truck gun…
I miss my .357 lever gun. It increased the round velocity a lot.
By any account you’re a 1911 guy, if the reviews in the past are to be believed. I’d say a 10mm 1911 is in the future. Your pick of manufacturer.
Get your thumb away from the slide lock. Not then guns fault. Have a good day.
Gregg, you are quite trigger happy. Did you pay attention to the photo showing the slide clearly NOT resting on its lock? Have nice day
The angle of the stop in the “malfunction” pic is considerably higher, than the 1st pic with the weapon in battery.
Is that Glock 20 that you were shooting brand new? It may have jammed because it wasn’t broken in yet. Also, you may have had a cartridge that was out of specification as another poster suggested. And it could potentially jam because something is wrong with the magazine that you were using. As if that wasn’t enough, you may not enough oil/grease on the rails and slide. This is the down side to semi-auto pistols — there is more that can go wrong and it takes more shooting to be confident that the pistol-magazine system will be reliable.
As for the Glock grip not being comfortable, have you ever handled a Glock with a grip adapter? The one I handled with a grip adapter felt just as comfortable and natural as the Smith and Wesson M&P series.
Yeah ill second the SIG p220 in 10mm. Different grip and grip angle with the full metal frame to add weight to manage recoil.
In my humble opinion, a Ruger GP100 with 6″ barrel would be an excellent truck gun.
It’s certainly a vastly superior “pointer” to the Glock.
Unless of course, you are one of those who doesn’t find the Glock points high, in which case the GP100 will probably point low and suck as a pointer.
Glock angle is good because it pronates your hands and uses musculoskeletal support!
Learn to love it, if possible. I am more accurate with glocks than with many guns that should have better mechanical accuracy.
Dry-fire 100x a day!
Dry-fire 100x a day!
This is the key. I find that even natural pointers require lots of trigger time for me to actually hit what I’m aiming at.
Ten Em Em! If I were shooting a ten I’d want a steel frame. Maybe the Sig when it comes out, or any of the 1911 options currently available, especially if you’re after accuracy. Shoot, you can use the same holsters!
Isn’t there a law against writing a bad review about a Glock, or something?
There is an ordinance requiring Glock fans to plug their ears and sing “LA-LA-LA-I-CAN’T-HEAR-YOOOUU!!” whenever someone reports experiencing a malfunction with one, but I don’t think it’s strictly enforced.
I had miserable accuracy with two different 10mm Doubletap loads but very good results with several other brands out of a 20SF. Try a few more loads and see if you can’t find one that your pistol likes.
Never tried the American eagle because I have read poor reviews. PMC and Prvi work well for me although the former barks a little loud and the latter is a bit dirty.
sig 220 in 10mm
How do I follow Mr. Taylor’s search for the gun he wants? I’m interested to find out where he ends up.
My truck gun is a Kel Tec Sub2K in .40 S&W. should stop a hog.
Any chance you just accidentally fouled the slide stop with your support hand causing the premature slide lock?
I shoot mostly 1911’s but rock a 20 for gun games periodically and it lives on my hip in the woods. I’ve had a couple of malfunctions like the one you show caused by what I believe to be running your strong hand high on the frame and having the support hand drive your strong hand thumb north into the slide catch on recoil. If you get a chance try a gen4 with the medium beavertail grip installed.
If you feel like you are driving the muzzle too much, a little extra weight up front made a world of difference for me. Take a look at a lone wolf stainless guide rod and spring assembly. Adds a few ounces up front and has helped me keep it absolutely flat with 180 grain 40’s, and noticeably flatter on hot 220’s.
Also, take a look at a mectec 10mm upper, might give you another humane option for hogs at 100 if you can afford it and it gives you a straightforward optics platform if you need/want glass.
Hopefully you handload, this is where you can really explore what a 10mm cartridge can do for you as commercial offerings are somewhat lacking in my experience. 10mm is a great caliber out of a 16″ barrel as well as 4.5″. Get sick of 10, play around with 9×25 dillon. Don’t have that much time (or money to burn on brass), run factory 40’s and just train. Want to run 40 super? It’ll take that too. I’ve been able to reliably run very mild to very hot loads out of my glock with no change in recoil spring weight.
I’m not expert but the 20 has to be one of the most versatile handguns out there with an outstanding accessory eco-system.
My choice would be a Smith and Wesson M&P R8, an eight round, .357 magnum revolver. Never know when you might also need a couple of rounds of snake shot, especially in Texas.
Sorry about your experience JWT.
I love my 20sf.
Different strokes, brother. Hey, aren’t you slaying dragons in the Dark Continent?
The large Glocks benefit from a little lubrication, particularly during break in. Forces are much higher than the 9mm or .40 caliber guns experience. Think you will find galling between the stainless frame inserts and the slide travel rails. This only gets worse with use. A very light coating of molybdenum disulphide NLGI #2 grease has worked well for me on Glock 20’s.
A Glock 29 with Silvertips is my carry gun and it gives up little in accuracy to the Glock 20. A 1911 6 inch longslide in 10mm, well tuned, is my hunting pistol with the same Silvertips. Works well beyond 100 yards on deer. But no hog experience up here in Michigan.
I hate the glock grip as well. At first I thought it was the grip angle but after buying a Steyr M9 I realized it’s not the angle at all. My discomfort with the grip is caused by the profile of the back of the grip. It curves inward at the tang (like most pistols) and then stays there until the last 1-2″ where it flares back out. The Steyr in comparison, curves in at the tang but then immediately curves back out giving the meat of your palm something to rest on.
Of course with enough practice anybody can get comfortable with anything but when I was first learning to shoot I just naturally stayed away from the Glock grip. I believe if I tried something like the Grip Force Adapter it would fix the issue but I’ve never had the chance. If I was ever going to buy a Glock it would be the 20, it’s one of the most unique yet useful pistols they produce.
For your one slide lock stoppage I have noticed a tendency with high recoil combos for the strong side thumb to autotragically lock the slide back by applying force somehow to slide lock lever. In my experience it’s been on a glock 27 with full self defense loads. Both times it’s happens to me the recoil caused my grip to lock the slide back on a loaded mag.
I’ve heard of that but haven’t experienced it. All my G27 mags have extensions, which makes the gun much more shootable, and it doesn’t twist about in the hand.
After solving the random slide lock problem on my Glock 20, the issue became timing using full-power loads. I fiddled with recoil springs and magazine springs and had override ftfs that never did go away. Traded the Glock 20 for a Dan Wesson RZ-10. That needed a bit of grinding on the slide stop to fix the well-documented last round problem, but it’s 100% now, and concealable and as accurate as any tight 1911. AND it’s ramped barrel and supported chamber let it use full-power loads without destroying brass.
EAA Witness. The newer one’s with the updated mags should be good to go. Just swap out the recoil spring if you plan on shooting the heavy stuff.
I only paid $475 for mine brand new and has been the most accurate, smooth firing pistol I ever used.
7 1/2″ barrel .45 Colt SAA (or clone or Ruger) with full power hard cast flat nose bullets. It’ll drop a horse, so it should manage a hog well enough.
Didn’t Sig just announce a10mm? They make some nice guns.
JWT: what do you think about using a S&W Model 69 (L-frame .44 magnum, 5 shots), or a S&W 329PD (scandium N-frame, titanium cylinder .44 magnum, 6 shots)?
I am intrigued. Since S&W will be at the TFF, maybe I can shoot at model 69 there. TTAG genie make it so!
If I were looking for a 10mm it would be a Sig P220. I understand that the Match Elite Reverse Two-Tone, Stainless Elite, Stainless Elite Nitron, and Hunt Ready versions of the P220 will be available in 10mm soon if they’re not already.
As another poster mentioned there’s a lot be said for the DEagle in .357 Mag for pigs, but I couldn’t conceal one to save my life.
Love my 20SF. I wish wish wish that there were an HK45 in 10mm. It would all my beefs with the Glock ergonomics.
Relevant questions here: How much money are we talking and is hand loading a possibility?
Never shot these guns just thinking out loud here.
You could go .327 Fed its a dying caliber buy you can still shoot h&r mag, long, and short. Ruger makes a revolver in it. Hand loading would/could help alot here.
As mentioned already you could go for a 10mm sig. Or . . .
I do not see why a flat nosed FMJ .357 sig cannot get the job done. A few choices there including sig & glock.
Glocks are just too picky in my opinion. I went through a police academy years ago, and some other “trainees” in our group had Glock 9mm pistols (model 17 or 19 if I recall correctly).
Anyway, I ended up trading ammo with them because they kept encountering failure-to-feed problems, the breach (or “chamber”) had too tight of an inside diameter. My Ruger KP89 fed their ammo with no problem. I could dunk my pistol in mud and fire without failure-to-feed.
I was using Fiochi 147 grain, theirs looked like generic hand-loads (they came loose in plastic bags and had bulges in the cartridges, looked to me more like .380 bullets), but they said they were told by the store owner that it was factory ammo.
I also think the 9mm slide spring is too soft, but maybe the 10mm is stiffer?
With respect, that is about as anecdotal a story of glock unreliability as possible..
I had a Ghost Inc armorer go through my G20’s trigger getting rid of the squishy uptake, over travel and giving it a short reset. I shoot Buffalo Bore and Underwood as carry ammo. The only ammo I like from the big ammo makers ironically is the Winchester 175 gr Silver Tip Hollow point. It is a lot hotter than the Federal, Remington etc.
I love my 1006 & EAA 10mm, friend of friend needed to make hid house payment last night S&W 1076 with 6 magazines & 400 rounds factory ammo. He needed $425 for the rest of his payment. Ammo in 50round box@ $14.95 price sticker. 50Yards the hog cutout rang like a bell with the 5″ barrel. The compact picked up at 20yards.
I’d check out an EAA Witness Tangfolio. I found it fits my hand very well. It’s next on my list!
Witness match or limited are really the bees kneez.
On the lookout for one. The CZ75 is one of my all time favorite guns, so if it’s anything close I’ll probably like it.
EAA witness is a modifed CZ clone. They even offer 10mm and in all steel no doubt.
http://eaacorp.com/hand-guns/
All steel right here:
http://eaacorp.com/portfolio-item/witness-hunter/
http://eaacorp.com/portfolio-item/witness-steel-full-size/
I run a M&P 40 fullsize and love it. I also have a M&P 45 that I carry at times. I am much more accurate with the 45 but it is also slightly longer in the slide department than the 40.
If I was worried about knockdown power and wanted to stay in a semi auto that is concealable I would start looking at the 45super http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.45_Super You will just need a donor to convert over to heavier springs and then you should have the best of both worlds, a pistol with the correct grip angle and reliability with a more powerful large round that is fast to do on the go reloads.
The phrase is “je NE sais quoi,” not, “je sais quoi.”
Perhaps an Armscor 1911 in 10MM? I have the 9MM/.22TCM 1911, the Tac Ultra FS HC combo (a mouthful, I know), and am quite happy with the quality of the piece, especially at the price point. The only gotcha is that, as far as I’m aware, they only make single stack magazine models, so it would lack the capacity of the Glock, but in most cases, 8-9 rounds should be sufficient.
A terrier and a Mill paragraph? Forget the cussing reading this is torture…like a horrible high school newspaper article……
I would be interested in seeing how the STI Perfect 10 ranked as a truck gun. I’ve even seen a 5in version called the Nitro 10 that is a double stack. 2 options that might be considered if there isn’t a budget.
I have a Dan Wesson Razorback 1911 in 10mm and it is a dream to shoot.
I would suggest you shoot Premium load shells. That was most likely your jam problem. I also suggest you shoot from 500 to 800 rounds through the weapon before making such rash remarks that way. That will give your arm and shoulders some time to adjust. I own a SIG 226. Desert 50Cal. and a .357 Revolver. The Glock is by far the most reliable and accurate for me. I live in the West Kootneys Canada. I hunt of my horse and wouldn’t leave home with out The G20.