P1370539

I fully admit to being a 300 AAC Blackout fanboy. Ever since Kevin Brittingham handed me a suppressed 300BLK HK416, I was hooked. A heavy-hitting caliber in the same familiar AR-15 platform? Sign me up! So as soon as I got back home, I started trying to build the perfect AR-15 in the wonder caliber. And after much trial and error, I think I’ve got it figured out. Let me take you through my journey, with pictures and build notes from each step of the way . . .

My first foray into the world of 300 BLK was a 16″ version. I didn’t have an SBR-ed lower receiver handy, so while I was figuring out how to get that done I bought a 16″ 300 BLK upper from AAC and started tinkering.

300 BLK rev 1, c Nick Leghorn

The first iteration came out as a lightweight, minimalist build with very few extras. I didn’t have a silencer yet and didn’t think the round had much capability beyond 100 yards so I designed it like your standard “gunfighter” rifle — lightweight as possible and with as few attachments as I could get away with. The only “tactical” accessory I added was a TLR-1 flashlight, as I figured it could pull double duty as my home defense rifle.

The rifle ran fine, but the configuration didn’t make sense given the actual performance profile of the caliber. I was treating it like a short-range round when in reality the gun is comfortable even at medium range (200 – 300 yards). Also, after the Crimson Trace Midnight 3-Gun, I realized that the TLR-1 just wasn’t putting out enough light for a rifle light and replaced it with a Surefire P2X Fury.

I brought the rifle out to Texas for my first hunting trip in this configuration, but after seeing the reality of hunting in my future state of residence I wanted to make a few modifications before taking it back out into the field. I needed to get a little more distance out of the gun and thankfully a few quick tweaks turned it into a completely different rifle.

300 BLO rev 2, c Nick Leghorn

The second year, I was ready. The rifle was perfectly configured for hunting here in Texas and allowed me to take down a beautiful buck within minutes of hunting season opening. But as always, there were issues.

Like I said, the rifle was perfectly set up for hunting, but that was before the paperwork for my silencer came back. The beauty of the 300 AAC Blackout round is that it’s so perfectly designed to run quiet in a suppressed rifle. So the very next purchase after my 16″ 300 BLK upper was a 762-SDN-6 silencer. The 16″ upper was good enough when I didn’t have a can, but when you add all that weight to the end of the gun it becomes remarkably front-heavy and long. It was no longer acceptable.

Still, while I was waiting for my silencer paperwork to come back, I kept telling myself that the 16″ version was good enough. But having tried it, the truth was that it didn’t make a whole lot of sense. Especially when the ammunition is designed to burn completely in 9″ of barrel, there’s no appreciable benefit to having those 7 extra inches. I needed an SBR.

I wanted to use an ATF form 1 to make my SBR, meaning that I’d be the manufacturer and therefore would need the name of my trust and my location engraved into the side of the lower. I considered getting the DPMS lower engraved and even filled out a form 1 to start the paperwork, but then I was given a Franklin Armory rifle to test out and fell in love with their lower receiver design. I asked really nicely and they custom-machined one for me with my information on the side before sending it to be annodized, meaning that there wouldn’t be any shiny spots or other blemishes in the finished product. I sent off the form 1 for the lower even before it arrived at my FFL. A few months later I had my stamp in hand.

300 SBR, rev 1, c Nick Leghorn

As soon as the paperwork cleared, I sold the 16″ rifle and bought a 9″ AAC 300 BLK upper. I decided to go with a mixed flat dark earth and black color scheme to match the dirt here in Texas. I also upgraded the glass on the rifle from the Millet scope to a Leupold Mark AR Mod 1 1.5-4x.

The Millet scope had served me well, but it didn’t have all the features I wanted. The reticle wasn’t quite as detailed as I’d like and the turrets left something to be desired. It was a great beginner scope, but I needed to move up. Leupold sent me the scope to review and after I was done there was no way it was going back. So I bought it from them and then bought a second one for my competition rifle. If that’s not a glowing recommendation I don’t know what is.

The final change was going back to a telescoping stock from the fixed rifle stock that I was using on the latest iteration of the 16″ gun. With a 16-inch rifle, the extra length didn’t really bother me. But now that I was able to make the rifle much more compact, I wanted every single inch I could scrape off the gun.

At that point the rifle was good, it still could have been better. And there were three final tweaks to be made to get it to that perfect configuration.

HuntingRifle3

The first tweak was upgrading the flashlight on the rifle. I had been using a P2X Fury, but my guy at Surefire handed me a M600 Scout Light and a KM2 white/IR head for the flashlight that would let me take full advantage of the night vision monoculars that Optics Planet had lent me for a couple months. While the flashlight performed as well as the older version in terms of output, the ability to switch to IR, as well as the included tape switch, made it much more convenient and stealthy, something I really liked.

Change #2 was an internal adjustment. Now that the gun was much quieter, there was still the minor issue of the buffer spring making an awful racket in the stock. That needed to be eliminated, and thankfully JP Enterprises was on hand with a solution. Their silent captured buffer assembly completely eliminated the noise and made the rifle more enjoyable to shoot.

The final change was more cosmetic than functional. ODIN Works sent over a red XMR magazine release and it just looked bad ass on my gun. Needless to say, it was a keeper.

As far as I was concerned, the rifle was now perfect. Unfortunately, while the configuration was great, the parts didn’t stand up. The silencer was the first to go — the ratchet wore out on the 762-SDN-6, and while AAC happily replaced it (and re-cored my entire can), I didn’t want to have to deal with a “fast attach” silencer again. The other thing that gave out was the barrel, since apparently stuffing tens of thousands of rounds of ammo down a metal tube has a tendency to wear it out pretty quickly. I needed a new silencer, and I needed a new upper.

P1370539

The silencer was the easy decision. Having been burned once already by fast attach silencers, I wanted something direct thread this time. I reviewed the Liberty Mystic-X not too long ago, and it fit the bill exactly. A lightweight silencer that provided good sound suppression and sported interchangeable mounts? Sign me up! I ordered one up, and when it arrived it not only looked great but also made the gun feel a whole lot lighter.

The barrel was a little more challenging. I had gone with an AAC upper receiver last time simply because that was really the only quality thing available, but now the market was awash with .300 BLK uppers of all shapes and sizes. I had my pick of the litter, and the Noveske 10″ .300 BLK upper receiver assembly spoke to me. I haven’t owned a Noveske product since I sold my first competition rifle in exchange for flight hours, and the rail on their upper receiver looked much slicker and cleaner than the AAC version. I had been mulling it over for a while, but when one showed up in my local gun store I was finally able to see it and touch it in person — and bought it on the spot.

One last modification was the bolt carrier group. The Noveske upper came stripped, so no internal parts. I added a BCM Gunfighter charging handle and the Cryptic Coatings bolt carrier group I tested a while back, and everything was right with the world once more.

I took the gun out to the range to test it out, side by side with my existing setup. With my previous “final” configuration, the gun was shooting 1.5 inch groups at 50 yards. With the new setup, I was down to 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards. A much needed improvement.

Total cost: ~$4,764.90

That’s where the gun sits today, and I don’t foresee any major changes anytime soon. I actually plan to use this gun a lot less — I’m building the old upper into a new PDW build for farting around purposes. This gun just graduated to “safe queen” status.

72 Responses to Building the Perfect 300 AAC Blackout Rifle

    • What a great comment contributing to the article.

      Hey Nick, any chance you could give us rough estimates of the costs for each build?

      • Agree, a cost breakdown is realistic and helpful for us working class peons.

        ensitue, I’m no Haley fanboy but the guy sold me on 300 blk. Google the vid with him hitting steel at 700yds. Ffffing impressive. But maybe that’s beneath you….

        I hope the caliber becomes a little more mainstream to bring down the cost. This was predicted to happen a while ago, but has not. I’d love to switch out the barrels on my ARs and run this round.

        Technique on Calguns also built a beautiful AK chambering 300 blk:

        http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=810080

  1. I have built several 300 AAC Blackouts.

    Noveske 16″ and 8.2″
    Palmetto 16″
    AAC 9″ and purchased complete AAC 16″ upper

    Palmetto is the only one that I have with 1-8 twist barrel. The others are 1-7 twist. The short barrels I run on pistol lowers. I enjoy running suppressed on the short barrels. It is hard to get ammo to shoot these. I have some left, but I am not using it until they make more. Call me paranoid. I have Aimpoint Micros on the short barrels and open sights on few as well as 1-4 powered scopes. Fun round with minimal recoil. I run a Spikes T-2 in all of them.

  2. That bug bit me hard almost a year ago. I started my build in January. Learned how to make my brass watching your youtube video, so I spent a weekend cutting and forming 500 rounds of brass while waiting for parts. Got lucky ordering projo’s directly from Barnes.
    I’m liking that XMR mag release. That’s cool.
    I’m super happy with the performance of the round.

  3. I like the round, but there’s no way I’m getting into it unless it comes down in price. There’s just no point in owning a rifle I can’t afford to feed on a regular basis.

    • Y Not just invest in a single stage press an reload your own 300 blackout ammo. Theres plenty of places uou can go to to learn reloading. 5.56 mil brass is plentiful. Youll need a way to get the primer crimp out then a cheap chop saw. Buy you some bullets, primers an powder an load your own. In time youll perfect your own round to your own rifle. In time the initial cost of equipment surpasses the cost of buying 20 round b boxes of commercial ammo

  4. I started building my first 300 BLK AR-15 about three years ago. I now have three.

    My first was a pistol with pretty generic parts, nothing too exciting.

    My favorite is:
    AAC brake / can mount
    9″ Noveske barrel
    Troy Alpha Rail
    LAR OPS-4 upper & BCG (I don’t like having all that crap squirt in my face from the T-handle and forward assist).
    New Frontier Polymer Lower
    JP Quiet Spring
    Geissele SSA-E trigger group
    MagPul MBUS
    Whichever Aimpoint I feel like using that day
    Magpul MOE grip
    Pistol buffer tube (no evil SBRs in WA)

    I also have essentially the same gun with a 16″ barrel, an MOE stock, and a generic mil-spec aluminum lower.

    And I have an AAC 762-SDN-6 that I can swap around between them. When I get my thunderbeast can, I might build a fourth and pin the AAC can to a 10″ barrel, so I can put a rifle stock on it without risking a felony.

    • build a fourth and pin the AAC can to a 10″ barrel, so I can put a rifle stock on it without risking a felony.

      Now THAT is a cool idea!

  5. OK, the BIG question is, how much did this all cost you?

    Two ways to answer:

    1. Total cost for the rifle (with all tax stamps, etc.) as it is configured now.
    2. Total cost for all the iterations and trial and error that got you to this point (assuming one actually purchased all the review gear that you tried but didn’t like or upgraded from later on).

  6. Where is the ammo for this? I am no paying $1.25 a rd. and many companies will not honor reloaded ammo for their warranty.

  7. I love my rifle how it is now, but if it wasn’t for all the paper work, cost/rarity of 300BLK, and dealing with the ATF, I would definantly change.

  8. At this point, 300BLK is really best suited to people who can load their own. That said, the (VERY) cool thing about it is the case is based on what is probably the most common (brass) case in the US.

    It’s obviously a very versatile round, and I think that if it were not for the silliness that enveloped the firearms industry/market over the last 11 months, we’d be seeing a lot more 300BLK ammo available for purchase. Alas, the silliness occurred, and it’s tough to find… and expensive when you do. Then again, .22LR has been the same way.

  9. Nice rifle.
    Question, could you just keep your 5.56 barrel twist at 1:7 and buy the 70 + grain ammo,i.e. MK 262, and have all you need and similar performance? Slower bigger bullet…..

  10. Thanks, Nick. I’ve got a buddy who’s cloning a Mk18 – I suggested he look at .300AAC instead of 5.56 after reading this.

  11. To admit blasphemy: Got to try an AK74 in .300blk, ultimak rail topped with a Rakurs & poly. Funds permitting, this is my next build.

  12. Instead of switching to a shorter barrel, why not load with a slower burning powder and get better performance out of the round?

  13. Wife gave me a 12.5″ AAC full upper last Christmas. I’m not a reloader (yet) but the few times I’ve found reasonable ammo, this thing is fun.

  14. Nick I’m looking at a 14.5″ build; what gas system will reliably cycle round both super and sub sonic with an sdn-762? Should I look for pistol or carbine length?

  15. It would be strongly advisable to drop the suppressor and spend the savings on better equipment. A much higher quality scope, mount, lower, and trigger are needed.

    In my opinion the 300 blk is a waste. If you want a 30 cal, a 7.62 is your only logical choice. Buy a used LMT MWS and call it a day.

    • My view is the opposite. I have money earmarked for a suppressor when I leave California. I could spend it on other accessories now, but a suppressor makes a firearm more tolerable to shoot under any conditions.
      Better optics and such would be marginal improvements over what he already has.

  16. .300 blackout worst idea ever. It’s basically just trying to be the 7.62×39 without a tapered cartridge and I think most become a fan of it just to try something new. It serves zero purpose, it’s worthless in shtf scenario, ammo is so limited and unless major nations take on the .300 there will not be an expansion of ammo or guns and parts for that matter, ever available like the .223, 30-30 and .308 ect ect. Many firearms manufactures have decided NOT to produce firearms in this caliber with ore to come. This is a toy caliber, it’s for fun and nothing more. It’s a idea too little too late.

    • “It serves zero purpose, it’s worthless in shtf scenario”

      I know, right?!

      I got shot full in the face with a 300BLK the other day and it was a minor annoyance at best. you could NEVER use this round to defend your home, hunt hogs OR repel raiders!

      Oh, Wait, i seem to have mistyped “Keep your wrong opinion to yourself, lars”…..

    • Yes, it does mostly duplicate 7.62×39 without a tapered case, but it works better than x39 in an AR platform, and it was explicitly designed for suppressors and heavy subsonic projectiles. It also uses a standard .308 bullet size, while the 7.62×39 uses an uncommon 0.310-0.311 bullet, which makes it difficult to reload properly.

    • it’s worthless in shtf scenario

      With a suppressed 300BLK I can get anything you listed and more in a SHTF scenario.

  17. Too many polarized opinions out there regarding 300 BLK….most of it too judgemental and impractical.

    300 BLK has only been out like 3 years. Obviously ammo availability isn’t going to compare with other calibers that have been around 50, 60, 70 years. Helloooo?

    I guess silencer and SBR shooters are a different breed in the firearm community. Most folks like to ooohhhh and aahhhhh and giggle when they hear and shoot NFA toys. But the next minute they whisper about how they’d never spend the extra time/money on them. Slackers 😉

  18. Can’t agree with people who call 300 Blk a waste in general. Yes, if you want supersonic only, a 7.62×39 or 7.62×51 would be fine. Getting a reliable subsonic suppressed round out of those in semi-automatic is problematic. The whole point of 300 blk is to offer optimized subsonic capability for the AR platform, while still offering performance at least on par with AK when supersonic. So… if you never plan to go suppressed, yes, 300 blk may be a waste, but if you plan to go suppressed subsonic, it’s the best option in an AR platform.

  19. Have you looked at North Eastern Arms Compact Carbine stock? They are really able to shave some inches off of a rifle.

  20. What kind of end plate/sling attachment is that you have on the very first picture? I need that for a folding stock lower I have built.

  21. Sorry I meant the second picture. All black rifle.

    What kind of end plate/sling attachment is that you have on the very first picture? I need that for a folding stock lower I have built.

  22. Awesome post. I’m new to the .300 AAC BLK platform. I was looking for a replacement for my stolen SKS rig to augment by Bushmaster XM-15 so I picked up a PSA 16″ upper for an Addax Tactical/CalGuns lower I had in the safe and fell in love with the combo and the cartridge. Now I’m toying around the idea of building a bolt gun. Given the cartridge’s ballistics, what is the maximum length of barrel that you would recommend for supersonic loads in the 110 to 165 gr. range out to 300 yds. max. I’m guessing that an 18″ barrel with an 1-8 twist would be the max. recommended but I figured I’d ask. Would love to go suppressed but it’s not doable in the People’s Republic of Kalifornia. Thanks!

    • Earlier in this “thread the author mentions that 300BLK, ..” was designed for full powder burn in a seven inch barrel”. This may be correct, and I won’t doubt it, but if you handload I’m sure there are listed loads that utilize a bit slower burning powder that will allow more velocity in a longer barrel. But as it is a small case for a 30 caliber round I might suggest 16 or 18″ barrel max in a bolt-action. May as well go at least 16″ to avoid the need for a $200 SBR permit.

      • Definitely not going for an SBR in KA (CA), it would never be approved. The thought is to pick up a Mossberg MVP Predator Rifle on .223 Rem, model #27724 http://www.galleryofguns.com//prod_images/27724.jpg as a starting block and then rebarrel it to .308. I really like that fact that I can use my AR mags and that pricing comes in at just under $550.
        Too bad they do not offer their 27724 in .300 BLK.

        • Not sure if that was a typo or not, but you can’t put .308 rounds in a .223 rifle just by swapping out the barrel. .308 needs different Lower and upper receivers cause of the mag size and ejection port. I’d hate you see someone spend money on something like that and end up getting screwed. hopefully that was a typo and you meant .300 AAC. Good luck!

    • It’s a Lancer AWM. I think it’s the translucent ‘smoke’ color. AWMs are really nice, and have stainless steel feel lips for durability.

  23. This may seem crazy coming from a woman however being 48 yr’s old and love guns my boyfriend suggested that he and I build me an AR 15 300 AAC Blackout for under a 1,000.00 depending on what I find in my researching this gun. I Got to hold one today the kid was trying to sell me some 300 AAC Blackout ammo that wasn’t the 300 AAC Blackout, I showed him what I have on my key chain is really what I was interested in looking at and he still insisted that it was. Well I let him win that given I’m new to this however before we start to build this wonderful man made rifle I have to know everything about it so that I can respect it more knowing that the man I love knows everything there is about any type of gun he has shot competing, bought and sold guns for over 30 years. However this is knew to me I have shot all of his guns the one I love the most and feels good to me is his AR 15 with no kick back since I’m only 4’11. I have shot his AK-47 it left bruises on me so no way. I’m a little scared think that is normal for anyone going into something so blind I’m the kind of woman that loves research and once I start the research and convinced its the best for me to build then I will build it with him. I just don’t want him to be upset with me if I change my mind. I’m getting more excited yet doing all of the research before the build starts hope to have this gun by my 49th birthday in 2015. Where can I research all of this besides the internet if anyone could help me I would appreciate it. We are going to all of the guns shows in the 4 states that we can so that we can make sure its the best gun for me. Heck it took me 6 years to find the perfect 9 mm SW because of the grip on the pistol my hands are smaller than most women so I tend to be more picky with what I want when making such a purchase as guns it have to fit me perfectly or I won’t even consider buying a gun. I did get to hold an AR 15 300 AAC Blackout at the last gun show it felt so good in my hands the price was 1,800.00 it was the most perfect fit for me however I still have reservations about such a big purchase and wonder if maybe need to go out and shot his a few more times before we even start the build in the fall!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Forgot to mention loved the article that you wrote it was an excellent article thank you for taking the time to write it.

  24. Valaria, if it’s a 9 in barrel your looking for, Google redx tactical and look at there site. I just got my 9inch upper from them for 475. Then just a lower for a few hundred and a bolt carrier group. Ares armor has em for 100 bucks. Hope this helps.

    • Thank you very much guess what I’m looking for is something that isn’t so heavy and that will be legal in the state of Mo. I have found out about the tax stamp recently thought about doing it however the wait time is 9 months for the paper work to finish.

  25. So let me ask a question and please bear with my ignorance. I have a 5.56 PSA upper with 16″ CLB and CMMG lower already assembled with quad rails and optics.
    It shoots great.
    I have a duplicate stripped lower, an AR10 billet, a polish bent 80% and a hungarian ak-47 parts kit on the way.
    I definitely want to have a bigger grain round available to me hence the 7.62.
    But im kinda torn whether to build out the AR10 or just go the easy route with the 300 blk? The AK variant is great in CQC but I want a rifle good for hunting too.
    Btw I also have a remington .270
    Should I mill out the .308 AR10 or go for 300 blk (which is for shorter barrels and I live in CA)?

    • 300 BLK really works best in a short barreled rifle, and makes the most sense if you only own an AR-15 and not an AR-10. If you don’t see the expense and the size of a .308 being an issue then go that route instead.

    • Neither,
      Drop the 308 and go a 260Rem in your AR10. Forget the Blackout unless you want to shoot suppressed subsonic at 100M ranges only.

      308 is a 20th century caliber. 260Rem, 6.5*47 and 6.5 Creedmore are 21st Century calibres. Most shooters who shoot Sporting Rifle at Raton use the 6.5 round due to the lower recoil and higher BC than 308. You’ll get an extra 200M range using 6.5 before it goes transonic/unstable.

      I suggest looking into a Lilja drop-in barrel for your AR10, or asking Mark Hofstedder at Precision Firearms to put together an upper for you (with a Krieger, Shilen or Lilja barrel)

    • One glaring error I disagree with…The author claims that factory ammo burns all powder by the 9″ of barrel length, suggesting the other 7″ is ‘wasted’. Standard cycling powders used for heavy subsonics such as ADI2207 and 4198 have only burnt 89% of the powder by 9″, and 94% of all powder by 16″ (source, Quickload ballistics program).

      More importantly, the muzzle pressure (or sound) doubles from 2750psi for a 16″ barrel to 5170psi for a 9″ barrel. The point being, there is more sound for the suppressor to cope with in a shorter barrel, plus all that unburnt powder flaming and eroding the baffles of your expensive can.

      12.5″ and a reflex/over-barrel suppressor would be more of a compromise if length is an issue. All things being equal however anything shorter than 16″ is going to be louder.

  26. Thanks for sharing.
    My impression of this calibre having owned one since the first hit the shelves is that it is ‘Jack of all trades, master of none’. It has an artificial reputation from clever marketing hype, exaggerated by wanabe’s who shoot paper targets.

    I have tried all sorts of projies including dedicated 220gr subsonics from Outlaw State (the Le-High Max Expansions are too light to cycle in a carbine gas length). Factory ammo just uses existing math ammo with the only dedicated slow opener is Barnes TacX.

    Supersonic Blackout comes out second best in supersonic hunting to faster .223 ballistic tips. Faster rounds are flatter shooting and so more accurate anyway. Subsonic 220-240gr is still only 2/3 the available peak chamber pressure so subsonic Blackout is an ‘underload’. Essentially you are shooting an accurate Colt.45 handgun round, with less ability to open-up and cause a decent crush-trail in flesh. That said, I will take kinetic shock and a temporary wound cavity over a subsonic crush-trail any day. Animals drop faster with TWC’s.

    Then there is the weight of the ammo. Supersonic Blackout is twice as heavy as .223 and subsonic is three times. Try humping 300rds of subsonic (6kg) around in the hot sun.

    But…a subsonic Blackout is a great identity prosthetic if you are the type to use guns to ‘complete the incomplete’. And there are plenty of insecure tyes out there who get a short barrel and silencer and think they are Rambo/Delta/007/Super-Special Force.

    Me, after three years of testing and hundreds of dollars in handloads I am back to hunting with the good old .223

    • It has an artificial reputation from clever marketing hype, exaggerated by wanabe’s who shoot paper targets.

      Uh huh.

  27. Did you use the Tungsten upgrade to the JP enterprises captive buffer spring, or the one they sell as “regular”?

  28. I was always curious as to the supersonic performance of this caliber, say from a 20 or 22″ barrel. I know there are better options available.. However, the fact that many of the same parts from yhe olde AR15 can be recycled with 300blk (Especially magazines) is what appeals to me.

  29. I am using this post as a guideline to make my own and have two question. I too have a trust for my NFA items but have never filled out the Form 1 (Application To Make And Register…) as I have never put anything together.

    1 – Would you be willing to send me a copy of your filled out form 1 (using your trust). If so my email is jeffery(dot)swan[AT]gmail(Dot)com Please note the spelling of my first name is atypical (er vs re).

    2 – Once your lower is registered as an SBR, can you use any number of uppers that are SBR or longer?

    Thanks In Advance!

    Great article BTW!!!

    Jeff

  30. That’s a lot of waiting time to build another sbr. By the photos it was worth it. Im still waiting for my 300 sbr stamp. I was going to go with the aac 9” upper but after reading this maybe noveske or Daniel defense would be better. I guess ill find out soon! Ohh jeff you can use other sbr uppers once you have the stamp. but remember when you fill out a form 1 you have to say the length of the uppers barrel. So when you travel with it have the right one on your lower receiver.

  31. Wow, just wow. fantastic article and I’m glad Google lists it up top. Helped A TON in my research for 300 AAC parts for my 1st build. Working on my Form 1 this week and I’m glad my family still has the trust… Hopefully in 7 months ill have a whisper quiet 300 like your own!!

  32. Hey Nick, thanks for the great article. Any chance you could revisit it and update the links (a great many are broken or lead to a dead end)? And also include a “long term test” update with performance notes or changes that you may have made since this was published?

    Thanks again for a great article!

  33. Did not think Texas allowed hunters to use flashlights on rifles while hunting deer. I have been using a PWS built 300 Blk w a 10.5″ Bbl, a Silencerco Harvester Can and either Freedom Munitions or Silencerco 200 gr sub ammo for Yotes, Cats and Whitetail. Only add ons were a CMC trigger, an Odin ring to keep Sig Brace stationary, and a green designator from Abe Electronics ( Amazon). Red Dot from Primary Arms set at 75 yds laser set at 200. Has been easy set up, all in < 2500 USD. Could of cut another 2 bills had I the patience to work sales.

  34. Changing the barrel length from 9″ to 10″ requires a change to your Form 1 right? Or did you file an addendum for multiple barrel lengths?

  35. I’d just like to inquire about the fde paint on the lower? Any idea on who did it? Cerakoted? Duracoat? Rattlecan? Brand?

    Cheers

    • Brandon that is just the color of the Libertas lower from Franklin Armory. Click my name and let me know if I can be of further assistance.

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