Polymer 80 specializes in 80% receivers made from, you guessed it, polymer. Since they’re a maximum of 80% completed, they aren’t considered a firearm by the Powers That Be; these paperweights can ship straight to your door sans paperwork. The end user can then finish the simple machining steps necessary to turn them into functional receivers.

Although Polymer 80 cut its teeth on AR-10 and AR-15 lowers (of which I own two dozen due to some pre-presidential-election “investing”), at SHOT Show this year I focused on their GLOCK-compatible frames.

The full-size (G17-sized) frame offers a high beavertail, undercut triggerguard, flared magwell, normal Picatinny rail and lots of grip texture. It’s available in a handful of different polymer colors.

The compact (G19-sized) frame has the aforementioned features with the addition of a double-undercut triggerguard and a beveled, but not flared magwell. The model above comes with that sandpaper-esque grip texture from the factory.

Alternatively, Polymer 80 sells the same frame in a smooth finish, ready to be stippled, textured and modified by the end user to his or her liking.

MSRP on all models is $159. Ideally, you’d use a drill press to turn the part into a functional lower. But you can complete the work with a Dremel tool and a steady hand. Kits ship with frame, jig and drill bits. You’ll need to provide factory or aftermarket GLOCK internals such as trigger, fire control group, slide stop and mag release parts. Locking block and rails are included with the frame.

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35 Responses to Polymer 80’s 8035 Pistol Lowers: SHOT Show 2017

      • I’ve built AR lowers without any issues. Did two of these and they’re both dropping magazines and failing to go fully into battery, slide hangs up just short of fully locking. (Using Lone Wolf Distributor slides in .40 S&W and internals) Not quite sure where I’ve gone wrong, implemented a couple of possible fixes I’ve seen on the web but haven’t been able to get back out to the range to test.

        • Based on reviews and feedback I was expecting a LOT more fiddling with mine. I’ll admit I was very OCD when it came to fitment of the rear rails (milling/sanding/measuring).

          I was overly surprised when after the first round (ejected but failed to go fully into battery on next round) it has run like clockwork with everything from bulk to 147HPs. I did it on an annual range day with a big group and everyone was surprised how well it worked.

          I do, however, accept that this is probably a far-sigma occurrence based on other user’s reports.

          Still going to build a G19 version. Have all my parts (slide assembly and frame parts kit); just waiting on the my pre-order (sometime in March, supposedly).

  1. I’ll wait to hear a review but I am excited about their new frames.

    Their first efforts just looked piss ugly though, a far cry from the much more refined look they are putting forth on the new models. Whoever thought that first design looked good needs to have their head examined.

    • We have one or two on the way to finish out and review (to include how complicated it is to finish it, and if possible I think we’ll do one properly with a drill press and one with a Dremel)…

  2. I can’t tell you how much I would love to make a g19 off of an 80. Definitely interested in the reviews and possibly a completion video.

  3. They really need to consider re-styling their full-size frame to be more along the lines of their compact frame. Great idea, but that full-size frame is so damn fugly.

    There’s got to be a better way to word this question, but here we go: anyone know if these frames are compatible with Gen 3 butt-plugs? (asking for a friend)

    • “…anyone know if these frames are compatible with Gen 3 butt-plugs?”

      With a generous application of a ‘personal lube,’ it could work satisfactory as an improvised ‘butt-plug’… 🙂

  4. I honestly don’t see the attraction of these unless you’re buying them, and all of the associated parts, with cash. Maybe if they offered a more ergonomic grip, or easily allowed Glock V1/V2/V3 owners to “upgrade” to a V4-esque design. Otherwise, at the end of the day if you are that concerned about government tracking, why not just buy a used Glock with cash? Then again, I’m a cheap bastard, and can’t imagine paying OVER the cost of the original (mostly) reliable product for a knock off clone that may or may not be worse than the original, however it’s extremely unlikely to be BETTER than the original. Sure you can change the color, texture it to your hearts content, but I personally just don’t get it. That said, the more the merrier…

    I’d be arguably more interested in an aluminum or steel copy, however that’d be difficult to finish from 80% without a machine shop… I would think that a heavier gripped glock option would be pretty handy in something like USPSA Open Class, or similar. Or for people who want the capacity/ergonomics of a glock but prefer the softer shooting characteristics of a steel framed gun like a 92fs.

      • CCF has been out of bidness for some years now. I have one of their steel frames that worked fantastically until the leading edge of the non-removable locking block broke off. I think that the problem there was the rigidity of the steel frame versus the Glock-brand Glock frame and there was more stress put on that part on recoil. Maybe.

    • You can use plenty of other methods than cash. Prepaid debit cards (with cash) work fine. Aside from that if ‘someone’ is keeping track of every purchase made with a credit card of various glock internal parts their list is going to be so long that it becomes useless.

    • Id love o see an Aluminum frame… all you’d really need is a mini mill… or even a really strong drill press using really sharp cutters and going very slowly. It can be done. lol that said… if these were cheaper and had better reviews id try one out. I read reviews elsewhere, maybe on the Midway or Brownells sites, that said they crack easily.

  5. I bought one, felt awful in my hand, sent it back. Hard to imagine a grip that feels worse than a Glock, but Poly 80 managed to do it.

  6. anyone know if these frames are compatible with Gen 3 butt-plugs? (asking for a friend)

    Ha Ha 🙂 It’s a gun part/ accessory . . . not an actual butt plug . . . for you, your friend, lover, etc.

  7. VERY interesting! Does anyone know how the grip size compares to a Glock? Is it Small, Medium or Large as compared with the Gen4 backstrap sytem?

    • G17 version has a thicker grip than my glock-brand-glock G34 does. It really is like holding a textured 2×4 in your hand. However, I like the grip angle much better.

      • Nigel, thanks. I’m looking for Glock functionality with the smallest grip. Any possibility for grip reduction? I guess I might as well just start with a real glock, lol.

        • Gen4 with the smallest frame is going to be quite a bit smaller than the full-sized Poly80. I don’t think there’d be a lot of room to shave material either (you’d end up in the hollow portion pretty quickly).

          I’m hoping the G19 Poly80 frame with be smaller in external circumference.

  8. I might just have to get one of these … I don’t really care for Glock-gonomics, but this is starting to trigger my next onset of tinker-itis.

    • They are purposefully devoid of the “Glocl hump” to the point that ergonomics are likely the least of your worries.
      Not sure I want to pull the trigger yet. Might just have a grip reduction/stipple on the one I have.

  9. I’m curious as to the pricing of building a Glock out of off the shelf components. I know that I can build an AR for about $450+- (ignoring ffl fee for the lower). Is it possible to build a notGlock for equivalent to or cheaper than a Glock brand glock

    • More than a new G17.

      You can score one of the G17 version for 99 bucks if you look around. Less with a coupon code.

      If you want to wait for upwards of 6-9 months you can get a complete ‘upper’ for mid 300s from one vendor, otherwise, price jump rapidly from there. Ebay, surprisingly sometimes had good deals on complete glock uppers (note: NOT on G19 complete slide assemblies right now, the market it picked clean from those looking to build the new Poly80 G19 frame).

      Parts kits…OMG some vendors think the parts kits is sellable at 100-125. Midway had a nice sale on a complete frame kit for a G17 for 45 about a month back. Add the one part that is different for a G19 (1.25 part) and that was a deal.

    • Sadly, glock brand glock parts cost as much for a complete slide as an entire pistol. As a previous poster mentioned, this is probably best for a Mech-Tech CCU, or similar. Economically, it’s cheaper to buy a used law enforcement glock than it would be to build this up. Maybe if someone decided to build glock slides for less than $400…

      • Yep, used LEO guns can be had for much less. Particularly 40SW for some reason. You can get a used LEO gun for almost $100 less than a complete slide (barring a 6-9 month wait from a certain vendor).

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