By Grady Powell

Bad guys are becoming more bold and aggressive. Understanding that valuable items and softer targets are more likely located in more affluent areas they are increasingly targeting suburban homes and neighborhoods in historically low crime areas. As with most things the sage Boy Scout motto of “Be Prepared” applies.

1. Plan it, drill it. Everyone remembers the fire drills that were practiced in elementary school. The alarm bell sounded and a swarm of generally chaotic creatures with an inclination for ignoring direction suddenly fell into line and moved to a predetermined point of safety with precise exaction. In the same vein, create a simple plan to move everyone living in your house to a pre-determined point of safety, which ideally will be room with few exit points. Only leave the security of the room you are in if other loved ones need to be secured. Everyone should know what starts the plan . . .

An alarm, a whistle, or predetermined action initiating word. Adults should plan to move to children or the elderly. Older children should move to younger ones and they should all move to a predetermined meeting point or hiding place in the room, and stay put.  Panicked people tend to wander if they don’t have a highly defined place. Designating these locations will give you the ability to discriminate targets far more quickly and effectively if an assailant has made it into the kids’ rooms.

Using techniques similar to those the police employ to deal with active shooters is best for the solo shooter: Don’t clear every room or move tepidly through the house. Instead, move quickly and decisively to the objective point and only engage bad guys that are an immediate threat or in the way. Understand the layout of your house and identify likely entry points/weak points. Set up a primary route and secondary route if available to get to your objective and plot out areas an invader will be likely to move through or toward. Move to the hold point and wait it out. Remain silent and listen. After sufficient time has passed, then go through the home. If anything indicates that an intruder is present, call the police and let them clear the house in a team. Better to look a little sheepish than go on a one-man house clearing suicide mission leaving your family members unprotected.

When you call the police, tell them precisely where you and your family are located in the house. Tell them that you are armed, have received firearms training and that all your family members are safe and secure with you. Ask them to carefully and loudly identify themselves when entering your strongpoint. Once the plan is set, drill it multiple times. Practice. Practice. Practice. Your wife may think you’re a tin-foil-hat-wearing wack-o and the kids will think it is cool. Run through it several times, both during the day, then again at night with low light/no light. Then have an occasional surprise drill. If and when the real thing happens, you’ll be surprised to see how a standard operating procedure keeps a stressful situation a lot calmer and more coordinated.

2.  Have an early warning. Police response to home alarms are notoriously slow and often set as a priority right above extracting cats from trees. Forget or even disconnect that part of it, but have a good alarm system installed set to activate instantly when a door or window is breached and use it religiously so you’ll be acutely aware of the moment someone enters your perimeter. You have the luxury of knowing who belongs inside those walls and who doesn’t. Once your alarm system is in place, the moment you hear it go off, it’s time to execute your plan. Make sure to disengage the alarm quickly so your hearing can be used to detect interior movement.

3.  Prepare resources. Make sure firearms, flashlights and telephones are readily available. Waking up to an alarm, still foggy from sleep, is not the time to be fumbling with combination locks on a gun safe or scratching through your drawer looking for a light. Install quick-access gun safes next to your bed and make sure a phone and flashlight are on the night stand. Practice using them.

An good alternative is a vehicle-style shotgun lock like those used by police. These can be attached to bed frames and hidden by dust covers but accessed with a hidden switch. Computer cash drawers can be purchased on eBay for peanuts and with rudimentary knowledge of electronics, wired complete with battery backup and hidden activation switch. Stash an old cell phone and charging cord in the stronghold room. Even deactivated phones can still call 911. Also, store critical first-aid supplies, such as a CAT tourniquet, quick clot agent and any prescription medicines necessary for household members. If for some reason you take a hit on the way to your secure point you’ll be able to buy yourself time.

Add a few bottles of water for a short potential wait. Enter the direct dispatch number for the local law enforcement on your phone and print detailed directions to your house and to the stronghold inside the house and tuck them away in your safe room. Direct dispatch will almost always function faster than 911. For the ultra-prepared, a great innocuous cover barricade can be made by putting a full set of bookshelves, tightly packed with books, in a strategic place in your stronghold room.

4.  Harden the structure. A man’s home is his castle and one of the best defenses is making your castle a more difficult target than your neighbors’. Encourage the assailant to choose the path of least resistance and go down the street. Remove shrubs and plants close to the house that make good hiding points. Better yet, replace them with thorny bushes that will discourage anyone from trying to move through them. Consider glass bricks as a relatively cheap and bombproof replacement for exterior windows in first floor bedrooms. Use quality locks and, even more important, install door jambs that will resist kicking and crowbars.

As a super economical alternative, drill 1-inch holes in the floor at the foot of both sides of the door and place pieces of steel pipe in them to secure the door at night. While not exactly esthetic pleasing, the pipes can be easily removed and the holes covered by an entry mat. Make sure that entry and exits points are well lit and windows are covered to prevent people from getting a look at the valuables in your house. And get a dog- even the small ones bark when they sense an unwanted presence near or in the house.

5.  Get Adequate and Applicable Training. Don’t let the first time you shoot your gun in the dark with a light be when a bad guy has just broken in. The fewer first time variables you experience in a real fight, the better off you will be. Numerous schools exist that provide valuable instruction and practice in night shooting, civilian room combat and scenario-based gunfighting skills. Often this instruction is provided by individuals with substantial combat experience. Many, including Asymmetric Solutions, use full-size ballistic house mock ups that allow the shooter to simulate tactical movement through the structure while engaging strategically placed targets.

Also consider taking an intensive first aid course that will help you deal with a serious medical issue while waiting for the police to arrive and clear your house. Wilderness first aid classes designed to teach civilians how to care for major medical problems when help is at a distance are far more intensive and full of practical knowledge than the basic “call 911 and apply direct pressure” quickie basic first aid/CPR courses. Asymmetric Solutions would, of course, like to be a part of your training and offers a wide spectrum of reality-based training courses to civilians. If you don’t use us, find a solid firearms school and make sure you’re prepared. We can vouch for CSAT, TFTT, Gunsite and EAG Tactical from personal experience, but there are plenty of other good ones out there. Bottom line: making holes in paper down a shooting range lane will not – in any way – prepare you for the real fight. Reality-based training will.

These steps will be met by some with the thought that, “Home invasions are rare and would never happen to me.” That, of course, is usually correct. Insurance companies are highly profitable institutions that bet on bad things not happening. Still, nearly all of us spend thousands yearly with insurance companies to prepare ourselves for those rare contingencies.

We will also hear the classic “That level of preparation is paranoid.” One man’s paranoia is another man preparation until the preparation is needed. At that point paranoia is reclassified as insight. I’m not paranoid when I drive my car because I wear my seatbelt any more than my grade school principal was paranoid when he made us do fire drills. Being prepared gives you options and puts you in greater control of your situation. While home invasions are relatively unlikely, consider the value of the people and things inside your four walls. Personally, I will never let a few dollars spent on training and equipment, a little inconvenience and time spent in planning and practice and the imposition of a plan for my family be too great a cost to increase the surety of their safety and well-being.

 

Grady Powell is chief civilian instructor at Asymmetric Solutions. AS is a special operations training facility on over eight square miles outside St. Louis, Missouri employing an instructor cadre of former SpecOps personnel. While AS primarily serves the Department of Defense it now has open enrollment classes for the civilian public.

67 Responses to 5 Tips For Preparing A Defense Against Home Invasion

    • Me too. All of that sounds like a good way to slow down those pesky no knock raids if you ever find yourself on the wrong side of the law or an oops wrong house.

    • I live in a three story condo, my neighbors wouldn’t like steel pipes dropping into their entry way. As an alternative a 4×4 wrapped in the gripping rubber cabinet lining keeps the door from being pushed open with too much ease.

      • The idea of the 2×4 with that kitchen cabient anti-slide liner is good, but only against the door.

        If the door is followed by carpet, the uncovered 2×4 will work well.

        If the door is followed by tile, linolium, or wood, the liner will fail—after a while—because of dust build-up. I know because we tried the 2×4 with such on our front door, which is followed by hardwood parquet.

        Our solution to bracing the front door is from Amazon…..

        http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YUX8I/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

        • You could buy small barn door steel “U” clamp the size of a 2×4 and lag bolt it to the bottom of the door frame and paint it the same color as the frame and drop the 2×4 in it at night. I did this on my man door to the garage , but at the level of the dead bolt.

    • I’m a woman and I live in small Columbia sc if I have to kill to perfect me and my two daughters then job done I’m teenage size and to a lot of bums I’m perfect target we need cops on every street corner of Columbia sc period

  1. I forget the name, but buy one of those flashlights with a tube connected to it… inside the tube have a layout of your house and a spare key for the police. If your secure point has a window, throw it out the window and alert dispatch of said flashlight/tube thingy.

  2. On #4: Miniature Schnauzers make some of the best alarm dogs on the planet. Between that and ratting, it’s one of the things they were designed for. They WILL hear it and let you know loooong before you hear it.

    • Your basic 4 legged, furry noise makers are a good idea if you have an alert breed.
      Also, not all dogs have the required temperament or personality to be guardians.
      I have a friend whose dog will quietly run away and hide at the first sign of danger.
      You get no bark, no growling, no whimpering, not a peep from his Mexican rat dog.
      And I thought all Chihuahua’s were feisty, tenacious, and protective noise-makers.
      Can you imagine waking up to find someone is rummaging around in your house,
      and your dog has silently run away, and is hiding somewhere in safety? Yeesh!
      If this is your dog, get another dog, or go with the house security upgrades.

    • Ah yea, an idea that has been working since man started barring his doors with a wooden beam. The key to this type of defense is not the bar as much as the anchors. They must be deeply set with lag bolts in a big piece of wood, or they are no stronger than the latch mechanism you already have..

        • Door jambs are some of the most egregiously neglected weak points in most houses.

          Every time I see a deadbolt latch-plate pinned onto the standard flimsy 3/4″ pine door frame with little 3/4″ decorative screws, I cringe. One hard kick right next to the knob will splinter the doorjamb and all your illusions of safety. Takes only about 5 seconds to bust the door in, and that’s even allowing for followup kicks. I know this, because I’ve done it myself (for demo purposes, not criminal ones; I was a door builder/installer in a previous life).

          The least you can do is get some 3″ deck screws and sink them through the latch plate and doorjamb into the 2×4 stud behind. It won’t stop a misguided SWAT team with a battering ram or a breaching shotgun, but it sure will make the bad guys work hard for their entry…or give up when they realize how much time and noise they’re making. If nothing else, it will give you time to call 911, get the family to a safe place, and tool up.

          You can also get decorative brass plates to reinforce the latch and knob area of the door itself. This is a good idea if you have a wooden door or one of the ubiquitous insulated steel doors with steel sheeting adhered to wood blocks at the hinge and latch points. An unreinforced door will give way before a properly secured deadbolt will.

          And this is cheap preparation — less than 20 bucks for the hardware you’ll need.

        • I went one step further. I installed a 3/8″ steel plate between the door jam and king studs. Used 3″ screws to tie the latch plate and all together. if you’ve ever looked at the jam, it’s not one solid piece of wood. It’s small pieces glued together with finger joints. At least my door is. One day we came home and saw the jam pushed out at one joint. We figured someone tried to kick in the door. I just hammered it back in place. Worked real well, prevented that forced entry.

      • Add a storm door, an extra step that a bad guy has to go through to get in. Yes they can force it open or break the glass, but both take time and make noise.

  3. I’ve mentioned this before, but motion sensing light switches in areas you expect a BG to move through will both encourage a hasty exit and ensure you aren’t shooting in the dark.

  4. “Bad guys are becoming more bold and aggressive. Understanding that valuable items and softer targets are more likely located in more affluent areas they are increasingly targeting suburban homes and neighborhoods in historically low crime areas. ”

    This site is called “The Truth About Guns” please provide some evidence that this is true. Nothing wrong with these tips per se, but crime is at historical lows.

    • I lived in the worst neighborhood in San Francisco for 5 years, and people always asked me if I was afraid of my home getting broken into or other things stolen. The answer was no. The criminals who infested my neighborhood didn’t break into houses in the dang ghetto! There’s nothing to steal. They went to the nicer neighborhoods in the city and broke into homes there. Duh. Who’s breaking into poor peoples’ homes? If you were a burglar, you’d also go to the nice, suburban neighborhoods where people feel comfortable and leave their doors unlocked AND have valuables.

    • “Statistics released in this report indicate that the number of violent crimes reported in the first six months of 2012 increased 1.9 percent when compared with figures from the first six months of 2011. The number of property crimes increased 1.5 percent for the same time frame.”

      FBI Preliminary Semi-Annual Uniform Crime Report for 2012.

      The FBI does not keep separate statistics for home invasions, since it isn’t defined the same way from state to state. In fact, most states don’t break out home invasions from similar crimes, such as burglary and robbery. So, we’ll never know whether homes invasions are on the increase or not.

      But it wouldn’t hurt to plan for the worst case.

    • No one said the crime RATE was up. I think everyone can think of a case where a home was invaded in a historically low crime area. Criminals have cars now. The classic notion of good neighborhood/bad neighborhood is mostly irrelelvant.

      • It is still relevant with respect to street crime. You are far more likely to get mugged or shot in the street in a bad neighborhood than a good one.

    • Last Spring we had three broad daylight break-ins within two blocks of our house in one week.

      This historic neighborhood has many affluent residences. We live in a 1901 4-level, three-wyth brick house of 6500 sq ft, built by the vice-president of the big bank in town back then.

      Fortunately, I’m a retired infantry officer, so I’m here most of the time. And I’m well prepared, trained and capable of using firearms. Plus, I’m getting tired of punching holes in stationary paper plates.

    • TTACer,

      My stepson’s bike was stolen and my wife’s 4Runner was broken into on the same day, and I live in a nice neighborhood in Brea, CA. I worked with the local PD and my son, and was able to recover the bike. We took prints off of the 4Runner and matched it to a 4Runner stolen a few blocks away. The car thief committed a minor traffic violation the next city over and was subsequently arrested. The juvie never saw any jail time, and the car thief will be out soon. They both know where we live, and know that we helped to prosecute their crimes. They also have previous record, so I very much doubt that any rehabilitation has occurred.

      Stats are all well and good, but if it happens to you, I’d just as soon be prepared. As a side note, I was packing when I scared off the car thief and helped to catch the juvie (who I found by his photo in the high school year book). I never confronted the car thief because be took off as the garage door was opening.

  5. Good article. I abide by the Groucho Marx tagline, “I could go on talking to you kids forever, but it’s time to play “You Bet Your Life”. When the situation occurs it is exactly too late to do all the things you wish you would have done, talking time is ended. Fortune favors the prepared.

    A few things I would add is (just my opinion/.02):
    – Select a lawyer now. Ideally, find someone with experience in self-defense cases. We’ve heard hundreds of times- don’t talk unless your lawyer’s present. Well, wrong time to be finding a lawyer is right after a shooting. Have their number programmed into your cell phone.

    – Plan. It should include preparing for the arrival of the police and avoiding getting shot by them in the various end-of incident scenarios. Dead/incapacitated attacker, attacker held at gunpoint, attacker/intruder fled the scene etc. They won’t automatically be able to sort out the good guys from the bad guys. Think about it now.

    – Training, ensure it covers the laws in your jurisdiction.

    • That was funny as hell. Now, replace BB gun with 12 gauge shotty, and the sequence would be a bit shorter.

      Edit: Oh, they didn’t show the bb gun in that edited clip 🙁

  6. TO: All
    RE: The Tips

    [1] Practice: Get some airsoft pistols or such and have some ‘fun’ while training to find the best firing positions in various parts of the house.

    [2] Early Warning: Put some Passive Infra-Red (PIR) sensors in various parts of the house, e.g., inside storm/screen doors, that will send an alarm to your bedroom if they are opened in the middle of the night. X10 used to have such that you could connect to your computer that would send such a message. Maybe SmartHome has them now….

    [3] Prepare Resources: Don’t lock your firearms in a safe you can’t access in less than a minute. When seconds count……

    [4] Harden the Structure: There are plates you can install in the door frame that make it impossible to merely kick a door in. Apply boards or bars to brace doors. Amazon offers some interesting devices for such. Grates across windows at ground level are useful too.

    [5] Get Training: Good idea, that. Become an Airborne-Ranger, if you can. If you can’t, well….see what you can find.

    Regards,

    Chuck(le)
    [Chance favors the prepared mind.]

  7. Become good friends with your neighbors. Especially the nosy busybody down the street who is always looking out his/her window. If you can not be friends, at least be nice. Remember opsec. A preplanned FPF always beats an adjust fire mission when the bad guys are already in the wire.

    Every time someone you do not know drives down your street, pull out your cell phone and at least act like you are recording them. Obviously, this works best on a cul-de-sac.

    Tactically arrange your furniture. No straight pathways inside the house (if you drink a lot, this could be painful).

    Never answer the door without a firearm in your hand. For those that carry all the time, this means put you hand on it.

  8. An alternative to the steel pipe: replace your deadbolt with at least an ANSI Grade 2 (or 1). At the very minimum, you should replace your deadbolt’s security strike with a thicker one (you can find these anywhere), and replace the crappy 3/4″ screws that are barely holding it in to the pine door trim with at least 3″ long ones so that they go into the 2×4 frame of the house. Otherwise kicking in your door is scarily easy.

    To prevent silent entry (bumping and picking your average lock is very easy), I got a Grade 2 deadbolt that uses an unbumpable, near-impossible-to-be-picked (no one has ever done it yet) Abloy Protec2 cylinder from BayAreaLocks.com (it comes with a high security strike plate that has holes big enough for the type of screws that can be easily found in 3 or 4″ lengths).

    It was more expensive than a crappy old lock from Walmart, but it also gives me piece of mind.

    • Deadbolts can be kicked in. I’ve done it myself.

      Hence my reference to a steel plate designed to fit in the door frame that the regular and the dead-bolt will work with.

      NO ONE, except the Hulk, can kick that in.

  9. My addendum to number 5: If you wear corrective lenses for distance vision practice shooting in the dark without them. If you’re woken up in the middle of the night you certainly won’t have time to put contacts in and you might drop or even break your eyeglasses while fumbling for them, your gun, and your phone.

    • Someones eyesight would have to be worse that that sorry sap whose glasses got stomped in the confusion in the tunnels of The Mummy…..

  10. Pretty in depth suggestions, I’m not all that worried about home invasions though. Anyone wanting my stuff will have to get through 3 large American Staffordshire Terriers that wake up easily. If they can subdue my Hellhounds, they will have to deal with an insomniac, gun toting former Army aviator who likes his stuff, dogs and wife much more than they do. Luckily for them, my wife is a nurse.

      • Unlikely sir, they bark, I wake up…their bark is much nicer than their bite…and I don’t bark. In any case, I’m sure once confronted with my my snarling beasts, they’d just move on to the cat loving, Mercedes-with-an-Obama-sticker-on-it-in-the-driveway, much nicer liberal house next door.

        • To: Chuck

          Re: Heh

          Luckily for me I’m a straight arrow type. It would have to be a wrong house no knock raid. I’ll take my chances. Hillsborough County Sheriffs are generally good guys.

          Regards,

          Jared
          [Force and mind are opposites; morality ends where the gun begins.]

        • TO: JaredFromTampa
          RE: Straiight-Arrow or Not

          Once can always be SWAT’d. Or a wrong address drug raid.

          And, as I said earlier, the first things cops shoot are barking dogs. Happened that way at Waco. Happens all the time.

          P.S. And the home invaders and murderers are getting more sophisticated.

          Look at what happened to the Colorado Department of Corrections chief…..answered the door to a guy with a Dominos shirt and delivery package and got himself murdered. The murderer having murdered a Dominos employee to get the shirt and delivery package.

    • My wife is too. I’ve decided that I must ensure that she has no work to do. She’s grouchy when she loses sleep.

      Ex: It’s ok dear. The EMT’s are here to remove the garbage and I’ll take care of the cleanup. You go back to sleep.

      • Not to sound gung ho or anything, but for the sake of my savings account, I’d sorta hope it was the coroner coming to take out the trash, and ServePro via my homeowners insurance cleaning up the mess…on a night when the Mrs. Is working the graveyard shift.

  11. TO: Dan Zimmerman
    RE: ‘Paranoia’, Anyone?

    The only TRUE paranoids….in the clinical sense….are atheists…..

    Angry atheists are, by definition, ‘clinical paranoids’, afraid of an entity that they swear doesn’t exist.

    Regards,

    Chuck(le)
    [Freedom is just a hallucination created by a pathological lack of paranoia.]

  12. TO: TTAG Staff
    RE: [OT] Who the Flock is SAAMI? And Why Should I Care?

    I’ve been on a search mission this afternoon, after the encounter with the adult black bear last week.

    I’m trying to determine the best load, i.e., grains, powder, velocity, psi, for a Tarus Judge to cope with a bear: black, brown, or grizz.

    Tarus has been unhelpful. They refer to SAAMI. But SAAMI doesn’t recognize that Tarus exists.

    This is dumber than dirt. How can SAAMI, which claims to have been around doing weapons v. ammo consideration since 1926 NOT KNOW about Tarus? Let alone ‘bear load’ ammo?

    This should be an alternate discussion thread. And maybe it will show up here.

    Regards,

    Chuck(le)
    [Ignorance is the root of all evil.]

    • This is a case of lawyers playing “pass the parcel.”

      Let me back up a bit here and give you some background:

      We have no “proofing” laws here in the US. We have no proof house, either. We have nothing at all like the proof houses of Europe, who will certify (with a stamp, their name and professional liability) that loads up to “X” will work in your gun safely because loads up to “X” were tested in the proof house and the gun was found to be sound after the test firings. The closest thing to a proof house we have is a private lab, HP White:

      http://www.hpwhite.com/services/ballistics-testing/

      and they have no legal standing to deny a gun maker releasing the gun to market. They just perform testing, and then give whomever paid for the testing the results. In the UK, before any gun maker can sell a gun, they must get it proofed. Any gunsmith who does work that alters a barrel, chamber, action, etc in a “significant” way needs to get the gun re-proofed before it goes back to the owner.

      What we have in the US market is a concept of “overbuild the gun for the standard load.” The gun makers overbuild the gun so that failure with standard loads is basically unheard of. This results in things like US-made shotguns having barrel wall thicknesses of .040 (or thereabouts) whereas Brit shotguns might have a much thinner wall thickness of, oh, 0.025 (or even less) in a 12ga shotgun. The Brits know they can get away with this, because EVERY set of shotgun barrels is proofed before it is built into an actual gun (what is called a “provisional proof”), then the final gun is proofed again. Before the gun goes to the customer, they know that the gun will survive a hefty over-pressure load (eg, 16K+ PSI vs. 9K PSI expected in normal 12ga loads).

      I’m just using shotguns as an example; rifles and handguns must be proofed as well.

      Back to the US:

      SAAMI, who is an industry co-operative group, specifies what the “standard loads” are, and they’ve done pressure testing to know what the expected “maximum average pressure” of those “standard loads” are. From this, the gun makers over-build a gun to survive the MAP for the load in question.

      Then the gun makers and SAAMI point in a circular fashion:

      Owner: “How hot a load can I put into the gun?”
      Gun maker: “Go ask SAAMI what the MAP’s are…”
      Owner to SAMMI: “What’s the maximum load I can put in this gun?”
      SAAMI: “We don’t do that. We spec ‘standard loads.’ If you want to know about hot loads, go ask the gun maker.”
      Gun maker: “Did you ask SAAMI? They have the specifications on loads in this caliber.”
      Gun owner: “WTF? Won’t one of you give me a straight answer?”
      Gun maker: “Go ask SAAMI.”
      SAAMI: “We don’t build the guns, we don’t do over-pressure testing of guns. Go ask the gun maker.”

      This prevents either the gun company or SAAMI from taking on legal liabilities when they offer any opinion on “how hot a load is too hot?” They won’t offer you any advice. You’ll have to work it out for yourself.

    • I’m not sure about your Taurus Judge revolver, but Ruger and Freedom Arms have been known to handle 45 Colt + P all day long. A 45 Colt + P can also be dropped into a .454 Casull or .460 S & W chamber in good operating condition without any issues if you keep the chambers clean. Buffalo Bore makes a variety of .45 Colt + P suitable for beer defense, but I’ve only shot those loads through .454 and .460 revolvers. You are welcome to email Tim Sundles of Buffalo Bore and ask his opinion. You could also see if be would give you the max pressure ratings of the various loads.

      Personally, I wouldn’t hot load a Taurus Judge revolver unless the SHTF. High pressure .45 Colts are the domain of the overbuilt Rugers, Freedom Arms, (Maybe Dan Wesson), .454, and .460 chambers. YMMV.

  13. I wish someone would do one of these for apartment-dwellers. Some of these things are beyond our control (like shrubbery and windows). I wonder what type of alarm systems are available that wouldn’t cost me my security deposit if I installed them?

  14. Each linked these forms of of shelter are frequently known for the particular advantages and as a consequence disadvantages, which mostly is dependent up on an residents as their would like. So specifically can these types of a place to stay provide you?

  15. I have a lab/beagle mix and he is one of the best early warning devices I have ever had. His low pitched bark and growl will scare any one away from my doors and windows.

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