ARmA15_AR

Sometimes the need to secure a rifle arises, but a full-on safe is too expensive and heavy to make sense, or is impossible to fit in a given location. Securely mounting an AR-15 to a wall, such as inside of a closet, to a truck roll bar, trunk, or other place is the ARmA15 locking bracket’s raison d’être. It’s a pretty simple solution for safely storing a single rifle while still allowing relatively quick access. . .

The concept here is pretty simple, and the execution is clean and solid. Powdercoated, 7-gauge steel is used for the majority of the bracket body, and 2-gauge steel (about 0.26″ thick) and a hardened pin are used for the locking mechanism. Two, self-drilling — I still recommend drilling pilot holes! — lag screws are included along with a Torx bit.

ARmA15_hardware

These are designed to secure the ARmA15 to a wall stud. Apparently with this hardware it takes nearly 3,500 lbs of force to rip the ARmA15 unit from a wall. The company also sells a roll bar mount, and with a little ingenuity one could easily bolt it to the support bracing inside of a vehicle’s trunk — keep your trunk gun mounted to the roof of the trunk! — behind/under the seat of a pickup, on a concrete wall, etc.

20150522_191502

In the middle of the bracket is a polymer magazine well block, just like the ones made for bench vices for gunsmithing purposes. The AR-15 slides down onto the mag block and the magazine catch latches it in place. In fact, the rifle never touches metal and metal never touches it. When the rifle is in place, the mounting bolts are inaccessible.

ARmA15_side

You’ll need to have the bolt locked back to the rear, because the polymer mag well block will occupy that space behind the ejection port. In fact, it also prevents anything from being inserted into the chamber. Flip the spring-loaded cover of the ARmA15 up and into the ejection port…

ARmA15_ejection-port

Use the thumb lever to push the locking mechanism up, which raises the steel pin, locking the cover shut…

ARmA15_lock

This is where your padlock goes. Key lock, combo lock, slick Master Lock Speed Dial — whatever you want.

ARmA15_locked

While ARmA15 sells this Quick Wall Mount specifically for AR-15s, it’s worth mentioning that it will work with a lot of rifles and “pistols” that accept AR-15 magazines. For instance, it works just fine with the Tavor…
ARmA15_Tavor
Also very much worth mentioning, the ARmA15 can be mounted sideways so as to hold the rifle vertically (see video above). I actually think this is greatly preferable for use inside of a closet, which is the #1 suggested install location for this thing, since a vertical rifle will be much easier to pull out through clothes and fit through a doorway.

Just keep in mind that a vertical rifle installation means only one lag screw will be in a stud. Well, unless you happen to have a horizontal stud in the right place. Anyway, you’ll want to put one in the stud and the other into a burly anchor.

Conclusions:

I like this thing. It’s a simple solution for securing a rifle in a place where you don’t want or need a safe, and it’s significantly more secure than the “vaults” or “locking cabinets” that a lot of people mistakenly refer to as safes. The quality is very high and it functions just as advertised — remove the padlock and the cover plate flips open, push the magazine release, remove the firearm. In ARmA15’s YouTube video, they take the rifle from locked up to chambered and ready-to-go in about 3 seconds.

Mine has been bolted in a bedroom closet in a family cabin. As I’m only there occasionally, I’m not going to purchase and schlep a safe out there, which would also take up too much closet space. I do like to bring a rifle to the cabin, though, and now it has its own spot, inaccessible to kids, guests, bears, sasquatches, etc.

ARmA15_close

My only real complaint is the price. It isn’t outrageous, but at $129.99 I can’t help but feel that it’s more expensive than I’d expect to pay. Maybe if it had its own, integrated lock system I’d be better able to get behind that MSRP. I’d like to see a version that’s specifically designed to hold the rifle vertically, too.

Specifications (ARmA15 AR15 Quick Wall Mount):

Material: 7 gauge and 2 gauge, powdercoated steel. ABS polymer magazine block
Included: Torx self-drilling lag screws (5/16 x 3″), Torx bit
Not Included: padlock
Optional: 2.25″ roll bar mount
Fits: AR-15 rifles and pistols. Some other firearms that accept AR-15 magazines.
MSRP: $129.99

Ratings (out of five stars):

Ease of Installation * * * *
If you can use a stud finder (mine always freaks out when it’s within a few feet of me) and a drill, you’ll have no problem whatsoever installing the ARmA15. It’s infinitely easier than “installing” a many-hundred-pound safe!

Quality / Security * * * *
It’s definitely solid. The hinge is likely the weak point, although it’s properly welded in and the pin is a thick piece of solid steel, and I’m not sure the cover could be removed from the firearm even if the pin were broken/drilled out anyway. If ARmA15’s claim that it takes almost 3,500 lbs to rip it off the wall is even half way true, even Khalid Bin Mohsen Shaari couldn’t get the thing off.

Firearm Access Speed * * * *
How fast and simple it is to remove the firearm is going to depend a lot on the lock used. That Master Lock Speed Dial is pretty sweet, and with one of those in place on the ARmA15 it’s faster and easier to get the gun in play than with most safes, vaults, trigger locks, etc.

Price * *
Again, I don’t think it’s out of “acceptable” range and I definitely think there’s still good value here, but if I had guessed the MSRP up front it likely wouldn’t have been much more than half of actual. That said, $130 is still a heck of a lot less than a safe.

Overall Rating * * * *
Simple, strong, versatile, fast. Not all situations require securing a firearm, but the ARmA15 fills a niche for those that do.

74 Responses to Gear Review: ARmA15 AR-15 Quick Wall Mount

  1. My first impression is that it’s okay for a non-moving installation, but for a car mount I’d worry about the force from all of the jerking around from bumps, turns, potholes, etc. being concentrated at one spot. Particularly for a weapon like the Tavor or other bullpup, where the mounting point is far from the CG of the weapon.

    • John,

      I have rolled around with one of these in my jeep YJ for 6 months now. Off road in big bend, and 3 other off road week trips and no issues. The only thing that is touching your rifle is high strength ABS plastic. The steel is engineered to not touch your rifle only secure it.

  2. That is awesome, well except for the price. At $130 I’ll eventually get one for the bedroom rifle, but if it were half that, I’d order one right now.

    • I have one it’s 2.5 lbs of steel. I’d bet the steel and materials alone is more than 70 bucks not to mention the quality hardware and welding that went into this. I think 130 bucks to know my rifle will be there when I return is a cheap insurance for such a quality, quick, yet very strong product. Once you have one in your hands you can appricate more. It’s much thicker steel than found in gun safes…

        • Crow bar away at 3500 lbs pull force you must be superman. Your not pulling out the lag screws….

        • Mike Stone – screws do not handle shearing loads very well, crook doesn’t even need a crow bar just grab the barrel and yank it up and down in a clockwise/counterclockwise motion and those screws will rip and twist their way out of the stud. Yes that will likely damage your AR, no the perp likely doesn’t care.

          This mount could me massively improved (I hope they are listening) if they added a brace that kicks out to an adjacent stud to add a 3rd point of contact with the wall and captures the muzzle end of the rifle to prevent it from being used as a self contained pry bar and resiste any torsional shearing forces from grabbing the barrel. Then the crook at least needs the right tools to cut sections of the wall out, although that also takes a whole lot less than 3500lbs of force.

          The thing is, all of us probably have the basic tools in our garages that would make something like this very easy to defeat.

        • ^ While that is true, the idea of any theft prevention device is more to make it a bigger hassle than it is worth.

          I own a gun safe. With a heavy enough tow rope and chains you could get it out of my house with a truck, or tractor, or a bulldozer. You would likely destroy everything inside it doing so. That doesn’t mean you couldn’t get to it’s contents with enough effort.

        • I am not quite sure what engineering book your reading for sheer strength of 5/16 x 3 inch lag screws. The very least I see is 847 lbs per screw x2 screws is 1694 lbs of sheer strength which would be very hard to achieve… I also double checked the pull strength and that also matches up with what they advertise.

          Everything I see as an engineer and in construction field makes this thing look rock solid. I am not sure where the internet imagination has taken us. Can you get this out? Sure but you will be there a while and others have talked about beating down the entire dry wall around it and sawing off the stud. Yeah that’s gonna take some time. Most break ins are snatch and grab not camp and break down walls and get caught. I have a house alarm so the time will be ticking if they get in my place…..

          Its much easier to get into a steel gun cabinet that is usually 16 gauge steel with cabinet locks that can be defeated by a screw driver. But to people perception is reality.

        • Look, I’m not going to spend $150 to buy one of these and then potentially ruin an AR proving my point. I will say this though, I’m not actually worried about the screws literally shearing off, when I said shear strength (I realize I might have used the wrong word, not an engineer) I meant the fact that screws screwed into a pine stud do a great job of resisting pulling out of the material when a trying to pull them straight out but do not do as good of a job holding horizontal/shearing loads.
          So what my hands on experience from building (or usually destroying) things built with wood and screws tells me is that if you grab the barrel of a rifle mounted in this thing and torque it around like you are yanking a slot machine lever and the screws will bend the wood will split, repeat a few more times in and remove the ar15 from the wall.

        • Tex,

          I too work in the construction field and my best guess is your thinking of a wood screw not a structural lag screw. These things are not frequently used as there cost is nearly 1 dollar per screw, I too think you would have a much more difficult time getting it out than you imagine with the normal wood screws your used to. Even so a 5/16 is a very large lag screw. Another note this screw was improperly used in the video you never use self drilling lag screws that close to the end of a piece of wood. Had he done it about 3 inches down it wouldn’t have split at all as he did in the video.

          Tex, don’t take it personal bro there are screws out there that can make it where you will have to rip the whole stud out to get it out… I am just glad to finally see a company use the right hardware for the job.

          These 5/16 x 3″ lag screws can be bought at your local hardware store you can drill 2 of them to a 2×4 to a tree the 2×4 length of your rifle and see if you can pull it out. If you break the 2×4 you lost… as the arma15 wont break but we are testing the screws in this test… Ive done similar tests and I think you would be surprised….

        • 70 dollars in material costs no. But get a quote from a metal fabrication shop to cut and form 3/16 steel, this is not cheap. Anyone can bend typical 14-16 gauge material. Realize most gun safes (not cabinets) are 10-12 gauge and this is thicker than your typical gun safe. Not easy or cheap to bend cut etc. Labor is where the cost is not material.

        • Joe, As I mentioned above I worked in sheetmetal (precision) for over 40 years. As I’m sure you know, the way to bring cost down is mass production. I have no idea how many of these things they had made, but it’s very easy to cut them out with a laser or water jet.
          As small as they are, a little 4 ton brake will pop these babies out, hundreds a day.
          Of course, if they are only making up a couple hundred at a time, it’s gonna cost!

      • Haha, 2.5lbs of steel doesn’t cost 70 bucks.

        And that 3500 lbs is only true if the wood it’s drilled into is impervious to breaking (it’s not).

        • Ironwood, but realistically yeah, it’ll keep the honest honest. I don’t see it as preventing theft, so much as securing a firearm away from a kid.

        • Yes, assuming it’s mounted to a standard-construction, interior wall you could make two horizontal slices (one above, one below) through the stud with a sawzall then just pull the chunk you’ve made right through the drywall. Obviously there are other types of walls that would make removing this thing significantly more difficult, like the concrete foundation wall that’s pictured in the review above…

          But a professional team breaking in with a plan and proper tools is going to defeat just about anything. For my purposes 95% of my concern is keeping overly-curious kids and adults from having access. I want the rifle somewhere easily-accessible to me but secure from anyone not willing to do property damage just to hold my rifle. Sliding the AR under the bed or propping it up in the closet doesn’t cut it. This thing does. The other 5% is actual theft prevention upon a home burglary and my feeling is that this will defeat most of those guys anyway, as I don’t think they’re likely to arrive with the tools needed to get the rifle off the wall and I don’t think they’re going to spend the time trying to do so. Hopefully it’s enough of an impediment that they’ll go for valuables that aren’t secured, like TV, laptop, Hillary Clinton bobblehead collection, etc.

  3. Sure! It’s a lot cheaper than a safe! But a safe will hold a lot more than just one gun.
    A a retired metal worker, the only way I could justify the price would be a short run.
    Also, they should have designed it so it could hold the gun in a vertical position, as well as horizontal. A simple adapter plate would work.
    For a Benjamin + 30, you can get a pit bull to keep in the closet!

    • “Also, they should have designed it so it could hold the gun in a vertical position, as well as horizontal. A simple adapter plate would work.”

      Agreed.

      Not an adapter plate, though.

      They should have designed it larger so both vert. and horizontal mounting could be done.

      It’s interesting, but $130 is a lot of money for what you’re (not) getting.

      • Yeah, a larger plate would be the way to go. You can get a pit bull at the shelter maybe for nothing but shot cost etc.
        Keep the sucker in the closet where your guns are at! The perp might get your gun, but he’ll be dripping blood, and slipping in shit all the way out the door!

        • Let my pit bull in my closet? Im sure your just joking but ive owned a lot of pits but i wouldn’t leave them in my closet in 20 min or less they can do 500 dollars worth of damage to all your shoes clothes or what ever else they wanna chew on. smart burglars bring bacon … ha

  4. Yeah, I was right there with getting one, until you got to the price. Good grief! For the cabin situation mention a stack-on safe is the same price (or less) and you can bring more than one gun.

    • Frankly, the ones in this price range are just metal cabinets and can be popped open with a flathead screwdriver in like 2 minutes. It’s still a great solution for keeping kids and guests out — people who are curious but have no bad intentions — but I actually think this wall lock thing is significantly more secure than the various cabinets and “vaults” out there.

      • right next to the remark “Does not play well with others” my 2nd grade teacher Ms. Grundy wrote in my permanent record? giggity. in case anyone else was concerned, lock picking, lock picks and books on lock picking are not illegal to own or use by non locksmiths. Pick any locks with permission by the owner, pick your own locks for entertainment or any other purpose. I have picked locks on guns and gun cases at ranges with permission from the owners of said locks. it sucks when they have a day at the range planned and forgot the keys at home. I get a grateful look and a “thanks for saving the lock” afterwards. It’s also a useful skill for the zompocalypse.

    • Why? Springs do not wear out from static loads (as in compressed) or static unloads. Springs wear out from use as is the actual movement. Pens don’t explode from just sitting around regardless if they are clicked or not. Car springs do not all of a sudden fail from the weight of the car on the springs in driveway.

      • Since you seem to know something about engineering principles, I am just going to say one word: Creep. How hot does it get in the trunk of your car? I live in Phoenix so it regularly gets over 110 outside, which easily translates to 150 in the trunk.

      • It isn’t quite full compression… and you’re already compressing the spring to half its length just to get the buffer weight into the tube anyway 😉 …and yeah, the overwhelming consensus is that it’s cycling that eventually wears these sorts of springs out, not sitting at some degree of compressed state.

  5. Had me until the price, not enough there to justify that, I have steel gun cabinets for securing them that cost less than that and will secure multiple guns. They aren’t gun safes but they accomplish much more than this will for the price.

      • And it appears to come with a dingus to put in the next stud to support the barrel. I’m going to buy one of THOSE instead.

        • Unfortunately, it looks like the actual lock mechanism of that one is just one of those flimsy “lockbox” type locks. It probably wouldn’t stand up to a sturdy screwdriver.

          Clever that it holds a magazine at the ready, though, so you can unlock and load it up in very short order.

        • That entire thing is made of plastic. From the product description, if you couldn’t tell from the photos: “Glass reinforced Nylon construction…”

        • Actually, its not, entirely, made of plastic. It has a similar(polymer) mag well insert as the Arma15.

    • Yeah a screw driver could get into that lock they have on the midway product. What I like about the ARmA15 you can get a quick pad lock or use a ultra secure pad lock when your away. The midway unit is a joke.

  6. I like this device. The price is high but it seems like a great idea. I only have 1 rifle and do not intend on buying more any time soon. I definitely didn’t want to invest in a gun safe, one for the space and two the price. I do wish it would mount vertical for the price, and I also would like it to come with a pad lock or something for the price. I might actually get one though.

  7. Great! and if you own a claw hammer not only will your ar15 get stolen you will also get to patch the gaping hole in your wall… Perfect!

    These kinds of “security” devices are gimmicks at best, great way to keep a toddler out of your AR and maybe the worlds most inept thief from just walking out of your house unencumbered. Most of these devices though hinge on the assumption that the thief actually cares if they damage whatever you are trying to protect with this or the substrate to which it is mounted. They don’t, and what will likely happen is they are going to tear a massive hole in the wall and probably destroy the upper and lower receiver in the process. If you are lucky they might give up and decide to leave you a pile mangled AR parts when this happens.

    My wife’s uncle is a general contractor and he showed me some pictures of when got to repair a house where thieves had pulled a gun safe out of a second story window by hooking it to a tow truck and dragging it through two interior walls before it came crashing down to the driveway below. Anything in that safe except for money/documents was likely ruined at that point, but the thieves could probably care less. Pawn it for a couple hundred and move on to the next place.

    I do kind of like the idea of mounting it under the seat though. Still probably not very secure.

    • Tex,

      WIth 3500 lbs of pull force the claw hammer isnt going to do it but if you drive truck into the house and hook it up that will do it. I have heard of recent people having entire safes ripped out of the concrete floors. This also enables you to do something you cant do very easy with a safe. Hide it. Check out the video on there website where its behind a picture frame or clothes. Its harder to steal if you don’t know its there. That being said its pretty solid.

      • The hammer isn’t used to pull out the screws, the hammer is used to destroy the drywall around the stud, then the thief can get at the screws from the side, where they have far far less than 3500lbs of holding strength.
        Any decent thief could get that out of being placed in a stud, using only a hammer and a little saw, and it would take very little time.
        Not to mention, dumb thieves are likely to simply destroy the AR-15 in trying to get it off the wall.
        It looks pretty decent for securing a firearm in a locked area, such as a vehicle while traveling, or to keep kids from handling the firearm, but it’s not acceptable for theft prevention.

        • My engineering book on these 5/16 screws shows that sheer strength of 847 lbs x2 1694 lbs total. Your not gonna hammer your way out. I am curious where your numbers are coming from because they arent matching up with mine. My guess is you just havent worked with 3″ heavy duty lag screws… they are stronger than you think. Do your own research with empirical data.

        • 1694 lbs / 16 inches (barrel length) of leverage means it would require around 105 lbs of pressure at the end of that barrel to overcome. If it is mounted vertically, this might present a (very) slight challenge to some (scrawny) thieves. If it is mounted horizontally, there are very few thieves who weigh less than 105 lbs. If they do, they can go pick up your 20lb bag of rice or something to kick it up a notch.
          Remember: “Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.” — Archimedes

        • You don’t have to shear the screws off, all you have to do is twist it enough to split the 2×4 it’s screwed into. Have you seen the shit lumber they build houses from now?

        • My engineering book on these 5/16 screws shows that sheer strength of 847 lbs x2 1694 lbs total.
          Lag screws are not any stronger than the material into which they are secured.

          Your not gonna hammer your way out. I am curious where your numbers are coming from because they arent matching up with mine. My guess is you just havent worked with 3″ heavy duty lag screws… they are stronger than you think. Do your own research with empirical data.
          I work with lag screws constantly, I’ve had a house that between October 2014 and February 2015 was broken into 12 times. 1/2″ level 8 4″ lag screw into double joisted 2x12s merely slowed the IQ 80 thief for a bit. Since we finally caught the thief, that’s not a guess at his IQ.
          Lag screws into wood are not much of a deterrent to someone who actually breaks into a home.
          The screws are not the weak point, the wood is.

          You may have some book knowledge on this matter, but as a practical matter, you really don’t know what you are talking about. I could get that off the wall in less than a minute with a pry bar, if it is secured into wood.
          I know, because I’ve destroyed numerous things than have been lagged screwed into wood.
          Even when I managed to secure something near impossible to pull out of wood, level 8 bolt through 4×12 with metal plate backings on both sides, secured inside a 10 gauge box, the same thief simply ripped open the 10 gauge lock box to get out the security camera, and this was while he was standing on a ladder 10 feet off the ground.
          There is no way that mounting is going to stop any thief who wants a firearm that it is securing.

      • Bull, there is no way The two screws pictured above are going to hold that thing to a 2×4 and Sheetrock with 200lbs man going at with a hammer, crowbar, or heck just hanging their whole weight off the barrel to gain leverage. If it spanned across two studs I might believe it a little bit more. Again, the success of this product (and anything like it) hinges on the assumption that the prospective thief actually gives two shits whether or not he destroys the thing he is trying to steal.

        • Absolutely.

          There’s a reason why stolen guns are so banged up and have scratched off serial numbers! I’m betting I could defeat this with a crowbar and a hacksaw in less than 5 minutes.

          Still a neat idea, but 3500 pound under absolutely ideal conditions does not equal 3500 pounds of strength in real life.

        • but 3500 pound under absolutely ideal conditions does not equal 3500 pounds of strength in real life.

          Exactly, some people seem to think listed strength is actual strength.
          If it’s 3/8 drywall, the lag screws lose 3/8 in dept, as drywall has negligible holding strength, and a thief can get to the lag screw by bashing into the drywall.

        • Xanthro… Yep! And then with the drywall out of the way you either gorilla it off the wall by rocking it back and forth until the stud splits or you give it about 15 second with the sawzall that most of us probably have sitting in our garages.

          You want to protect it from theft, hide it in the attic or buy a real safe. You want to keep the kids out of it, there are plenty of options at way less than $150 that do that.

  8. DevilNuts
    A simple adapter plate can be made, so you can mount the AR in a vertical position.
    Just saying, a safe can hold a lot more than just guns. Everyone has valuable papers, maybe jewelry. ammo, cameras, just to mention a few reason to have a safe. Even one of the small $300 one are better than a shoe box.
    Any safe should be through bolted to the wall, or floor.

    • Gunr,

      Most 300 dollar safes have cabinet style locks your generally paying 700+ for a real safe not a gun cabinet with thin steel. That being said this product doesn’t seem to be designed to compete with big safes. More of mount anywhere and quick and stops the person who doesn’t have all day to try to defeat it. I just ordered one for my truck gun…

  9. Yeah, it does look to me as a solution in search of a problem, especially at that price.

    On a side note, I was taken aback when I saw the Sharp Shooting shirt, as I have one just like it.

    A fellow Spokanite, how cool is that? 😀

  10. I have one designed for patrol cars. It can be roof, roll bar, or flat mounted.
    It’s release is either key or 12 volt dc.
    It’s the same one that’s in cop cars. It ran me 90-100 bucks at a gun show.
    Once you hit the electronic release, you have 5 seconds to open the gate, so you can hide the electronic release button…

    • The electro-lok is a tough bastard. However, it has two basic problems:

      1. It needs power to release the gun.

      2. All you need to do to steal the lower receiver from an AR-15 is to remove the 2 takedown pins and cut the sling.

      Yep, I could steal the locked AR lower out of many cop cars in about 30 seconds.

      Unless you have something better than that, or have a shroud which protects the takedown pins. If so, my apologies.

  11. Interesting idea. Like many of the other commenters, I assumed a lower price. At the beginning of the article I wondered if it would fit my Tavor, and like some kind of majestic oracle, Jeremy read my mind and answered my question before I even finished asking it. I’ll keep my eye on this.

  12. I could rip this off the wall with one arm behind my back in less than 30 seconds. All’s I would have to do is grab the barrel and pull. By the time I had it pointing towards the floor it would pop right off and I’d be out of there.

  13. They could have done us a big favor by integrating a high security lock. Forgot the key to a disk lock and a couple minutes with a bolt cutter took care of that. If the bolt is hidden then bolt cutters won’t work. Everyone thinks those cylinder locks are hard to pick, but with a low cost tool they are easy.

    Yes, make it mount both ways and put a good lock in it and it will be almost worth the price.

  14. I would buy one at $130 for a truck mount set up behind my rear seat, and even a wall mount in my safe room. I live in Australia so the average Jo here don’t have ARs how ever we have Remington 7615 pump action rifles and even straight pull rifles based on AR platforms. I agree that these will 100% eliminate theft, but they certainly make it a pain in the ass and a noisy and time consuming process for one rifle, hardly worth the effort of the bad guy more then likely.
    I like how it gives a stable and compact mount option for a vehicle mount (with some added install work needed) and is secure and quick access. This will meet transport requirements In most Australian states too, great for those who travel out bush a lot and also live out there.

  15. With a little planning this could be defeated within minutes; however, most thieves know they usually have less than 3 minutes to take what they want. That said, if you come home to a destroyed house and a thief has taken this then most likely it is someone you know who knew where to find it and what they were up against before they broke in. If you have so many friends that know where your stuff is and how it is secured that you can’t quickly figure out who did it then you are too careless with your privacy.

  16. I think the idea is great i just bought one problem is after I attached it where the lock latch is, i noticed the pin that holds the arm closed when you put the lock in there could easily be Sawzalled because of the thickness of the metal its a little piece of metal about 1/8 rod definitely needs improvement. wish I could show pictures on here.

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