Avoiding Rookie Mistakes With Your AR-15 Rifle: Guns for Beginners

Avoid Rookie Mistakes With Your AR-15 Rifle

A flexible, modular design and decades of robust sales have pushed the AR-15 to the top of long gun heap, making it America’s favorite rifle. But while it may look easy to operate, many novice users make a number of rookie mistakes with their AR. In competitions, these mistakes can cause embarrassment. If you’re using your AR-15 for self-defense, these unforced errors can cost you far more than a bruised ego.

At this past weekend’s DeWitt County Sportsman’s Club‘s 6th Annual Zombie Shoot, I volunteered as the range officer on the rifle side, as I do almost every year. Once again, I saw all manner of skill sets on display ranging from needing lots of improvement to quite competent. The biggest surprise of the day came from 13-year-old Garrett, pictured in the top photo, who captured first place using good fundamentals and avoiding those novice mistakes.

How can you avoid unforced errors with your AR-15?

Sight in your rifle

Use a 25-yard zero which will put you roughly dead-on at 25 yards and at 300 yards. Using a 50-yard zero, your shot will never impact more than 3 inches high or low out to nearly 300 yards with typical loads and barrel lengths, which is more than enough precision for minute of head shot. The choice is yours, but whatever you do, sight in your rifle. An un-zero’d rifle may not save your bacon when you really need it. Plus, errant shots can become huge liability issues if you use the rifle in self-defense.

Bringing an unsighted rifle to a competition wastes everyone’s time, not to mention the shooter’s ammunition (and money).  I saw one fellow fire two full magazines and fail to hit a single clay bird at 25 yards. At least we didn’t need to reset targets after that performance.

If you don’t shoot well, seek out training. Project Appleseed provides exceptionally affordable marksmanship and American heritage shooting events across the USA. For less than $100, an Appleseed event will show you how to shoot your rifle well using nothing more than a sling. Can you shoot to the Rifleman’s standard – 4 minutes of angle? Excuses don’t count.

Don’t understand the minute of angle measurement? Just another reason you should attend an Appleseed.

Lubricate your rifle

This weekend, I didn’t see a single dry rifle successfully complete the course of fire, which required breaking exactly one dozen clay pigeons at 25 yards and a single reload. Next to bringing a rifle unsighted to the line, shooting a bone-dry AR was the most common rookie mistake. While the dry ARs didn’t malfunction much in shooting only 30 to 60 rounds, novices who brought dry guns to the line also tended to bring all manner of other issues which led to poor performance.

An AR-15 rifle requires proper preventative maintenance, and to run reliably, your AR needs lubrication, and lots of it. Just like your car’s engine.

Break the rifle open, pull out the bolt carrier group and spray it until it shines like a freshly glazed donut.  Don’t have spray lube? Use any brand of lube you have available. Anything from used motor oil (use the dipstick) to cooking oil to suntan lotion will work if you don’t have gun lube. Heck, you can even use Vagasil. Pat Rogers’ nearly 20-year-old article “Keep your Carbine Running” should have a place on every AR owner’s required reading list.

Without lubrication, you can expect malfunctions to begin within the first few magazines. And they’ll only get worse and more frequent until you lubricate your rifle.

At the same time, don’t get wrapped around the axle about cleaning your AR-15s every whip-stitch. Even a dirty rifle with lubrication will run reliably. In my Pat Rogers class long ago, he had a sample rifle that had fired well over twenty thousand rounds since its previous cleaning. Every morning and every afternoon, Rogers would break the action open, hose down that bolt carrier group with whatever oil someone had handy and that rifle ran flawlessly. Rogers ran that rifle to show us that proper lubrication was far more critical to an AR’s reliability than cleanliness.

Load your magazines to 28 rounds

Yes, your milspec magazines will hold 30-rounds. You might even manage to shoehorn in 31 if you try really hard. But that doesn’t mean you should.

Smart AR users load their mags to 28 rounds which allows for reliable seating against a closed bolt.  I saw numerous malfunctions this past weekend, as I always do. Seems like every one of those came from improperly seated magazines.  When loading, insert the magazine loaded with 28 rounds, then strike the mag’s baseplate with your palm to ensure it’s seated properly.

Know your weapon’s manual of arms

Another common problem plaguing novices involved weapon controls. One fellow dumped his magazine trying to release the safety on his AR-15. Other shooters found the trigger wouldn’t work with the safety engaged. Inevitably, these people would always look at the rifle as if to ask, “What’s wrong?” chewing up valuable time. Thank heavens their targets didn’t shoot back.

In addition, a surprising number of grown men cycled the bolt on a loaded chamber after reloading, wasting both time and ammo.

The DeWitt Zombie shoot required shooters to engage three “zombies” at each of four stations, while not shooting “uninfected” targets. And they had to perform a reload anywhere along the way.

Thirteen-year-old Garrett won the rifle division with a time of 43.25 seconds (39.25 plus a four-second penalty for two extra shots). He beat dozens of grown men, not by operating operationally, but by using good fundamentals. And not making rookie mistakes.

Unlike a number of the men he was competing against, his rifle and accouterments didn’t set his dad back a couple of thousand dollars. He ran a fairly basic setup with a Chinese knock-off optic. But he executed the fundamentals of stance, sight alignment, sight picture, trigger control and follow-through, good habits that he’d ingrained through practice.

Garrett performed the basics well enough to win. You can too.

comments

  1. avatar strych9 says:

    I’ve never really looked into the specifics so… question.

    What difference exactly are you going to get from a 25 or 50 yard zero vs. a 100 yard zero? I zero every single rifle I have to 100 yards and it’s never caused me a problem at any range with targets ranging in size from clay pigeons to smallish gongs. Sure it might not be *dead nuts on* in terms of hitting a bottle cap at closer ranges but it’s more than good enough for 3-4″ targets and at 100 it will clover-leaf or keyhole all day depending on the barrel and/or suppressor that I’m using.

    1. avatar strych9 says:

      Also, an attack using a vehicle is being reported in NYC.

    2. avatar Evey259 says:

      The reason for the beauty of the 26 yard zero (I’m being a stickler for arithmetic here,) is that the zero at this range will ensure consistent hits +/- 2″ depending on caliber from zero to 300 yards of point of aim. In short, it diminishes error while maximizing point-and-shoot operational range.

      1. avatar Curtis in IL says:

        Too many variables: Muzzle velocity, bullet weight and ballistic coefficient to name a few, not to mention the height of your line of sight over the bore axis. I would never zero a rifle at 26 yards and assume it would get me minute of barn door at 300.

        Rather, I would zero it at 300 yards and know it would be “close enough” at 26. But what if you don’t have a 300 yard range to use? Then you could dial it in a few inches high at 100 yards. This is where a ballistic calculator comes in handy.

        For those that want to understand the basics of external ballistics, I recommend investing in a chronograph (or borrowing one), and using an online ballistic calculator to give you your trajectory.

        1. avatar Evey259 says:

          I really should have more heavily emphasized the “depending on your caliber” part. And yes, sight lines, barrel lengths and bullet weights will change this. However, a 25-28 yard zero is really fantastic for your moderately fast, flat-shooting cartridges. Your .308s, 5.56s, .270s, etc., will do very well with a sub-50 yard zero and minimize error with most commercially available loadings.

        2. avatar Phillip says:

          If you’re zeroing a rifle, it’s only zeroed to the exact same type and weight round you are zeroing with. At 26 yards, the wind has no effect on the round. At 300 yards, the wind can have a huge effect. Also, because of the trajectory of the round, the impact area (elevation) at 26 yards is nearly the same as at 300 yards.

    3. avatar John L says:

      A 100 yd zero only has one point exactly on zero. (100 yds). A 25 yd zero gets you on the bullseye @ 25 AND 300. A 50 yd zero gets you on the bullseye @ 50 and 200. Yours works too, you just don’t keep as close to the bullseye as the other two methods over a 0-300+ range.

      1. avatar Curtis in IL says:

        Rubbish. If you zero at 100 yards, then the bullet trajectory will come up through your line of sight as some point, before falling back down through it at 100. Exactly there that point is depends on several factors, but if you know those variables then a ballistic calculator will tell the tale.

        1. avatar I_Like_Pie says:

          Oh dear lord. Really. You really think you are correct with that statement?

        2. avatar Independent George says:

          I don’t think that’s correct – a 100-yard zero puts the zenith at 100 yards, so that is the only point where it is exactly on. The 25 and 50 yard zeros will both cross the plane at two points, as John L said.

        3. avatar Curtis in IL says:

          Again, too many variables. With a given combination of muzzle velocity, bullet weight and ballistic coefficient, it might very well reach its zenith at 100 yards. Or not.

          Play around with a ballistic calculator a bit. Try a 40 grain bullet at 3,300 fps, then a 77 grain bullet at 2,600 fps. It will be an eye opener.

        4. avatar Defens says:

          George, actually that’s incorrect. The bullet launches from the muzzle, below the sights, and immediately starts falling due to gravity. If you’re sighted in at 100 yards, the bullet may be at the zenith, or may still be climbing – unless you run the ballistics you won’t know – and, at some distance beyond 100 yards, the bullet will fall back through the zero point unless your particular combination of bullet weight and velocity put the 100 yard zero at exactly the zenith (which isn’t likely!)

        5. avatar Nate says:

          What he’s talking about is the BZO that the military uses for XM193 out of a 1:9 twist barrel. They zero the rifle at 25 meters so that anywhere between 25 and 300 meters, a soldier can hit the torso of a man for a combat effective shot without any holdover. I prefer a 50/200 so that the round is never more than 2.5″ above or below my line of sight out to 250 meters. I really don’t see much sense in trying to reach out much further than that with the 5.56 round. And they use meters, not yards. At 300 meters, you would be roughly 330 yards.

      2. avatar strych9 says:

        I’m still not really seeing a benefit here.

        Regardless of how many points are dead nuts on you’re never going to be off enough for it to really matter are you? Besides, the fact that it’s dead nuts on at 25 and 300 only matters at those two exact ranges or when you’re really, really close to them. I zeroed one of my uppers/scopes to 100 yards last year and it took coyotes effectively out to 345 yards with no problem.

        Again, not dead nuts on but not off enough that it would matter unless you were going for serious precision. If it will kill a beer bottle from point blank to 250+ yards I’m not seeing that it needs to be much more accurate for most usages. Am I missing some usage that I haven’t thought of here?

    4. avatar Defens says:

      A 25m or 50 yard zero is a compromise zero for battle rifles or general purpose hunting. It was never meant for precision shooting at bottle caps, and isn’t recommended as such. All it does is guarantee that within 300 yards, a proficient shooter will be within a couple of inches of his point of aim.

      If you shoot mostly at 100 yards, then by all means sight in at that range. If you regularly shoot at 300 yards, either sight in for that, or – better yet – become proficient with using a ballistic calculator and your specific load and environmental conditions to dial in the correct elevation.

      My battle rifles are mostly sighted with a 25m zero. My long range bolt actions are generally sighted in at 200, but I also have the come-ups either printed or programmed into a ballistics calculator. Other rifles, for plinking or general purpose, have 100 yard zeros. It’s really all about your main use for a particular rifle.

      1. avatar strych9 says:

        This explanation (first paragraph) makes sense to me. Thanks for the information. Personally I’ve never seen a 25m/yard target at an actual range. Obviously I could buy one of the paper targets and make my own range but I haven’t bothered to do so.

        As for the calculator I have yet to see a situation where I would use one for an AR (all my AR’s are 5.56). I use a Kestrel/CONX combo for long range work and have never seen the need to build a profile for an AR. I’ve loaded that unit out for a few rifles but really, and maybe I’m just a natural at this (then again I also have put A LOT of rounds down range so I can just kinda guess it pretty well at this point), I can’t see a use for it until I get past 500m. After that I definitely see the usage, especially if there’s any wind to speak of. Darn thing just makes everything so much easier.

        With my current AR builds (all scoped) if you can’t hit a man-sized target with them on a still day out to ~500m then you’ve really got no idea what you’re doing. I zeroed my VX-3i on top of a 16″ competition upper at 100m for my buddy to run the Darin Fink and it worked well for him on all target sizes and known and unknown ranges out to ~430 meters without being rezeroed. He’s not *the best* rifleman by a long shot (pardon the pun) and some of those targets were pretty small (10 or less in some cases”) all things considered.

        1. avatar Andrew Lewis says:

          Cordova Shooting Center in Rancho Cordova Center offers rifle target stands at 25, 50, & 100 yards. A delightful low budget outdoor range they also offer pistol @ 15yds and Skeet/Trap equipment.

  2. avatar Shire-man says:

    Over 6 AR’s and however many tens of thousands of rounds through each I can’t say I’ve experienced an issue with loading mags to 30. I have had issues in the past running the rifle dry. Now I keep them soaking wet and no more problems.

  3. avatar Evey259 says:

    Immediately discounted the opinions held here due to the “28 rounds and strike the mags” advice.

    1. avatar Ziggo says:

      Ditto.

    2. avatar Tile floor says:

      Yeahhhh… you can strike the magazine all you want and still have it fall out from being improperly seated.

      I was taught in .mil to do a sort of “push pull”, firmly inserting the magazine and giving it a tug before taking your hand off it to make sure it is indeed seated.

  4. avatar Rob Gee says:

    I agree with everything except loading your mags to 28. If you can’t get 30 in your mag and insert it on a closed bolt, buy some better mags, or seat it like you mean it. The 28 round crop was for the original 30 rounders from way back in the day. Modern mags and followers should allow 30 without issue.

    1. avatar Falcon 12 says:

      Agreed…push three stripper clips and move to the next magazine. Train the way you’ll fight. That’s not just a catch phrase.

      1. avatar LarryinTX says:

        Stripper clips are a good point. How in hell do you load 28 with stripper clips? Load 30 and discard the mags which do not work that way, they are not 30-round mags unless you can reliably load 30 in them.

  5. avatar BobS says:

    You said “If you don’t shoot well, seek out training” (and thanks for the Appleseed shout-out) but participants of all experience levels report they learned something that improved their shooting. Everybody can benefit from a refresher on the fundamentals, and an experienced eye looking over their shoulder to help discover bad habits. It’s all about showing up with a teachable attitude.

  6. avatar LarryinTX says:

    I know the guns have changed to some extent since my last training in the M-16, but I have to point out that in 1970 the military taught the last step in cleaning the thing prior to reassembly was to wipe it as dry as you could get it, though you were using rags which had a significant amount of solvent/lube on them. Suffice to say the parts would best be described as “damp”. Only shooting I did was a can in one afternoon, twice in one week, 800+ rounds each time, with a cleaning in between, with no malfunctions, although rate of fire on full auto decreased toward the end of the 800 rounds, each time. “Lots” of lube was taught as a definite no-no, lube catches gunpowder residue and keeps it in the gun, eventually causing it to jam.

    TTAG, that cannot be a tough slog, to take a familiar AR out one weekend wiped down to “damp” and run 800 rounds through it, then clean it during the week as described in this article, leave it dripping, then shoot 400 rounds of the same ammo with the same gun next weekend, hose it with a can of gun oil until it’s dripping again, before firing another 400 rounds, then let us know if there is a difference in reliability.

    1. avatar LarryinTX says:

      Both cleaning/lubing approaches cannot be correct.

      1. avatar Curtis in IL says:

        You can watch a dozen yootoobe videos on “how to lubricate your AR-15,” all from seasoned operators, and every one will be different.

        It very well could be that the optimum lubrication for a coyote hunt would be different than what is optimum for desert combat. I honestly don’t know. I figure if the floor of my safe has oil on it that dripped off my gun, I probably applied too much.

    2. avatar jwtaylor says:

      My issued Colt M16A2s and M4s definitely ran better soaked with CLP, but most of my civilian guns like just a sheen of it.

    3. avatar Ken says:

      Yeah, no. Read the Pat Rogers article linked in the post. Having been through multiple carbine courses, including several of Pat’s (and having shot “filthy 14”, the carbine in question), I can attest to the veracity of the lube-it-up theory over the wipe-it-off theory. We run numerous courses through our academy and the vast majority of AR platform stoppages come from lack of lubrication. I’ve never seen one go down as a result of too much lubrication. We had one guy INSIST on running his as you mention. By the end of the first day, having fired in excess of 750 rounds, it was constantly having issues. By lunch the second day, after going through the same process, he relented. Doing absolutely nothing to the gun but lubing it up as noted in the article, it ran for the next two days without issue. I’m a believer. Filthy 14 had over 40 thousand rounds without a cleaning. And it looked it. But it ran. Because it was kept lubed.

      1. avatar LarryinTX says:

        Thanx, Ken, feedback is good, particularly when my training was 40+ years ago. My rifle then was an XM-177 E2, seems like 11.5″ barrel, dry sure seemed to work. But your post reminded me of my 9″ .300 blk SBR, which did in fact stop working correctly until relubed, shooting essentially always suppressed, got filthy FAST. Dunno if clearances have changed or what, but that SBR had maybe 100 rounds through it before it started failing. I shall adjust my lube accordingly.

  7. avatar Jeff O. says:

    There’s a huge difference between standing static at a range plinking and being on the clock.

    I can see how downloading to 28 rounds makes it easier for beginners to load a mag on a closed bolt, and if you screw up your reload on the clock, you might be loading on a closed bolt.

    In the past 3 months I’ve started shooting on the clock seeing how quickly I can put a set number of rounds on each target and going head to head against friends.

    It’s amazing how fast you can screw up when paying for tacos is on the line.

  8. avatar Ken says:

    If you went to Pat’s class, you have apparently forgotten the “push/pull” magazine loading to ensure full engagement rather than striking the magazine on the bottom. Just sayin’. As Pat would have said. 🙂

    1. avatar Tom in NC says:

      Was about to at the same thing when I got to your comment. Thanks Ken.
      The only other thing I’ll add is some tests we did a few years ago showed that CLP was pretty poor as a live – yes I know many people find it serviceable. But running M16s and SAWs showed that FP-10 was far better – no stoppages. No I dont work for that company that makes it.

  9. avatar FrogHill says:

    My wife takes care of me and my match rifle, as she likes to be involved with my hobby.
    My wife even polishes my knob before every match that I shoot in, when she has the knob of my forward assist all shined up and glowing, I then know that she oiled down the entire BCG to perfection, and that my rifle will purr like a kitten all day long, but I still have to do my part and hit the target

    1. avatar Curtis in IL says:

      Tonight, I’m going to ask my wife to polish my knob.
      I’ll let you know how it goes.

      1. avatar FrogHill says:

        The lubed and polished BCG is just as important. If only the very tip of the knob is polished up but not any part of the BCG then someone deserves an “Unsatisfactory” stamped all over their file, amongst other things

        No pre match jitters and hitting the target is no problem.
        It’s a “Group Tightener” ritual/exercise

    2. avatar Mr. Woodcock says:

      Does your wife also slob the knob before matches? This has been scientifically proven to help calm pre-match jitters. Also, after the knob has been slobbed (properly now have you!) you should have no trouble hitting the desired target…multiple times if need be.

      1. avatar Mike says:

        Be careful of negligent discharges when wife is polishing your knob.
        It might just go off when you are not expecting it

  10. avatar The Rookie says:

    I’ll have you know I Iubricate my rifle regularly. Harrumph!

  11. avatar Pacer says:

    Who the heck doesn’t sight in their rifle?

    1. avatar Shallnot BeInfringed says:

      Noobs.

  12. avatar Docduracoat says:

    Another vote for fully loading 30 round magazines
    30 round P mags and 60 round surefire mags will seat on a closed bolt without any problems
    100 yard zero is only for bullseye shooting at 100 yards
    The bullet never rises above line of sight and this makes all other distances have a low point of impact
    The 50/200 yard zero keeps you 3 inches above or below of point of aim out to 250 yards
    That makes head shots possible without any adjustment as long as the target is within 250 yards
    Clean your guns people!
    If you want your gun to last and function in an emergency, then clean AND lubricate it!
    Besides, cleaning guns is a calming experience

    1. avatar strych9 says:

      Just googling the size of the average human head I find that it tends to be 9.4″ in height.

      With what you’re talking about if you’re aiming at the center of the face (ignoring windage) you cannot miss a shot that will take someone out of the fight. With a 100 yard (or any other zero talked about here) at absolute worst you hit them either in the throat or the forehead, either way they’re pretty well fucked in terms of fighting back after a 5.56 round hits them at that range.

      This is why I asked what I asked above. I don’t see much of advantage to the sighting method mentioned and so far no one has provided an explanation for it that actually makes sense other than ease of getting close enough that it doesn’t matter for a “combat sight in” which, as far as I can tell, doesn’t much matter for other sight-in distances within a reasonable range either.

  13. avatar derfel cadarn says:

    First mistake is actually buying one.

    1. avatar Troll Hunter says:

      So, where do you steal yours from? Toys R Us?

    2. avatar Tom in NC says:

      So you prefer a lease?

    3. avatar Scoutino says:

      I agree. One is not enough.

  14. avatar Mark Brockway says:

    According to my Ballistic AE calculator, a gun sighted in at 25 yards will be 3.8 inches high at 300 yards and 0.53 inches low at 350 yards, so why the common 25/300 slogan which doesn’t appear to be true?

    1. avatar Brandon says:

      Switch the units over to meters and run the numbers again. I do believe the 25/300 is meters, but even then the numbers may not be exact, but should be “combat accurate.”

    2. avatar Curtis in IL says:

      Good Lord.
      What muzzle velocity? What bullet weight? What ballistic coefficient? What line of sight height over bore? Do you really think those things don’t matter?

      1. avatar Mark says:

        This is for a 55 gr bullet with a BC of 0.243, a muzzle velocity of 3270 and a sight height of 2 inches.

        1. avatar Curtis in IL says:

          Mark,
          Try a MV of 2,800 fps which is more realistic for a 55 grain pill out of a 16 inch barrel.

          Then try moving the sight height up to 2.25″ is which is common for ARs.
          That quarter inch at 25 yards is multiplied by 12 at 300, so it changes the POI by 3 inches at that distance.

          This is the problem with a “rule of thumb.” Everyone’s thumb is a bit different.

        2. avatar Mark says:

          Thanks Curtis. Mucho appreciated.

  15. avatar AnotherAZguy says:

    Big Congrats to Garrett on the win!!

  16. avatar Dave Ward says:

    Point blank sighting is what most of you are talking about, NOT zero. Point blank sighting gives bullet trajectory a chance to cross at two points. Bullets never rise! If the rifle is sighted at 25, and you shoot at 25 the bullet will never make it to 100. If you are sighted at 25 and raise your barrel to hit at 100, you then create an arc that crosses line of sight twice. Bullets NEVER rise. In a perfect scenario, with a barrel set perfectly level to the ground, a bullet dropped and a bullet shot at the exact same time will hit the ground at the exact same time.

    1. avatar Curtis in IL says:

      Your statements range from confusing to false.

      If you zero for 25 yards and your target, 25 yards away, is level with your line of sight, the bore will be angled up enough to make the bullet rise to hit that target. Past 25 yards, it will continue to rise above the line of sight and at some point downrange it will reach its apex and begin to descend, crossing back through the line of sight at some point.

      This won’t change much if your target is level with the bore axis. In that case, the line of sight is angled downward such that the bullet will rise (relative to the line of sight) to meet the point of aim, continue rising past the line of sight and then fall back through it at some point.

      Go shoot some tracer rounds at a level target 300 yards away. You will see the bullet rise and fall. That is the very definition of trajectory.

  17. avatar Greg says:

    After putting together my first AR, I neglected (as a noobie) to lube the rifle. It functioned flawlessly for about 600 rounds until I realized my mistake, and corrected it.

  18. avatar Chris T in KY says:

    I bought my first AR15 two weeks ago. A Daniel Defense v11. I shot it for the first time last week. I can say it’s better than the M16 and M4 that I carried in the army. I can’t make it a select fire gun. But I would like to get a Slide Fire stock for it.

    The reason is I would like to have a rapid fire long gun just like the police who have been given select fire guns by the Obama administration, from their poilce militarization program.

    It seems a lot of “experts” are arguing on how to zero an AR rifle. Wow.

  19. avatar Yellow Devil says:

    In the service, we zeroed at 25 yards, but I personally never liked that. Most people, including myself, aren’t going to engage out to 300+ yards anyways, so I zeroed my AR-15 at 100 yards. At anything less than that, shot placement is a bit higher, but if you shoot center mass, it will still be on target. But I’m odd like that, so whatever floats your boat.

  20. avatar Dave Lundry says:

    First, I am an AR/rifle newbie. Have shot pistol and shotguns for decades, finally inspired to build my first AR by the gun control rumblings of my state AG (The People’s Worker’s Republic of Washington, if you are curious). For those arguing that a 100 yard (or meter) aim point means that a rifle is dialed in for only that range, does that mean that the top of any bullet’s arc is going to be that range? Or close enough that it doesn’t matter? Seems to me that this is going to depend on a boat load of variables and I am curious about that. Does anyone know (or have a source) that shows such variables and results (in rough numbers)? I’d love to be able to plug in barrel length, twist rate, bullet weight etc. and get results that show the arc of a bullet. I am considering a second build and want to know more before I start.
    For what its worth, I have an 18 inch barrel with a 1/8 twist (I like compromise); all pretty cheap parts. So far I have only shot cheap stuff (55 grain) at 50 and 100 yard targets. Sighted in at 25 yards cause that’s what the range dude advised.

    1. avatar Mark says:

      Hey Bro, I live in WA as well. That cunt Ferguson will be bringing more “rifle and magazine ban” legislation this year again so be ready to fight starting January. Call your reps and voice your disgust!

      1. avatar davelundry says:

        Done, but I live in King County, so all my reps are on the bandwagon.
        The big decision will be the special election Tuesday in the 45th District. It looks like the Democrats will take control of the State senate–that will give Sideshow Bob the bare majority he needs.

        1. avatar Mark says:

          Well, never hurts to fight, and last year it died in committee. Let’s crush it again.
          I live in King country also.

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