“A Revolver? Really?” Yeah, I’ve heard that a time or two over the past years. Now I don’t hate automatic pistols. Really, I don’t. I own a very nice Glock that serves as my primary CCW weapon. But as I’ve said here before, an automatic pistol is a machine. A fine revolver, on the other hand, is a work of art.
Not only that, revolvers (like lever action rifles) are indefinably and unabashedly American. Oh, sure, there were German RGs and British Webleys, as well as a sprinkling of other revolving cylinder guns made in the late 19th and early 20th centuries in Europe, but revolvers persisted here in American long after the Euros and Asians had switched to semi autos. While French Gendarmes were equipped with Brownings and German Polezei were carrying Walther P1s or HK P7s, American cops were still packing their reliable Double Action wheelguns in the land of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
My very first handgun was a revolver, a Colt Trooper Mk III. I’ve always had a weakness for a good revolver, and revolvers don’t get much better than the mid 50’s to Mid-80’s double-action K-frame Smith and Wessons.
For those shooters under 40 who may not be familiar with S&W products, they group their Double Action (DA) revolvers into categories based on frame sizes indicated by a letter of the alphabet. The smallest are the J-frames which are available in calibers up to .357 and are most popularly known as the type of snub-nosed pocket gun favored by TV detectives of the 60’s and 70’s.
At the opposite end of the spectrum is the terrifying X-frame, home to the massive .500 S&W. Next down is the large N frame, which carried both the legendary Model 29 in .44 Magnum of Dirty Harry fame (“feel lucky, punk?”), as well as the very first .357 Magnum cartridges (the Highway Patrol and similar types, later designated as the Model 27 and 28.) Slightly smaller is the large-but-not-gigantic L frame, which introduced the full-underlug 586 and 686 revolvers in the 1980s as a kind of “poor man’s Colt Python.”
And finally, continuing down we come to the medium K Frame. From roughly 1899 when it was introduced as the “Third Model Hand Ejector” until the late 1980’s when police departments began trading their revolvers for automatics, the K-frame was the most commonly used police and private security firearm, by a wide margin. Made in a variety of calibers from .22 through .357, the K-frame was the “standard” by which other revolvers were judged. Even Colt, with its legendary history of revolver making, never had more than a fraction of the K-frame’s market.
I’ve owned at least one K frame revolver since I was 22, and have a real affection for them. The size is big enough to feel stout and sturdy, but not so big as to be oversized or bulky. The factory grip frame (in either square or round butt configuration) is small enough to fit most hands and because of the K-frame’s near-century as top dog, aftermarket grip choices are virtually unlimited.
So it seems police departments and security firms are “modernizing” their arsenals and putting their old revolvers out to pasture. Which is good for people like me who love these old K-frame guns.
Initially, I thought a J-frame 642 would be the perfect home defense gun for my wife and I, so I bought one, new, at a local Big Box store. But a few sessions at the range disabused us of that notion. As Ralph points out in his review of the 642, it’s not a tool for a beginner. The small size of the 642, while making it very concealable, also makes it harder to control. For that reason, I put the 642 up for sale and started shopping for a K Frame. An old Army buddy put me on to J&G sales of Prescott, AZ. Apparently J&G has been buying up surplused-out guns for a while and selling them on-line.
Among their large S&W offerings were a dizzying variety of Model 64s. In S&W parlance, a “6” at the beginning of a model number denotes a stainless steel gun. The Model 64, then, is the stainless steel version of the blued Model 10: .38 Special caliber, fixed sights, 4” barrel.
Aesthetically, I have a preference for blue steel, and I live far enough from the coast for salt air to be a non-issue, but it’s hard to argue with the utility of a stainless finish. Besides which, the price was right: For a “Very good condition” 64, $289.00 + shipping was just too good a deal to pass up (go shopping for a new Smith and Wesson K-frame revolver and you’ll appreciate just what a deal that is.) $20 to my local FFL dealer later and I was the proud owner of one of Smith and Wesson’s finest.
These particular 64’s must have belonged to a nervous police department or risk-averse private security company, as all of them had been converted to Double Action Only (DAO), that is, it is not possible to manually cock the hammer. In fact, most of them have ‘bobbed’ hammers (with no hammer spur.) This is fine for me as DA is the only way such a revolver should be used for self defense anyway. The bobbed hammer also makes it easier to draw from concealment.
As for the caliber, some shooters turn their nose up at the “anemic” .38 Special, but as far as I’m concerned, it was good enough for the cops for the better part of the 20th century, so it’s good enough for me. I’m not looking to “blow [someone’s] head clean off” (in Dirty Harry parlance), I just want to be able to defend myself and my family. Given that .38 is more or less ballistically similar to 9mm, modern .38 Special HP rounds in +P configuration should be more than adequate for the task.
(A note on caliber: Some might say that you shouldn’t shoot +P rounds in a gun not specifically rated for them. If this were a pre-WWII M&P, or an extremely lightweight alloy gun like an older Airweight, I might agree. However, this is a stainless steel K-Frame revolver made some time in the 1970’s or 80’s. It has virtually the same frame as the Model 65 and 66, which will shoot full-power .357 Magnum loads. I also know that the +P round itself was specifically developed as a round for medium-frame police revolvers like this one. Based on that, I have no concerns about using +P rounds in this revolver.)
Upon inspection, it was obvious that this was a used gun. Not abused, but definitely not coddled, either. Scratches and small nicks abound, especially on the side of the (heavy) barrel. Of course, I knew I was getting a used gun and certainly didn’t expect a museum piece for under three hundred bucks. The good news was that the lockup was tight, there was no excessive play in the crane or in the cylinder, and the mechanism seemed to function properly.
The Naked Gun: Stripped of its Hogue grip, you can see the leaf spring that makes the K-frame such a smooth shooter
Taking it to the range, we found the trigger pull to be pleasantly smooth. Heavy, yes, long, yes, but smoooooooth like butter, just as a good K frame should be. We didn’t have time to do long range testing (and really, that would be like evaluating the trailer-pulling capability of a Miata) but for 7 yards, I’d have to say minute-of-bad-guy was as accurate as it needs to be. This one came with a finger-grooved Hogue Monogrip identical to the one I put on my Model 19. Not nearly as pretty as the gorgeous Goncalo Alves wood grip (that came on the 19 from the factory,) but much more comfortable and practical.
This one seemed to consistently group slightly to the left. All shots were offhand, rapid fire, from 7 yards, using a mix of handloaded 158gr Wadcutters and factory 158gr RN jacketed bullets. (disregard the “keyholes” at 6 and 9 o’clock on the above target, those were from a Taurus .22 that is having problems.)
Operation was flawless and there was no excessive “shaving” of rounds (and indication that a revolver is “out of time”, i.e., the cylinder is not lining up correctly with the bore.) The fixed sights, of course, are less than stellar, but adequate for self-defense, and unlike adjustable sights, these won’t snag on a pocket or shirt tail.
Overall it’s hard to beat this one for value. You can spend three hundred big boys on a POS High Point or a Spanish knockoff of a 1911, or you can spend it on a slightly used example of one of the finest defensive handguns ever made. Your choice.
SPECIFICATIONS
Model: Smith & Wesson Model 64
Caliber: .38 Special +P
Cylinder capacity: 6 rounds
Materials: Stainless Steel
Weight empty: 36 ounces (2.25 lb)
Barrel Length: 4″
Overall length: 9″
Sights: Integral front, fixed rear
Action: Double action only
Finish: Stainless
Price: $289 (used, Very Good condition from J&G Sales in Prescott, AZ) http://www.jgsales.com
RATINGS (out of five stars)
Style * * * * *
What can you say about the most classic DA revolver design of the (20th) century? This one is right up there with the M1911 and the Colt SAA as one of the most iconic and influential gun designs in history.
Ergonomics (carry) * * *
Not the greatest for concealed carry, though far from the worst. With the right kind of holster and a smooth grip (easily changed with a screwdriver) you can conceal one of these pretty easy beneath street clothes.
Ergonomics (firing) * * * * *
Large grip means easy to control. Heavy enough to absorb recoil but light enough not to fatigue even a novice shooter. Balance and handling are exquisite. This is an excellent beginner gun and much more “newbie friendly” than an automatic.
Reliability * * * * *
Pretty much every cop in the US carried some variation of this on his or her hip from the 1900’s all the way into the 1980s. It wouldn’t have lasted that long if not for its legendary reliability. No safety levers to fiddle with, no pesky locks, no loaded-chamber-indicator needed. There’s a reason Smith and Wesson has been called the world’s first “point and shoot” interface.
Customize This * * *
Depends on what you mean by “customize.” K-frame grips are probably the most commonly available revolver grips on the market, even two decades after its heyday. Laser grips are even available. And of course, for reloading, speedloaders are available.
Now, if you’re the sort of shooter who needs an ACOG, a ballistic computer, or a cup holder for your latte, well, never mind because you probably aren’t even reading this review.
OVERALL RATING * * * * *
As an unabashed revolver lover and an admitted Smith and Wesson bigot, my rating should be taken with a grain of salt. Put another way, I can’t recommend this pistol highly enough. Sure, It’s not as sexy as the latest plastic fantastic automatic but it will still be shooting when those polymer pistols have been relegated to the recycle bin.
AUTHOR’S NOTE: It’s gratifying to me to see all my fellow revolver lovers coming out of the closet in the comments below. For a while I was afraid this site was too 1911/Springfield/Glock-centric to welcome those of us who regard revolving cylinder guns as anything other than an anachronism.
A stellar review for a stellar gun. As a devoted S&W weenie, I agree with everything your wrote. Hell, I’d give the Model 64 an overall rating of 5 1/2 stars. Except for the incredible Colt Python, you can’t do better than a K-frame. At $289, shoot it like you stole it, ’cause you did.
As to shooting +P loads, S&W advises thusly: “This ammunition should not be used in Smith & Wesson medium (K-frame) revolvers manufactured prior to 1958. Such pre-1958 medium (K-frame) revolvers can be identified by the absence of a model number stamped inside the yoke cut of the frame . . . .”
K-Frame is one of the best guns ever made. Perfect size.
Great review; at this price I might suddenly ‘need’ one! Let me also put in a good word for J&G Sales, who have always provided good service, good prices, and prompt shipping.
Here I go again extolling the virtues and value of a historical, classic, and venerable
American handgun: the K-Frame Smith and Wesson revolver. Aside from the double-
action only “bobbed hammer” the S&W K-Frame .38 Special/.357 Magnum revolver,
whether the original Model 10 or varients like the Models 15/67, 19/66 or whatever
with 4″ to 6″ barrel, remains perhaps the most practical and versatile handgun for the
average citizen. This includes the person owning but one handgun, the citizen purchasing his or her first handgun, etc. And not only for self defense/house protection. Also, for the great outdoors. The .38 Special 148 grain lead target wadcutter (next to a .22 or .32) remains tops for hunting small game: rabbit and squirrel. Also, for dispatching vermin: raccoon, skunk, or possum. CCI’s classic snake
or “shot load” containing No. 9 shot is lethal on rattlesnakes with a head shot up close.
Also, for butchering livestock. A K-Frame Smith and Wesson .38/.357 is a comforting
companion for fishing, hiking, backpacking, camping, picking wild berries, plums, or
for taking along on a road trip. The only alteration to such is perhaps to replace the
skimpy factory S&W Magna grips (once standard on the Model 10) with a pair of
Pachmayr or Uncle Mikes hard rubber combat grips. Like the Winchester Model 1897
“hammer” pump shotgun, the .300 Savage, and other classic vintage firearms, I adore
older Smith and Wesson revolvers owning four of them myself.
I previously mentioned the .38 Special 148 grain lead target wadcutter and it’s uses.
Lets talk about modern .38 Special ammo. For all practical purposes the old 158
grain lead round nosed police service load is obsolete, though the .38 Special itself
certainly isn’t. Modern .38 Special loading for defense include: Federal’s 129 grain
“Hydra-Shok” (+P), Winchester’s 125 grain Silvertip Hollowpoint (+P), and finally
Remington’s 125 grain Golden Saber (+P). And don’t forget the Glaser Safety Slug
either. For the apartment, condo, or urban dweller Glasers, though expensive, are
designed to empty their energy into a felon, and not to penetrate through walls
thus endangering the innocent.
The biggest drawback to this gun in terms of ammo is that for some reason the Commies/Former Commies out there don’t make boatloads of it in bulk. For that reason alone, it costs 1.5 times as much to shoot this with factory loads as it does to shoot my Glock.
On the flip side, there may be a cartridge that’s easier to reload than the .38 special, but I’ve never heard of it. Loading up a box of wadcutters costs me less than five bucks as powder consumption is minimal (I think I use about 3gr of Bullseye.)
As a plus, those .38SPL dies can be turned out 1.5 revolutions and used to load .357 mag.
I guess I’m the Imelda Marcos of k-frames. My current inventory is 3 M15’s (Combat Masterpiece .38) 1 2″ and 2 4″, 2 M14’s (k38 Masterpiece) (one each 6″ and 8 3/8″) a m18 (.22 Combat Masterpiece) (4″), and a 6″ m17 (k22). I also have a 2″ M10 and a m64 exactly as described, except it has a round butt. Oh, and a 6″ M48 .22 Magnum Masterpiece.
These are the finest belt guns in existence for knocking around in the woods. I need to start gathering m19’s before the supply completely dries up. I was picking them up in the 90’s for chicken feed, and prices remained low through 2005 or so, but the price on good clean used ones have skyrocketed lately.
They are as fine a beginner’s gun as exists. If you are helping a female pick out a first or only gun, let HER make the decision, but make sure she gets an opportunity to handle or shoot one of these, especially the round butt version.
Bingo. 😉
This gun is actually intended for my better half and she loves it.
Sir, I will make it my mission in life to surpass you! 😀
love my k frame 547 .
Is that the 9mm? Man, I had forgotten about those. Hmmm…a K frame that can shoot dirt-cheap imported ammo… Now you’ve really got me thinking, and no doubt my bank account will be all the worse for it. 😉
Martin:
Centerfire Systems sells copper-washed lead .38s for $8 or $9 a box (plus shipping) which rivals the price of all but the the cheapest 9mms. At those kind of prices I quit handloading (to spend more time shooting) and start buying commercial again.
I picked up a Model 10 with heavy barrel from J&G Sales a couple months ago after seeing a sales paper. It was $229 and after shipping and transfer was about $270 and still a steal. While it is not a weapon system I prefer I have to give it its props. It wasn’t till that Model 10 that I started actually getting down to business with a revolver and not just passable accuracy. My 686+ that I owned for two years and the Colt Python I learned on as well as a Taurus .357 simply did not suit me the way my obviously well-loved Model 10 does for a full-size wheelgun. I like the balance of the heavy barrel over the overly heavy front feel of the 686 and the wood grips on the Colt really punished my formerly virgin hands.
Not my arm of choice but loaded and waiting in the safe, ready to go. Much respect to the Model 10, a weapon from the age when revolvers were the thing to beat with good reason.
I’m sorry. I just can not warm up to those recycled water bottles or combat tupperware or whatever the latest thing is. Give me my old 1911, a nice single action, or a nice old Smith. I do not like these crazy modern guns.
Just bought a s&w 64-1 like the one above. Couldnt be happier. Using it as my home defense weapon/open carry in the back country. Im now a wheel gun convert.
Just recently picked up two model 10-10’s. Got a 64-1 today to keep them company. Got $700.00 tied up in the three of them. Couldn’t be any happier. Now to the range to determine which one shoots the best.
I bought my Mod. 64 in 2008 for 185.00 from a (I think) new salesman at the gunshop. I’ve always wondered though, my model number is 64-3 Why the 3?
I just moved to Prescott from the people’s Republic of Chicago.I made ot over to J&G as soon as I’d changed my drivers license to an Arizona one and sorted thru a slew of the Model 64’s they’ve got and grabbed me a good 64-3 with round butt and Pachmayr square grips for $269. I love it,I pulled the sideplate and cleaned and lubed it soon as I got it home and the whole gun was very nice shape,both mechanically and cosmetically,I’d trust my life to it if need be.
BTW,there’s still one local LEO who’s carrying wheel gun out here,and he’s not 60+ years old.
J&G has some good deals and the sale guys are pretty good.After I bought the 64 I also checked out the L/E trade in Ruger Mini-14’s with the synthetic stocks in stainless steel and grabbed a very nice one of those for an all around long gun to carry with me.
We have 3 of the Model 64-5 K frames. One square butt unbobbed and two bobbed round butt. I love these guns! My square butt will shoot a perfect CHL score for me every time putting rounds in the 9 ring at 15 yards. The perfect balance between power, weight, recoil, and trigger pull. Easy to learn to shoot with and simple to clean. You can’t go wrong with one of these.
Just picked up a mint Model 10-6, target trigger and hammer, 4″ HB version. Put my old L-frame factory grips on it (the Mdl 10 factory are very small) and it is one sweeeeeeeet pistol… the action is like glass. Added a bit of high heat white paint to the front sight, this puppy is VERY accurate… I have to rank it up with my favorite, a S&W 581 no dash. I paid $250, which given the current pricing of the mass produced stuff (starts at $700)… Maybe not an EDC… but for all else… winner.
It would be absolutely un-American not to like a S&W model 10 or 64 or any
“K” frame for that matter. I’ve had over 60 yrs handgun experience and have
owned and/or shot just about everything that’s come down the pike and, though
there are more powerful, more accurate and flashier handguns, there is none
better than a “K” frame Smith! By the way, the .38 Spl ain’t dead yet either!
Cliff
I have Model 10s in 4″ & 2″ barrels. I love them. The 4″ will give good groups out at 25yds if I do my part.
Police trade ins are an excellent deal if you are looking for a good shooter. Just because he has to carry a gun doesn’t mean he is into it any more than driving a patrol car makes him a car enthusiast. Most cops shoot only as much as they need to to qualify. Their guns are holster worn and dirty but mechanicaly almost new.
Thanks for all the information and imput! I feel better about the gun I just bought. Just purched it used, a a retired service model, when I had to send my CCW back to the factory. When we, my wife and I purchased guns several years ago she picked a small S & W .38 and I picked a smaller .38 but a different brand because I liked the weight. The problem with it is that it would jam every time after 4 or five shots and I finially brok down and bought something else. I am by no means a gun anything. I purched the SW .38 because I’m ould school and just think a relover is better. After all it is simple for someone like me. The problem I had was trying to find a CCW holster that I liked so I could carry the thing. THe closest I ccould find was from a local dealer and around $80 which was more than I really wanted to pay and It didn’t seem like it really fit the gun. So I went to an old stand-buy. Tere is a small, hole in the wall shoe repair place in the next town over who has done some things for me in the past. His price was also $80 for a water-fit leather holster. THe only problem is it will be several months before he can get to it. I feel better about paying him the $80 because I know it will fit right and I like supporting a local small business man. Long story short – he spent 1/2 hour telling me all about the gun. He said that he had several. Said it was one of the best guns that he owned – told me all about the k frame, double action, cam, bobbed trigger…He finished by telling me to go and look it up on the internet, which I did and after about an hour, ran past this posting. I have yet to take this gun to the range, but I will in a week or two. I am looking forward to trying it out. Thanks for all the posts. They made a novice like me feel better about my new gun purchase and I know that this one will last for a long time.
The funny thing is that when I bought this gun home, my wife looked it over, then looked at me and said – you just should have bought a SW in the first place like I did. Who can argue with that logic!
Thanks for the post about these great Smith & Wesson’s. I have the model 65 in .357 stainless, standard hammer. I believe the salesman told me they came from the California Highway Patrol. I also have the model 64 in .38 spl. This one is interesting because it’s DAO, bobbed hammer, 3″ bbl., and etched inside the crane is NY-1 Model 64-65. I suspect since it was new in the box that it was headed for (highly litigious) NYC just before they all started switching to Glocks. My gain. I agree that this solidly made revolver should have no problem with +P loads.
I believe guards working for cash in transit companies up here in Canada used these (stainless, with rubber grips), until they switched to .40 pistols a few years ago. The various city police generally used S&Ws with blued finishes, before they too switched to pistols in the early 1990s, as did the Mounties, OPP and SQ. I never saw bobbed hammers. Unfortunately, these are now classified as a ‘prohibited’ (not illegal, but incredibly difficult to get a license for) firearm, since their barrels are under 105mm length–a completely arbitrary rule. The only people who carry revolvers anymore in Canada are the odd trapper, geologist, wildlife photographer, etc. with a wilderness ATC permit, usually for a .44 magnum or greater, for protection from wild animals.
The first handgun I fired was my parents S&W model 64. The only range available at that time was 25 yards and I was shooting old (then) ammo. I went to the range by myself and had no instruction on it (although it is so simple that was not a problem). I did take a hunter safety course I a couple of years earlier. So I did know that you are not to load until the range is clear, point at anything you do not intend to destroy, and put your finger on the trigger until you are ready to shoot. Basically I was not completely stupid. While it has a very heavy trigger (dad ordered it that way when we were kids) it shot very well for a short barrel. I was able to put 25 rounds in a square about 2.5 by 2.5 a little high and to the right of center target. Not great, but still useable as defensive shots go. I have fired a number of weapons since, both revolvers and semi-autos. However this range time stands out as one of my favorites. I had almost as much fun with it as I did when I was in the Navy and had my first encounter with the M2HB .50 cal machine gun. I wonder how well I would shoot it today if I took it to the range. I have gotten a lot better since then.
Some people are simply gun-snobs… they are ALL ABOUT whatever is popular… after all “38 Billion sold” can’t be wrong… surely McDonald’s must make the best hamburgers!
You gave up trying to talk to them long ago… they can’t figure out why those old guys are down there at the far end of the range shooting those archaic M1 Garands at targets 200 yards away… off-hand…
Meanwhile, those internet experts and video game warriors… well, they are still trying to get their tacticool 46 zillion candlepower flashlight aimed-in at 25 yards…
I love my model 64… I hardly ever use it… maybe once every couple years… what’s to practice? With what do I need to re-familiarize myself. I have other guns to practice my stance, trigger control, presentation, timing, posture, etc. So, my 64 looks brand-new… it feels great in my hand, nestles down there and makes its self comfortable, the trigger is smoooooooooth as silk… It’s just that it’s… well… boring… no muss, no fuss, no drama. On single action… just an easy touch sends the projectile to its mark, the target right next to the one the guy with the AK is shooting at… and, not all that much difference in the size of the groups.
My old 64 will never rust, the finish will never wear off… and, its value keeps going up… someday, my great grand children may need it to help defend their liberty… and, if they do, it will still be working just fine…
Did I tell you about my Ruger GP100 ???
Martin, Judging by your description of DAO and bobbed hammer, 4″ barrel and the photo (round cylinder stop, shape of thumb latch), there is a very good chance this was an NYPD service revolver “issued” in the late 1980’s, just before the switch to 9mm semi-autos.
NYPD mandated DAO for new recruits around 1987 or 1988 after a perpetrator under arrest was accidentally shot by an officer who had cocked his/her DA/SA revolver. The bobbed hammer prevented any attempt at cocking, and the action was changed internally so there was no cocked position on the sear, even if an enterprising officer managed to pull the hammer back.
It was also a departure from the blued-only policy.
“Issued” because NYPD did not provide guns to its officers. Officers bought their own guns from a limited list of authorized firearms.
Ah, the K frame. I have only two currently – a 1930 M&P, and a 1980’s 13-3 with the round butt and 3″ barrel. They are lovely pieces of engineering, accurate, versatile, and just generally useful weapons. I just looked to see if J&G had any model 64 revolvers in stock, and they do, but are currently about $100 more than quoted in the review. May be getting one anyway – still are one of the best defensive pistols ever made.
A little old lady schooled me with one at the range one day. She could, and did, hit anything on the range at any distance. Don’t sell them short – a double action revolver will still make good hits at longer range. It’s more a question of the shooter’s capabilities than the gun’s. Cops used to qualify with these at 50 yards. Ten yards and in is not even stretching their legs.
I was able to pick up a Model 10-8 pinned and a Model 64-5, each was around $339.00. Both in 4″ barrels. The 10 was a retired police, and the 64 is a retired Ohio DOC pistol. Robertson Trading Post, out of Henderson, TN still has quite a few 64’s, at around 85% condition.
I have several other pistols, other Smiths, Colts, and even an old FN Browning 1922, but these 2 have to be my favorites. Fit and feel, and just the over all simplistic design has made them my go too’s time and again.
Thanks for a great article. It’s good to see other wheel gunners out there. Oh, and as far as the 158gr wad cutters, and round nose being obsolete? Like I tell my friends who laugh at me for carrying a .38, let me take you out back and shoot you. Then tell me it’s obsolete. If both the NYPD, and LAPD, not to mention all the other 1000’s of P.D.’s felt safe using them as a man stopper, who am I to doubt it? Yes, there are better rounds out there, but I would never call these time-tested rounds obsolete. But that’s just my humble opinion.
My kid has become interested in shooting something larger than 22lr after shooting my steel J snub with specials. I think a K frame is just the ticket. Mine are either J’s or N’s.
There is nothing more rewarding than shooting a quality revolver and they last lifetimes when properly cared for.
I own a lot of guns but this is my house gun with a set of crimson trace grips. I would like to have a 67 same gun with adjustable sights, but I just bought the NEW Model 66 and cant justify the other(not right now at least).
Good review. I have been shooting revolvers for some time. A couple years ago I purchased a used Model 19.
Ok I get it now!!! There is some thing about these Smith and Wesson revolvers.
Added a model 14 38 special with a 6 inch barrel. Wow!!! Its a lifer my kids will have to fight over it.
Have been wanting a used model 10 for some time. But then I happened upon the Model 64. I think these are a good option because your not likely to get a beat up looking gun plus you can buff out the Stainless to get them looking good again.
Have a few bids on one, so should have one with in the week.
The only thing I would add is that I bought mine for $100 less than you paid and mine has the hammer spur. Other than that, yes it is a fine shooter, I have used it for years to teach at least 600 women how to shoot a revolver. It has been flawless with thousands of rounds run thru it. Like yours, mine was an old police workhorse that was cast off. Their loss and my gain as far as I am concerned.
I like checking your web sites. Thank you!
Thanks a bunch! It a impressive web page!.
You’re a very useful web site; could not make it without ya!
A couple years ago, I first tested for my ccw with a worn Model 10 circa 1970 I bought off gunbroker. I traded that in for a (relatively) newer model 64 with a bobbed hammer and 4″ barrel almost exactly like what you have pictured. I love it. Given its weight, I can put rounds down range as quick as you please. It’s as comfortable in the hand as one’s own pecker. I usually get looks at the range when I shoot, not because it’s a remarkable gun, but at 25, I swear to Jesus I’m the youngest guy still carrying one.
I bought a Model 64 round butt from J&G years ago…it has a 4″bbl and Hogue boot grips on it…awesome revolver
I just started shooting a few years ago and my first gun was a police/security M64 trade in, made in the early 90s. It still has its hammer, so it’s DA/SA, but other than that it looks just like the one pictured, and was about the same price as yours. It came with wooden grips but I put Hogue grips on it for a better grip. Great gun, it is so fun to shoot.
I’ve bought a couple of semi-autos since then , a .22 and a Sig Sauer .40 but the M64 is still easily my favorite. Needless to say, never had a FTF or FTE with it!
My fiancé went to the range with me and she definitely liked the S&W revolver the best, even compared to the Glock 19 we rented (which jammed, after about 40 rounds).
For a while I was keeping the M64 at her house, and I missed taking it to the range so much that I bought a Rossi 35202, which is a stainless J frame snubnose (I was going to buy another used M64 but the store had increased their price $100 by then). I also prefer revolvers for their ease of cleaning and maintenance compared to semi-autos, and just the overall simpler design.
As an old geezer that went through the police academy with a S&W model 10, that I carried on duty on and off till Glocks were approved in my agency. I still have my model 10 and will be purchasing one those 64 surplus guns soon, it’s on layaway. In cooler weather I conceal carry my model 10. I know people scoff at the 6 rounds capacity, but the ease of shooting these K frame guns is superb.
I may be a decade late but couldnt resist commenting. K frames are great guns! I have a model 15 combat masterpiece, first gun I ever bought. I like the heavy barrel, fixed sights, stainless steel and DAO hammer on your 64. They all seem like the perfect uptions for a bedside, CC, all around defense gun. Great buy, great gun, great write up!
I went through the police academy back in the 80s with an S&W model 10 and carried on duty until the transition to semi-autos. Never cared for the DA/SA. semi-autos I went back to a revolver until Glocks with their consistent trigger. I still have my model 10 and a 2 inch model 10 -7. I recently just acquired an S&W 64-5, I just love revolvers. I shoot them better than semi-autos.