Gear Review: EEZOX Premium Gun Care CLP

It’s a good idea to use a little solvent and a lot of elbow grease to clean guns, and then to use the manufacturer recommended amount of lubricant to actually, well, lubricate the gun. That said, for guns that are used regularly, it’s pretty handy to use some kind of CLP (Clean/Lubricate/Protect). EEZOX has created their Ultimate Gun Care Solution to do it all, and over the last six months or so, I’ve put it to the test on a wide variety of firearms.

EEZOX is a synthetic CLP, which is about all the website tells us as far as what it’s made of. I’m no chemist, so scientifically, all I can tell you is it smells nice. For those of you familiar with Load Factor measurements, EEZOX’s 4,500lb “Peak Load Pass” sounds impressive, at least by comparison to other common lubricants.

For an “All In One” product, EEZOX sure does come in a whole lot of different formats. From very small precision droppers to big aerosol cans, you have a wide variety of delivery methods.

For the best cleaning effect, the big cans are the way to go. They have a pretty forceful stream, and you can really blast away carbon and grime with it. The big aerosol cans are what I used for my home cleaning kit, and I put the little droppers in my gun bags and the cleaning kit I keep in the truck.

The big spray cans make work easy. Just spray the holy heck out of the gun and wait a few minutes. And I do mean a few minutes. Not hours, and not seconds. Letting the liquid set just three or four minutes really helps remove heavy fouling. After a few minutes, wipe it all off.

This is not a true solvent, but it works well as one. Used as described, I’ve been more than satisfied with how EEZOX loosened up fouling. It’s a lightly viscous fluid, so it runs right off, taking most of the fouling with it. A light wipe with a rag takes care of the rest.

If all you have is the smaller dropper containers, a light flowing amount will work just fine to clean, you’ll just have to wipe the grime off a bit more. Either way, it will get the gun clean with a minimal amount of work.

For the lubrication side of things, EEZOX is definitely a “dry” lubricant. I found the volatile liquid evaporates rapidly, leaving behind a very thin film. That means that too much is a bad thing. EEZOZ makes it clear that only a light film on the material is all that is needed.

I have some guns that prefer to be absolutely drenched in lube, like my old Colt Series 70, and a few that prefer a very light lube to keep going, like the Wilson Combat GLOCK 19. Both of those guns have been back in my regular rotation over the last couple of months, so I’ve used EEZOX as the only product to clean and lubricate them over that time.

I could run 40 weight motor oil in the Colt and it would run, but the “Wilsonized” GLOCK is a bit pickier (and more accurate). The G19 does fine with dirt and grit, but a “gummy” lube will make it fail to return to battery.

With either the 1911 or the GLOCK, I’ve seen no issues at all. It was enough to clean and lube the Colt, and it wasn’t so much as to gum up the G19. I’ve run a few 500-round weekends with both guns, and the lube stayed put and was effective the entire time. Considering the last two months have featured 100+ degree days (it’s billed as working down to -95, too), that’s impressive.

Take note that it really takes only a very light film to adequately lubricate firearms. I haven’t seen an application of too much of EEZOX actually stop a gun from running, but I can attest first-hand that too much will leave a suppressed firearm awfully smoky. And it persists for hundreds of rounds. I guess that’s a good and a bad thing, but it’s an issue that’s easily resolved by wiping off the excess in the first place.

For a lot of folks, rifles and shotguns tend to sit dormant between hunting seasons. The generally practice of cleaning a firearm well and lubing it before putting it away for a few months is well advised. Unfortunately, some lubricants become sticky over time and gum up moving parts. I’ve had this happen myself, especially with AR15s, where a lubricant I was using partially solidified, turning the semi-automatic rifle into a bolt action. I’m sure anyone who’s bought an older gun that’s been in storage for some time has encountered the same issue.

The last time I shot my Schmidt and Ruben Swiss Infantry Rifle was back in March, and I sprayed a coat of EEZOX on the bolt and into the barrel and action and lightly wiped it down. I then set it aside in a corner of the gun room. I pulled it out for this review and inspected the internals. No buildup of any kind of was present, but a light film of lubricant was still there. I couldn’t really see it, but I could feel the film left behind. Test passed.

Finally, EEZOX bills itself as a rust preventative. Considering its viscosity, and that it leaves a very fine dry film behind, that makes sense. I’ve had no rust or fingerprint marks with any of the guns I’ve used it with over the last few months, but then again, I clean and wipe down my guns. I can attest that it does not discolor fine wood, and it shines up quite nicely. It will streak on mirror polishes, like a window, unless you take care to use a very thin coat and wipe it clean carefully, as any fine firearm deserves.

EEZOX is safe for wood, metal and polymers, but the instructions say to wipe any rubber grips dry. I’ve used it on rubber Hogue grips on a couple of my revolvers without issue, but you will definitely want to dry them. It may be harmful to the rubber, but it does seem to persist on the rubber for an extended period of time as they tend to remain very slick.

I shoot or hunt just about every day. Consequently, I’m cleaning a gun just about every day. I occasionally still use a solvent bath for belt-fed guns, or any time I have several heavily fouled firearms. The new larger ultrasonic cleaners have been an absolute miracle.

Still, they all have issues, especially with things like wood stocks and Tritium sights. I’m fairly stuck in my ways, but EEZOX has me reconsidering my constant two-step, solvent then lubricant process. EEZOX has billed itself as an the only product you’ll need for cleaning your firearm. They appear to be right.

Prices range widely, depending on size and type.
1.5oz dropper: $3.79
7oz spray can: $9.99
18oz spray can $25.99

Rating (out of five stars):

Overall * * * * *
EEZOX works as advertised. That’s quite a lot, as they make some bold claims. Used for going on six months now on dozens of different firearms, it has proven to clean and adequately lubricate a wide variety of guns. As an added bonus, it comes in every size and delivery type you could need.

comments

  1. avatar No one of consequence says:

    Sounds like a modernized Ballistol. (I mean that as a compliment.) Good review.

    But, the top shelf of my workbench is already literally filled with “let’s give it a try” bottles of lube and cleaners. I still keep coming back to FrogLube solvent to clean, and either WeaponShield for pistols or Slip 2000 for rifles, because they seem to work well enough and nothing else I’ve tried works sufficiently better so as to incentivize me to switch. (Exceptions for the M1 Garand with specific lube requirements.)

    1. avatar Sich says:

      IF it uses “Water-based White Mineral Oil” it probable IS…

    2. avatar jwtaylor says:

      Yup, I always liked Ballistol as well.

      1. avatar Clark Kent says:

        I will stick to Ballistol as it is non-toxic. Can Eezox make the same claim?

  2. avatar Danny L Griffin says:

    This stuff is 20% – 30% more expensive on Amazon than buying it direct from the manufacturer. Odd.

  3. avatar Geoff "Mess with the Bull, get the Horns" PR says:

    I’ve been using it for over 20 years. Fantastic stuff. Dirt, lint, etc., doesn’t stick to it.

    They used to sell it in one-gallon paint cans.

    Back in my ‘tasteless’ days, I’d rate it as 5 choads up.

    Way up… 🙂

    1. avatar Sich says:

      The only Issue I have with “Ballistol” is that IT Freezes Solid at -32F. My Grandfather on my Mothers Side was a Forced Conscript in the Wehrmacht and fought at the “Battle of Stalingrad” and wound using capture Soviet Dry Lubrication instead, which Froze at -65F…

      1. avatar No one of consequence says:

        According to it’s label, it (Eezox) should be good to -95F

        1. avatar Sich says:

          GOOD, the Russian/Soviet Dry Lubrication was getting “Harder and Harder To Come By”…

        2. avatar ropingdown says:

          The RCMP performed an extensive study to determine the best lubricatant for use in extremely cold weather. “None” was an option. They concluded that treatment with Eezox was the best choice. (I don’t have the link handy, so google it….)

        3. avatar Clark Kent says:

          Very cold weather calls for Birchwood Casey Synthetic gun oil.

      2. avatar jwtaylor says:

        I’ve spent an extended time in the open at -18 degrees without adequate protection. If I am ever in the same situation at -32 degrees, I will only need the firearm to work once. #neveragain

    2. avatar Sich says:

      IF you Reload!/? Don’t get Solvent any where Near the Propellant! Propellant will absord residual fumes of Solvent. And you “May” get a Bigger Bang than you would be normally be accustomed too…

      1. avatar jwtaylor says:

        I assume you mean open propellant? I find it hard to believe that residual fumes would soak into the sealed powder containers.

        1. avatar Sich says:

          YES, But IF Solvent makes contact with Propellant Plastic Container. Solvent could eat or dissolve Propellant Container, rendering the propellant useless. Unless you’re willing to absorb the cost of the loss of the propellant, and try to use it anyway…

        2. avatar jwtaylor says:

          Clear. Thanks

  4. avatar raptor jesus says:

    I buy Ballistol in bulk from Amazon. Dirt cheap.

  5. avatar Green Mtn. Boy says:

    I’ve used Eezox for smokeless for the past 15 years and Ballistol for black powder,I quit looking for other CLP’s long ago.

    1. avatar Swarf says:

      Why one for BP and the other for smokeless?

      1. avatar Warren says:

        Probably one deals with the corrosive nature of black powder residue better than the other.

  6. avatar LarryinTX says:

    Say, after cleaning is complete, can you just toss rags into washing machine, or do we discard and replace?

    1. avatar Sich says:

      The Best Gun Cleaner of Earth, is “Liquid Mercury”! A 15-minute Bath and you’re Gun will be Squeeky Clean, and you don’t even have dry it either…

      1. avatar Geoff "Mess with the Bull, get the Horns" PR says:

        3 problems with that –

        1 – Guns will not sink into a bath of liquid mercury. Google “Anvil floating in mercury” for video.

        2 – You really don’t want to let mercury come into contact with a number of metals, especially aluminum. Mercury will *dissolve* aluminum.

        3 – You really don’t want to come into contact with mercury, it is a *nasty* neurotoxin, and loves to make its way into fatty tissue and stay there. You were aware your brain is mostly fatty tissue?

        1. avatar Sich says:

          Never said in my Comment that there “Weren’t Any Risks”! Just that was the “Best In the World”…

        2. avatar Clark Kent says:

          You just can’t fix stupid.

      2. avatar Swarf says:

        Is… is that why you type like you do?

        1. avatar Sich says:

          Compared to “What”? All “Capitals”! Consider yourself lucky that No “Emoji’s” or “Leet” was in the Sentences mixed with the “Qwerty” Typing…

    2. avatar jwtaylor says:

      I hand wash.

  7. avatar former water walker says:

    I doubt I’ll ever buy this but it’s good to know. Got a sample of Ballistol from a LGS and I guess I’ll try it. Been using CLP and RemOil which works OK. I am NOT a high volume shooter…

  8. avatar MLee says:

    I use a variety of products including Hoppe’s copper solvent, Birtchwood 2-1 Bore cleaner, CLP, Ballistol and regular gun oil.
    I’m pretty anal about the care of my equipment. A real big help in is compressed air. I have dried air or dried oiled air. depending on which hose I use. With all the proper gun cleaning tools for and the correct products along with compressed air, my firearms are always pristine that get regular care fired or not. It’s unbelievable the excuses some people have for not cleaning their weapons properly. When it comes down to it. they are nothing but lame-ass excuses based on pure laziness.

    1. avatar Sich says:

      What kind of Oil for “Dried Oil Air”? Because Most Oils “Don’t” react well to Forced Air Pressure! Most “Oils” will Combust into Flames at 100psi…

      1. avatar Old Guy in Montana says:

        Interesting! None of my pneumatic tools (40 – 120 psi) with an in-line oiler have ever combusted into flame while in use…whether it was a propylene glycol or petroleum based lube.

        1. avatar Sich says:

          Go for you! Do you use a “HCFC” Oil or “HFC” Oil…

  9. avatar Patrick says:

    After blowing through a small bottle of EEZOX, I bought a quart. It fabulous stuff. The lubrication is just perfect and the corrosion resistance has been tested to be the best. I’ve stopped using oil on all my firearms.

    As a solvent, it works to get power crud out. Without having a borescope to verify effectiveness, I epxect that it does nothing to remove copper fouling. In a pistol, this isn’t an issue, but in a precision rifle, I still use solvent to clean the bore before applying EEZOX as a rust preventative.

    I haven’t seen EEZOX dissolve any type of plastic or rubber. It also smells good 🙂

  10. avatar TheOtherDavid says:

    Ballistol was my go to for many years, but I have started using Rand CLP for the last few months and the Glocks, revolvers, and ARs All seem to like it. Lubricates a little bit drier than Ballistol. I will run it during a rifle course this fall and see how it does with a longer day of fire. Seems to clean a bit better than Ballistol

    1. avatar Clark Kent says:

      When cleaning a firearm with Ballistol remember to let it soak the part(s) for 20 to 30 minutes before scrubbing/brushing/wiping.

  11. avatar Wilko says:

    Could anyone comment on “G96”?
    Legia Spray, Ballistol, Rem Oil all good but recently bought a spray can of G96 which I haven’t used as yet.

    Thoughts/comments please?

    1. avatar Sich says:

      Other then being Military Grade and used by the US Army as of May 2017. Other than that Not Much! I’ve never used it myself…

      1. avatar Clark Kent says:

        G96 is a great product! I rate it just behind Ballistol because I don’t believe G96 is non-toxic like Ballistol. If you don’t like the smell of Ballistol G96 smells like eggnog (and who does not like that smell?).

        1. avatar Sich says:

          OK!/? I’ve been using Russian Standard TY 38.1011315-90 “Dry Lubrication” used in the “Battle of Stalingrad”, near US Equivalent to AeroShell Fluid 18…

  12. avatar Scott C. says:

    First time I used Eezox was when my SSgt. Bought us some before we deployed to Iraq in 2004. I haven’t used anything else since, ‘nuff said.

    1. avatar Clark Kent says:

      So you have voluntarily exposed yourself to a toxic product for 14 years?

  13. avatar William Wessels says:

    I have used it for several years now. On blued polished firearms it dries if wiped 20 minutes after aplication to remove surplus. After a couple of days fingerprints are no longer a problem. I live in Florida, fairly high humidity most of the time and the blued guns stay pristine over a years period of time. Excellent product and a nice elderly couple who sell it. Mom and Pop operation. It was used extensively in Kuwait.

    1. avatar Clark Kent says:

      Great! Then I will wait to use Eezox when I move to Kuwait.

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