Reloading 101: Crunching the Numbers (Part 2)

If there’s one thing I like more than shooting it’s being a cheap bastard saving money. It’s the main reason I got into reloading: more shooting for less bucks. Eco-warrior that I am, reloading spent brass also gives me something to do with all that spare metal. I mean, you can’t just throw it away. Anyway, despite the hype you may hear from reloading advocates—or more likely, people who sell reloading equipment—the money you “save” by reloading depends largely on how much you shoot. I’ll do a simple cost breakdown, and let you, the reader, decide whether reloading makes economic sense. The example I use will be a cartridge I reload.

As I wrote in Part 1 of this series, there are four components to a cartridge: Case, Primer, Powder and Projectile (bullet). When I talk about costs, I’m only going to mention the last three items; the components that are expended when the round is fired. The case is a special case. We’ll get to that . . .

For .38 Special, the load I like to use is about three grains of Bullseye, a 158 grain Round Nose Lead (RNL) bullet or a 148 Grain Wadcutter (WC).  Primers are Small Pistol and my Auto Prime requires that I use either Winchester or CCI primers.

I’m using the prices from the Cabela’s. And though I think they are a tad high, they are probably fairly representative of what most reloaders would actually pay. Cabela’s is a mail order company, but for reasons I’ll describe below, I prefer to buy all of my components locally rather than mail ordering them.

Component                                                                              Cost

Alliant Bullseye powder                                                            $19.99/LB

CCI Small Pistol primers:                                                          $36.99/1000

Oregon Trail Laser Cast bullets, 158gr RN FP                  $48.99/500

Of course, that’s the bulk cost. Figuring out the unit cost is a little more tricky, except for the bullets of course which, at $50 for 500, work out to a dime apiece.

A pound is 7,000 grains, so you can theoretically load 2,333 .38 special cartridges with a pound of Bullseye. That works out to $0.0085 per round. Round it up and call it a penny per round.

Primers are also easy to figure; each primer fills a cartridge. That runs .3699 per round. Rround up to $0.037 and call if four cents each.

So at four cents for the primer, 10 for the bullet and a penny for the powder, the component cost per round (not counting the case) is 15 cents.  At 50 rounds per box this works out to $7.50. That’s actually pretty good—the cheapest .38 special I’ve ever seen for sale is offered around $10/box.

Now, having said all that, you can do better if you shop around. For example, last time I bought bullets in bulk, I’m pretty sure I paid around $25 for 500 rounds.

Really, it doesn’t make much sense to mail order reloading components except for the cases. Powder and primers are considered “Hazmat” (Hazardous Materials). The additional shipping charges will eat up any savings (unless you live in a really remote area). As you know, bullets are heavy; shipping can be expensive on those as well. For that reason, I prefer to buy my expendable components locally.

The reason I didn’t count brass in the per-round cost is because, of course, brass is reusable. So, if you only load rounds once, the cost for brass can easily push the total costs up above what you’d pay for commercial loads. However, every time you reuse brass, the cost drops. Put more simply, the more you shoot, the more you save.

And as for how long you can reuse a case, that’s like asking “how high is up?” I rarely throw away a case unless it has a crack in the rim wall or is so badly bent it can’t be safely reused. Because .38 is such a low-powered round, those cases can usually be reloaded 10 to 12 times before becoming unsafe. ALWAYS INSPECT THE CASE BEFORE RELOADING.

The cost breakdown for rifle cartridges is similar. But because rifles use a lot more powder (my .30-06 loads use about 60 grains of powder), you get a lot fewer rounds per pound of powder.  Rifle bullets, being typically complex designs including a copper jacket, soft point and lead filler, are also more expensive.

Even there, though, the money saved can be significant:

Component                                                                              Cost

Hodgdon H4895 powder                                                          $24.99/LB

CCI Large Rifle  primers:                                                           $32.99/1000

Nosler Ballistic Tip BT bullets, 125 GR                                  $15.99/50

At 60 grains per round, that pound of powder will fill 116 cases. That’s $.21 per charge. With the primer at three cents, and the bullets at 32 cents apiece, that’s $0.56 per round or $11.20 a box—about half the cost of even the cheapest hunting-grade rifle ammo.

Of course,  you have to consider the cost of the reloading equipment as well. Like the brass [ED: or a Boeing 747], the more you use it, the more you save. Theoretically, there should be a point at which you’ve saved enough to cover the cost of the reloading equipment.

I say theoretically, because, like most hobbyists, reloaders have a tendency to acquire more and more gear as they go along: scales, digital powder measures, case trimming tools, case tumblers, chronographs for measuring bullet speed, bullet casting equipment, and eventually progressive loaders. All of which can cost hundreds or thousands of dollars.

By the time you count the cost of the brass and all of the equipment you will need/want, the per-round cost savings can quickly disappear. Again unless you shoot a lot. Even with  my single-stage press setup I probably have nearly $500 invested in reloading gear. $500 could buy a lot of factory-loaded ammo.

Based on the above, it’s obvious that in strictly economic terms, reloading doesn’t make sense for the casual shooter. Nor does it make much sense for someone who fires a cartridge that is widely available in bulk quantities at low prices, like 5.56mm NATO/.223 or 7.62 x 39mm (7.62 Russian) and is content to shoot military-grade ammo.

But for someone who shoots hundreds or thousands of rounds a month (competitive shooters, for example), the savings can add up quickly. Particularly when you consider that the most expensive items (the reloading equipment and the brass) are reusable and don’t wear out in a hurry.

There are other valid non-economic reasons to reload.

For one thing, reloading lets you shoot cartridges that the big ammo manufacturers don’t sell. I hunt antelope in Wyoming using a .30-06 rifle. While the .30-06 is an excellent cartridge, antelope are small and fast and live in wide-open grasslands that demand long shots (200 yards is typical, 400 is not unknown).

Most commercial .30-06 loads are in the 150-180 grain bullet weight category. Which is fine out to about 200 yards. After that it drops precipitously. That’s why I like to load a lighter 125 grain bullet for a faster, flatter shooting round.

Reloading also lets you experiment with different bullet types and shapes, or you can even cast your own lead bullets.

But the final reason to reload is for the same reason people like to grow their own vegetables, hunt their own food, or build their own houses:  the sense of satisfaction that comes with knowing that you did it yourself.

My wife says that a bowl of chili tastes better when she knows the peppers in it were grown by her own hand, in her own garden. \ In a similar way, that antelope steak tastes better to me when I know the round I used to take it is one I loaded myself. As Brad likes to say, your results may vary.


  1. avatar XRwogannimeieTest says:

    Know the signs to look for in the specific bag.

    Then there are women like me that carry whatever mail they got so they can check it later, a diaper or two if your child is old enough that a diaper bag would be too much, gum, keys to everything you own and some you don’t, and some even carry around birth certificates and social security cards you forgot to take out after your last appointment..

    Por favor, eval煤e la posibilidad de actualizar su navegador y/o habilitar el uso de CSS..

    Her hairstylist for two years, Johnny Wright, is known for keeping Michelle hair flat ironed and hairsprayed, however, many critics have already stated that this new up-do makes her look much more modern.

    Le spectacle “L’Age de Glace Live !” mobilise cette fine quipe qui a s duit des millions de spectateurs..

  2. avatar Joe says:

    Thanks for the info I have been reloading for 4years. I love to reload iam on ssa disability and want to make a little money. The prices I did Mach your about 1 penny Good hunting and shooting. May God Bless you all be safe.

  3. avatar mikes says:

    Reloading is more a hobby than anything else for me. An example of my cost are as follow and keep in mind I always buy in BULK and these were the 12/6/2012 prices I paid and still working off those numbers even though I still buy bulk to replace at a little higher costs this day.
    powder -Bullseye 8# 104.00, *4.3grn =13k+ loads 1k=$0.008 per round
    primers -wolf $15.00 per 1k at a 5k purchase regular $20 per 1k 1k=$0.015 per primer
    bullets -Zero $86 per 1k at 5k purchase regular $92 per 1k 1k=$0.086 per bullet
    brass -free range pickup or win wht box $17.86 per 100 Walmart 1k=$0
    TTL $0.109
    Now I cast so bullets are .01 to $0.02 so the actual cost are about —————————–$0.043 per round+/-

  4. avatar Richard says:

    I reload for 38 Spl using a Lee hand tool ($40) with an electronic scale ($70), and so far just one load, 2.9 gr Bullseye under 148 gr HBWC, Since this load isn’t available from any store in my area as factory ammo, I don’t have a choice if I want to shoot it. But it turns out I enjoy the reloading process, and the Lee tool works just fine. I haven’t calculated the cost but it’s not much. If I eventually load 1,000 rounds, acquiring that gear will have cost 2.2 cents per round — not much. I’m going to try another bullet type next. Something mild for my K38, built in 1952, so it’s quite a bit older than I am.

Write a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

button to share on facebook
button to tweet
button to share via email